Speeding/whirring sound

[Kingwu]

When I pick up speed on my 07 FZ6, it starts to make a "whirrrrr" noise. I'll hit like 60 in third gear and it would start with the noise. I usually hear it up front but idk if it's actually coming from up front with my helmet and **** on. Is that normal?

Also, does anyone know the proper speed ranges for gears? I usually go from 1st to 2nd almost instantly when I hit the street. Usually around the 15-20 mph. Then 2nd to 3rd at 40-45. That's a rough estimate; i'm not always looking down at it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The chain likes to be clean, WELL LUBED and adjusted correctly (about 2" slack).

My normal, taking it easy, shift point is about 4,000 RPM's, getting into traffic higher..

The recommended speeds are in the owners manual, but I wouldn't shift less than 3,000 minimum... Once warmed up fully, your upper limit is 14,000K


There's usually all kinds of goo up under the front sprocket cover too. It can be cleaned by removing the three allan head bolts. Just DON'T pinch the wires at the rear of the stator putting the cover back on.

 

[Kingwu]

The chain likes to be clean, WELL LUBED and adjusted correctly (about 2" slack).

My normal, taking it easy, shift point is about 4,000 RPM's, getting into traffic higher..

The recommended speeds are in the owners manual, but I wouldn't shift less than 3,000 minimum... Once warmed up fully, your upper limit is 14,000K


There's usually all kinds of goo up under the front sprocket cover too. It can be cleaned by removing the three allan head bolts. Just DON'T pinch the wires at the rear of the stator putting the cover back on.

I always shift at like 6-8 when i'm picking up speed.

But i'll take a look at all that, thanks.

 

[Kingwu]

The recommended shift points during acceleration and deceleration are shown in the table below. Shift up points: 1st
2nd: 30 km/h (19 mi/h) 2nd 3rd: 45 km/h (28 mi/h) 3rd 4th: 60 km/h (37 mi/h) 4th 5th: 75 km/h (47 mi/h) 5th 6th: 90 km/h (56 mi/h)
Shift down points: 6th
5th: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 5th 4th: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 4th 3rd: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 3rd 2nd: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 2nd 1st: -- 5 To start out and accelerate 1.

WHAT... could that be the reason my gas bars goes down quick? Usually when i'm cruising to and from work, i'm in 3rd gear goin 45-50, RPM's are up at like 6 the whole time...

I should be in 5th gear?! :spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The recommended shift points during acceleration and deceleration are shown in the table below. Shift up points: 1st
2nd: 30 km/h (19 mi/h) 2nd 3rd: 45 km/h (28 mi/h) 3rd 4th: 60 km/h (37 mi/h) 4th 5th: 75 km/h (47 mi/h) 5th 6th: 90 km/h (56 mi/h)
Shift down points: 6th
5th: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 5th 4th: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 4th 3rd: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 3rd 2nd: 25 km/h (15.5 mi/h) 2nd 1st: -- 5 To start out and accelerate 1.

WHAT... could that be the reason my gas bars goes down quick? Usually when i'm cruising to and from work, i'm in 3rd gear goin 45-50, RPM's are up at like 6 the whole time...

I should be in 5th gear?! :spank:

I'm in 6th gear at 50MPH...


My bikes "sweet spot", around town is about 4,000. 48 MPH exactly in 6th gear (per GPS/Speedohealer)

With that, I see about 48 MPG.

My engine pulls fine, no lugging etc (just me riding) at 4k. The more weight, the more RPM's..

Obviously, you can shift higher or lower, its been discussed in detail before.

 

[Kingwu]

I'm in 6th gear at 50MPH...


My bikes "sweet spot", around town is about 4,000. 48 MPH exactly in 6th gear (per GPS/Speedohealer)

With that, I see about 48 MPG.

My engine pulls fine, no lugging etc (just me riding) at 4k. The more weight, the more RPM's..

Obviously, you can shift higher or lower, its been discussed in detail before.

That is good to know, thanks for shedding some light on that. I been doin it wrong this whole time lol. If I kept this up I would of been at the gas station every week :spank:.

On my ride home from work today I will implement this! :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's how I ride, others like to RED line it everytime out. Ride how your comfy:thumbup:

 

[Motogiro]

As Scott said the chain likes to be cleaned, lubed and kept at proper slack. Most all dealerships will change the rear tire and set slack and alignment incorrectly so if your not doing the work you should learn the process and commit to doing it yourself or find someone you trust. You can get whir from a chain that is entering and exiting the sprocket at an angle. This is caused by misalignment. I use a tool that sights down the chain because the important concept is the chain entering/exiting the sprockets straight forward. If this is straight your wheel should be straight unless you have something wrong with the wheel to sprocket clearances.

Chain and sprocket wear are also sources of whirring noise and if the slack and alignment are good on a clean, lubed chain slight whir is not always something amiss.

I had a member here bring a bike to me, I think I was doing a throttle body adjustment. He had an additional complaint that it wouldn't shift right and was making lots of noise. Without even riding it I asked was anything done previous and he said, just the new rear tire. It made me very angry that someone would do this to a bike. The chain was so taught I was surprised the chain hadn't broken or taken out a bearing. He even asked the tire guy about why it was so tight and the tire guy told him is was fine and that the chain would stretch.

There is a minimal amount of break-in with new chains and sprockets but there is no specification for new chain and sprocket slack setting. Work on a bike should be done based on science and not on someone spitting in their hand and slapping the spit to see which way it goes to come up with a setting. This is what the norm seems to be today when it comes to doing your wheel alignment and chain slack. :spank:

It doesn't matter why it happens. It matters that you are aware that it does happen and take responsibility in being proactive in yourself as a rider.

I know that all of us that ride are not wrenchers but I believe we should all learn the minimal concepts of how the wheels turn and how the bike stops.

Noises on a motorcycle are not like noises on a car. When you hear it, find out what it is.

Be aware and present in the moment when checking your bike.

Maintenance and specifications are important and will add to a great experience riding. :rockon:

 

[Kingwu]

As Scott said the chain likes to be cleaned, lubed and kept at proper slack. Most all dealerships will change the rear tire and set slack and alignment incorrectly so if your not doing the work you should learn the process and commit to doing it yourself or find someone you trust. You can get whir from a chain that is entering and exiting the sprocket at an angle. This is caused by misalignment. I use a tool that sights down the chain because the important concept is the chain entering/exiting the sprockets straight forward. If this is straight your wheel should be straight unless you have something wrong with the wheel to sprocket clearances.

Chain and sprocket wear are also sources of whirring noise and if the slack and alignment are good on a clean, lubed chain slight whir is not always something amiss.

I had a member here bring a bike to me, I think I was doing a throttle body adjustment. He had an additional complaint that it wouldn't shift right and was making lots of noise. Without even riding it I asked was anything done previous and he said, just the new rear tire. It made me very angry that someone would do this to a bike. The chain was so taught I was surprised the chain hadn't broken or taken out a bearing. He even asked the tire guy about why it was so tight and the tire guy told him is was fine and that the chain would stretch.

There is a minimal amount of break-in with new chains and sprockets but there is no specification for new chain and sprocket slack setting. Work on a bike should be done based on science and not on someone spitting in their hand and slapping the spit to see which way it goes to come up with a setting. This is what the norm seems to be today when it comes to doing your wheel alignment and chain slack. :spank:

It doesn't matter why it happens. It matters that you are aware that it does happen and take responsibility in being proactive in yourself as a rider.

I know that all of us that ride are not wrenchers but I believe we should all learn the minimal concepts of how the wheels turn and how the bike stops.

Noises on a motorcycle are not like noises on a car. When you hear it, find out what it is.

Be aware and present in the moment when checking your bike.

Maintenance and specifications are important and will add to a great experience riding. :rockon:

Now, would you be able to tell from looking at it straight-on, like a picture or would you have to do what Townsend said and remove the allen heads bolts off to see. I'm gonna take a look when I get home from from the ride to work.

This isn't a constant whirring sound; it only "whirrs" when I hit like 60 in 3rd, or something high in 2nd.

But that's good to know, i'll keep that in mind if I do bring it into a shop. (I'm still a newbie:thumbup

 

[Kingwu]

That's how I ride, others like to RED line it everytime out. Ride how your comfy:thumbup:

Comfy to me is saving money on gas so I am going to ride like you lol :thumbup:

 

[FZ09Bandit]

That's how I ride, others like to RED line it everytime out. Ride how your comfy:thumbup:

Whateva, whateva, I du what I want!

 

[Motogiro]

Now, would you be able to tell from looking at it straight-on, like a picture or would you have to do what Townsend said and remove the allen heads bolts off to see. I'm gonna take a look when I get home from from the ride to work.

This isn't a constant whirring sound; it only "whirrs" when I hit like 60 in 3rd, or something high in 2nd.

But that's good to know, i'll keep that in mind if I do bring it into a shop. (I'm still a newbie:thumbup

No problem being new to something!
Your sound might be more prevalent when there is sympathetic resonance at specific frequencies. I'm thinking there is nothing overtly wrong with your bike. I've had this exact scenario with my bikes at different times. I do check to make sure the bike is sound and maintained.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Whateva, whateva, I du what I want!

So do I! :spank: