Throttle completely stuck

[tuning-forks]

Not sure which type of liquid wrench you used, but suggest a follow up with a real lubricant before you close it all up.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not sure which type of liquid wrench you used, but suggest a follow up with a real lubricant before you close it all up.

Not sure what a "real lubricant" is...

Re LW, what I use with very good results:
https://www.liquidwrench.com/product/penetrating-oil/

Trying to get some 30 weight engine oil, once loosened up would be better yet but the TB's have to come off to
angle /gravity) oil into the bores..

I doubt those shafts, from the factory are even lubricated from the factory when new...


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[Gary in NJ]

My guess is something made its way into one of the 8 passageways where the shaft goes through the throttle bodies and is now causing resistance to movement. The oil should flush the FOD clean.

I’d let it sit a few days and exercise it again to confirm the problem is gone before final reassembly.

 

[grcamna7]

My guess is something made its way into one of the 8 passageways where the shaft goes through the throttle bodies and is now causing resistance to movement. The oil should flush the FOD clean.

I’d let it sit a few days and exercise it again to confirm the problem is gone before final reassembly.

There may be something binding between the Throttle body butterfly shafts,etc.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From post #20:

Quote: "While not perfect they’re snapping back pretty good."


Two TB's each are connected by one shaft. In the middle there's an adjuster (with spring)
so binding, coming all of a sudden is highly un-likely. It's not one long shaft...

***Basic's first***, clean / lube, etc... Neglect has no time table..

If that doesn't work, there's an issue elsewhere.
It seems the cleaning / lube has indeed helped significantly.

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[grahammarsden]

Not sure what a "real lubricant" is...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand, penetrating oils such as PB Blaster/ Liquid Wrench/ GT 85/ WD40/ Plusgas et al are all low viscosity, intended to free up stuck parts, dissolve rust and get things moving again, but they're not designed for long term lubrication.

Certainly whenever I've used them for a job, I will then use regular oil/ silicone/ lithium grease etc (depending on what the part is) to keep it in good condition thereafter.

 

[tuning-forks]

Yes, that's what I meant, something that is intended primarily as a lubricant rather than a penetrant.
But I understand Townsends point that it may not be practical to apply 'in situ'.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand, penetrating oils such as PB Blaster/ Liquid Wrench/ GT 85/ WD40/ Plusgas et al are all low viscosity, intended to free up stuck parts, dissolve rust and get things moving again, but they're not designed for long term lubrication.

Certainly whenever I've used them for a job, I will then use regular oil/ silicone/ lithium grease etc (depending on what the part is) to keep it in good condition thereafter.

I'm familiar with PB and LW, (WD40 is about useless in this case), and I'm not familiar at all with the other.

For what their made for, low viscosity, dissolve rust, PENETRATE, is what (IMO) is what was needed initially to get things moving again. Once moving normally, some lube is fine, too much will attract dust/dirt, etc so too much, down the road, may not be good..

Getting regular oil, lithium grease, etc into seized parts initially is usually very difficult.

Agreed as well (and earlier stated), regular oil (or similar) for long term lubrication in preferred.


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[Gary in NJ]

WD-40 is a cleaner. While it has oil in mixture, lubrication is not its primary purpose.

 

[Motogiro]

We discovered when using WD40 on router bit bearings, they would fail prematurely. The router rpm are in the 20,000 rpm area but because of WD40's properties it would actually harm the bearing because of gumming. WD40 works really well for it's intended purposes. WD stands for water displacement. It works really well with bonding to other gummy/fatty chain stuff making those gums more soluble at time of application. This allows for an opportunity of washing away the gum and then appropriate lubrication.
There has been talk of it harming O rings on chains but I think you'd have to soak those O rings in it. I use kerosene for chain cleaning.
Penetration is key in most lubrication. When something has rust that blocks lubrication you want a penetrating oil to get where other lube cant get to. In a pinch brake fluid works as a penetrating oil. Just don't get it on painted products, plastics or rubber. I use silicone base lubes. PB Blaster and WD40 lubes have these type lubes that work great. I like Tri-flow!

Here's some data: https://tchristy.com/wp-content/pdf/specsheets/15029SS.pdf

 

[grcamna7]

I've found the Motion Pro(and others)cable luber,which clamps onto the end of each cable is a good invention,and looks to allow 'some' lube to get into the cables;personally,I've experienced more pressure is lost where it connects to the end of the cable and the pressure isn't enough to really flush the cable good.
I hope someone invents a much better sealed tool to keep the aerosol lube from leaking out,at the connection.

I have personally,very lightly clamped the large end of the inner wire of my cables into my clamp-on bench vise in my Apt. so the cable is vertical;I then very lightly drip 30wt oil from my oil squirt can onto the inner cable wire,then work the outer cable back and forth for about 10 mins at a time.
I continue doing this over the course of 24hrs.+,on & off until I feel there's enough oil down into the cable;then I let the cable sit vertical like that for another 8 hrs.
I feel this gives them the best I can do to get them working smoother.