Sprocket

[outasight20]

Sorry if this has already been mentioned.

Just to get everyone on the same page, changing sprockets will not change the RPM at a chosen indicated speed. THE SPEED AND RPM ARE PERMANENTLY TIED TOGETHER. The speedo reads off the transmission output shaft, not the rear wheel. You could put a +100 rear sprocket and it will still say 5500 RPM at 65 MPH, but your actual speed would be way lower.

The only thing that changing sprockets does is change your ACTUAL speed at a given RPM. So please everyone stop asking if your RPM's changed when changing gearing around. Unless you have a speedohealer and adjust it every time you change your gears around, the indicated speed is always the same for a given RPM in a given gear.

 

[outasight20]

Has anyone tried the 17 tooth?

I run a 17T front and the speedo is pretty spot on (within 1-2% at all speeds). The increased MPG's are nice too and acceleration seems the same once you get the thing moving from a stop. Only time I wish I had the stock or 15T sprocket is when riding two up and starting from a stop on an uphill.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ok so my brain is way too frazzled to take in all the above math at the moment so let me just say thank you for throwing it up there.

And a question for the experienced folk: I'm currently running a stock setup (about to change since it's worn down) and have been experiencing inexplicably poor mileage no matter how hard or easy I run the bike.....it seems from reading the above, that there is a range of inaccuracy built into the speedos, (especially on older bikes?) - so, assuming that I might have been running with a slightly higher than average error (i.e. going slower than my speedo thought) would that affect my mileage negatively (or at least the fuel consumption calculated based on intake of gas and the odo)?
I.e. would the odo think I'd gone a shorter distance than in reality because the speedo thought I was going faster than in reality?

danieljfield - maybe try intobikes.co.uk - I just got an AFAM 15/46 530 setup from there and was very happy with them, though you still pay freight unless you spend quite a bit of money...

If your mileage is that bad, I'd like to mention a couple of things to look at:

-Check your TPS, In the tech section, its posted how to check it.
-Check / adjust your throttle body sync. It will affect your performance and mileage.
mileage. While your there, clean/replace the air filter.
-Check for excessive drag from your brakes (that their retracting fully). A quick ride, stop with the rear and touch the front rotors they should be cool- cold. If their hot and you DIDN'T APPLY THEM, their dragging and likely the seal need replacing.

Mostly around town, mostly taking it easy, (some occasional high RPM runs) I get about 45-46 MPG (US) on regular. Other have posted lower, others have posted higher, especially on the highway...

BTW, the best, accurate way to check your mileage is using a GPS and your actual fuel usage...

 

[hk_fz6_05]

thanks

TPS is done.
Throttle body sync I assume was done at the last major service not so long ago by authorized dealer (correct me if I'm wrong)

I'll remember to check the brakes when I get it back out of storage :sigh: but I haven't felt much in the way of drag...

I actually went by my local dealership, who are decent folk and asked and they were like "oh but you know it's a powerful bike" - yes I know that, but no reason my mileage should be lower than other bikes of the same kind.....

hmm well thanks again

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

thanks

TPS is done.
Throttle body sync I assume was done at the last major service not so long ago by authorized dealer (correct me if I'm wrong)

I'll remember to check the brakes when I get it back out of storage :sigh: but I haven't felt much in the way of drag...

I actually went by my local dealership, who are decent folk and asked and they were like "oh but you know it's a powerful bike" - yes I know that, but no reason my mileage should be lower than other bikes of the same kind.....

hmm well thanks again

My local authorized Yamaha dealer (when I had some issues with my FJR) insisted on doing a throttle sync before warranty would kick in. $125 later and a sync the problem was still there.

I later purchased a Carbmate sync tool ( http://www.carbtune.com/ ) and checked their work. Like the FZ, the FJR is synced with air screws, NOT THE BUTTERFLY adjuster screws. Yamaha, from the factory, puts a small mark of white paint on the springs for the butterfly (which SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN TOUCHED).

Of course I found one of those screws adjusted approx 1/4 turn!!! A big NO NO per the manual. Now this is a friggin YAMAHA SHOP that screwed it up. I put the screw back to its painted position and re-set the sync correctly using the air screws (like the FZ) but on each throttle body.

Your paying top dollor for "professional repairs", sh.....!

Yamaha also only sync's at idle. A more precise way is to check at 4K RPM's TOO and adjust accordingly.

IMO, re brake drag, if you can't get one rotation, by hand, "freespin" of the front tire, their likely dragging and the seals need replacement. Yamaha recommends replacing these seals EVERY TWO YEARS. Since I rebuilt mine, it went from 3/4 a rotation to over 4 rotations-same force...

 

[hk_fz6_05]

My local authorized Yamaha dealer (when I had some issues with my FJR) insisted on doing a throttle sync before warranty would kick in. $125 later and a sync the problem was still there.

I later purchased a Carbmate sync tool ( www.carbtune.com ) and checked their work. Like the FZ, the FJR is synced with air screws, NOT THE BUTTERFLY adjuster screws. Yamaha, from the factory, puts a small mark of white paint on the springs for the butterfly (which SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN TOUCHED).

Of course I found one of those screws adjusted approx 1/4 turn!!! A big NO NO per the manual. Now this is a friggin YAMAHA SHOP that screwed it up. I put the screw back to its painted position and re-set the sync correctly using the air screws (like the FZ) but on each throttle body.

Your paying top dollor for "professional repairs", sh.....!

Yamaha also only sync's at idle. A more precise way is to check at 4K RPM's TOO and adjust accordingly.

IMO, re brake drag, if you can't get one rotation, by hand, "freespin" of the front tire, their likely dragging and the seals need replacement. Yamaha recommends replacing these seals EVERY TWO YEARS. Since I rebuilt mine, it went from 3/4 a rotation to over 4 rotations-same force...

seriously....dude! Sometimes I can't believe the S... :spank:
Ok, well I'll certainly have to check that out. And sounds like rehashing the brakes probably wouldn't hurt from what you tell me....(sooo much maintenance to go on my bike this season and it's just sitting there 1000 miles away - arhg!)

Oh yeah does the same apply for the rears?

thanks a million!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

seriously....dude! Sometimes I can't believe the S... :spank:
Ok, well I'll certainly have to check that out. And sounds like rehashing the brakes probably wouldn't hurt from what you tell me....(sooo much maintenance to go on my bike this season and it's just sitting there 1000 miles away - arhg!)

Oh yeah does the same apply for the rears?

thanks a million!

No problem..

Yamaha recommends the same for the rear brakes (which is much simpler, one pistion, not eight)...

I use the fronts mostly, I've never had the rear apart, nor rebuilt, at least not yet. Flushed and bleed them thou. My old 04 FJR was original in the rear also, even after 7 years.

I've read others having the rear brake drag, warp the rotor and need to re-seal but that hasn't been my experiance.

Again, go for a ride, stop with the front brakes only and feel the rear rotor quickly before it cools down(especially if its cold outside) , it SHOULD BE COOL/ambient temperature for the most part. If the rotor is hot or very warm, the pads are dragging and either need cleaning or if over two years since new seals, its likely re-seal time... I got the front seals on-line for $80, at my local guy, they were $120.

The rear, single piston, should be considerably cheaper for the oil and dust seal.

If your halfways mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself and save a bunch of $. IMO, I like using a commercial grade (aluminum, not plastic) Mityvac for bleeding brakes. Even with that investment, it'd be cheaper to do it yourself. :thumbup:

 

[hk_fz6_05]

ok so I'll have to do the lot. It's just about two years since I got the bike and I'm not real sure the previous owner who mostly had her sitting in a garage replaced the seals. At least doing the back isn't that much extra work and I already have some know how from putting in the steel brakelines. some solid days of work ahead of me - front and rear springs, sprockets and chains and now seals and brake maintenance!

(good thing I'll be between jobs for a while :BLAA: )

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ok so I'll have to do the lot. It's just about two years since I got the bike and I'm not real sure the previous owner who mostly had her sitting in a garage replaced the seals. At least doing the back isn't that much extra work and I already have some know how from putting in the steel brakelines. some solid days of work ahead of me - front and rear springs, sprockets and chains and now seals and brake maintenance!

(good thing I'll be between jobs for a while :BLAA: )

If you have an air compressor (at least for the fronts) and can bleed the system, you definitly can do the fronts yourself. I fount it takes longer to fully bleed out the fronts than to rebuild the calipers.

I forgot to mention, the 04-06 front calipers are TWO PISTONS per caliper, the 07-09 is FOUR PISTONS per caliper so its a bit easier and cheaper for the earlier models (you likely can get by without an air compressor for the early models, just use hydralic pressure to push ALL the pistons OUT before one pops out fully and you loose pressure).


Something else easy (maintainance wise) to check/maintain is the slider bolts for the brakes. (the fronts for 04-06 have them up front, the 07 thru 09, NO as it has the mentioned FOUR pistons and don't need the slider bolts).

They tend to gum up and stick over time not allowing the brake to center itself over the rotor. Removing the bolts, cleaning both the bolts and innerds and re-greasing with BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE will help. It won't fling off and holds up to hot temperatures.. You'll get nice even wear on the pads too.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Caliper-Brush-Top-Bottle/dp/B000HBNV6W]Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 8 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

[Xavias]

Back on the topic (sort of) Over this winter, I'm planning on replacing my sprockets/chain!

My current plan is to go +0/+2, and looking at the calculator that was posted, it looks to be about a 400RPM difference at 75mph in 6th gear. I can easily deal with that.

Over the winter, however, I have done/will do the following:
Keep in mind, I bought my bike with 14,000 miles and it now has just shy of 28,000 miles
Regular air filter (dirty as h***) -> K&N Air Filter
Old spark plugs (showed the bike was running really rich, likely due to air filter) -> NGK Iridium spark plugs
Original stock sprockets -> +0/+2 sprokets (Vortex sprockets, I believe)
Original Stock Chain -> 520 chain (can't remember brand)
New front tire (needs to be mounted, waiting until spring to drive it to the dealer as the caliper bolt is stripped and they have a new one there for me.)
Rear tire (actually did that one ~2k miles before putting up for the winter)

Basically, I don't really know what to expect... I'm thinking she'll behave like an entirely new bike. After changing spark plugs and air filter, she revved like a whole new bike! (It was an eerie feeling, actually...)

But the info here was amazing! You guys are definitely the best community on the internet!