R6 forks or recycling?

[doc_simple]

Hey all,

After reading the joys of the R6 fork mod I started searching for some forks in my extremely limited price range. I ended up buying some scratch and dent stuff. To say I got it cheap does not express how little they cost. Now the bad part, I bought one set of forks with damage on the driver side and a damaged fork that has no damage on the part I need to replace. I am posting the pictures of them that I have now and I will post more when I get them but I was hoping I could get some *useful* advice

I paid $65 for the forks and a new kit with the axle and bolt, thats delivered to my house. Not to shabby. I was thinking that with the amount spent on these some new springs and oil would be a certainty, and I was thinking of doing the seals. However I read you need a special, expensive tool to press the seals in. Was wondering if there is a cheapo way to get that done. And finally, how can I check if they are bent. Other than the obvious "I looked at them and they seem straight" which is what the shop I am buying them from told me. So here's the pics I currently have.

Thses are the pair I hope to use, the other one (not part of this set) is damaged but the top part is good and should replace the road rashed knob.... thingy....part?

So, whats your 2c?


Oh, BTW, hers a link to another sale they have for the axle/bolt if anone is looking for one, they seem like pretty good guys when I talked with them on the phone.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMA...emQQcategoryZ35601QQihZ026QQitemZ390030225234

 

[mstewar1]

I could be way off here, so just take this as a suggestion.

Since the lowers are cast, I really doubt that they could get bent and still be intact. So as long as there are no holes in the lowers, I assume them to be straight. As for the uppers, I would imagine that you could check them for straightness with a straight-edge of some sort. Or check them on a known-to-be-flat surface -- sorta like how you might check the straightness of a pool cue by rolling it on the table.

If push came to shove, perhaps you could take just the lowers and your new seals to a local shop and have them press them in. Cheaper than buying a specialized tool that you're not likely to use for quite some time.

 

[Hellgate]

Get a straight edge and check the straightness of the fork. I think Michael is correct and the slider is probably fine. As long as the preload area isn't leaking oil you'll be fine.

 

[Fred]

A pane of glass makes a good flat surface to check the straightness of the forks.

Generally it's the tubes that bend, not the lowers.

Once you've verified that you have two good fork tubes, take the forks to a qualified mechanic, explain that you want the good parts put together to make one good set of forks, and that you want new oil and seals. Leave it to the pros.

If you have bent fork tubes, check out Frank's Forking. They make fork tubes to fit almost any bike out there. I've gotten replacements from them before and was quite pleased with the result. Since they just stock various size tube blanks and machine them to meet your order, they can even make short forks, long forks, etc.

 

[doc_simple]

sounds pretty doable.

Fred, I dont let the "professionals" work on any of my vehicles unless I truly have no choice. In my income bracket the hacks I can afford usually make it worse. Also I have plenty of air tools, ect. to do most jobs myself.
However Franks forking sounds like it may be the ticket to replace the bent tube.

I am hoping with new springs/oil I can keep the toal under $200, might actuall work out that way too.

 

[mstewar1]

Have you gotten a set of r6 brakes? I don't mean to be the spoiler but from what I understand, our fz6 brakes won't work.

 

[Fred]

The FZ6 brakes will bolt right on. You just need spacers (washers actually) between the calipers and the fork legs to position them correctly.

 

[doc_simple]

and i have an 07, so they should work fine. I think the R6 brakes might be better than mine but i did not get a set with these forks. Later down the road I might give a pair a try.

 

[doc_simple]

*update*

The forks arrived today and I have started trying to follow in RyanK's footsteps by fabbing some fender mounts. The mounts are going to be tough but I found a machine shop in the science building basement where I go to school.

Got the blocks cut today and I will be measuring them before going any further to make sure they are the right size.

As for the forks, I am pretty amazed. They all seem straight although with a bit of rash on them. I was hoping someone could advise on what to do next with them. I was thinking about doing the seals but I can see no signs of leaking anywhere. I have to trade out the top adjustable pieces which I am guessing are attached to something inside. I have also read that they might shoot off from the springs inside so I need to watch for that. Since I have to pull one off I was going to go ahead and replace the oil inside.

Does this seem reasonable? Am I shorting myself by not doing a complete rebuild? Any words of wisdom on this would help alot.

Thanks

 

[doc_simple]

And a couple more pictures and questions. I ordered the axle and nut from the same folks I got the forks from. Got WAY more than I expected. I think they sent me every nut and bolt from a trashed r6. Are these even the right parts? I think I have the axle, but not the right nut.

Here are the pics I have.

 

[Hellgate]

Honestly Doc, if they aren't leaking I just put them on. Can you hear the oil inside of them? If so you're probably fine.

 

[The Toecutter]

And a couple more pictures and questions. I ordered the axle and nut from the same folks I got the forks from. Got WAY more than I expected. I think they sent me every nut and bolt from a trashed r6. Are these even the right parts? I think I have the axle, but not the right nut.

Here are the pics I have.

kinda remind's me of an old saying about some can of worm's or something?......LOL.....that looks like fun!!!!!!opcorn:

 

[doc_simple]

I can hear the oil. I only have to change teh tops? Thats too friggen sweet. All I have to do is fab the adaptors and I can have new (somewhat) forks. I'm going to get a beer and celebrate. :cheer:

 

[RyanK]

Yeah, I'd just bolt them up too. Yeah, it would be good to do the overhaul, but if you can't afford it, and they dont' seem to be leaking, I'd say your probably OK. Besides, if they start leaking you can just pull them off again...It's not that much work...

BTW, the "nut" for the front axle on an R6S is actually a bolt. I think the 2nd one from the top in your 5th picture (it looks black) is the one.

 

[doc_simple]

I saw that one and was wondering about that. I figured I would match up what I take off with the can o' worms. Kinda bummed out, I have to do a suspension/brake overhaul on my car this weekend, and would much rather be changing forks. Of course I am waiting on that bit and tap from Mcmasters so i dont have much choice unless I got the zip tie route temporarily.

Jobs not done yet but thanks Hellgate for the pointers and a big thank you to Ryan for advising on the adapters. Brought it into the realm of possibility.

Yeah, I'd just bolt them up too. Yeah, it would be good to do the overhaul, but if you can't afford it, and they dont' seem to be leaking, I'd say your probably OK. Besides, if they start leaking you can just pull them off again...It's not that much work...

BTW, the "nut" for the front axle on an R6S is actually a bolt. I think the 2nd one from the top in your 5th picture (it looks black) is the one.

 

[doc_simple]

fnally got the forks on. I changed the oil, after looking at a million posts about it I decided to go with5 weight and to overfill a little bit. It calls for you to fill to 92 mm from the top and i took both sides to 85.5 mm. About an extra 10 ml of oil.

Also, I'm not sure if it came out in the pics but i set the forks about 1/4 inch (from top of tube not insert) which many posts have indicated is right for the bikes weight/geometry.

I had a major issue in that the company i got the parts form sent me the axle form an 05 and the forks from an o3-04. The axle did not work but they included a bunch of extra parts one of which was a nut that matched the original axle. It sticks out a ways and with the nut works for the wheel. ***I THINK IT DOES*** If anyone has info that I may be committing suicide please let me know. I am going riding with h20boy tomorrow and dont want my wheel to fall off. I plan on getting the wight axle ASAP but I want to ride tomorrow and it seems good. That being said I rode the bike a little in my neighborhood and it felt GREAT. No wobble no bounce, NO BRAKE DIVE. Sorry to keep yelling but its pretty awesome.

My final difference from whats been posted elsewhere (and many thanks to those who gave such great info) is that I was able to mount the fender on the same screws on the rear. I have used the old standard of zip ties on the front till I can fab brackets but it looks like I will only need to make front mounts. I made the same cuts as needed for RyanK's brackets and it sort of just fell into place.

Please let me know if this looks suspect to you. It feels good on my short test run, but I defer to those who have actual motorcycle knowledge.

For anyone thinking of doing this, do it. It's really easy, especially if you have the right parts. Again, it's easy because the hard stuff has already been figured out for us.

 

[RyanK]

as long as the wheel's clamped tight you should be fine. Hard to tell from your pics though.

I would adjust that front zip tie. It looks like it could slip off the back side of the fender & get loose on ya, and you don't want that!!!

 

[doc_simple]

well, about 250 miles later the tires still on. We hit high speed straights, mucho twisties and some miserable cold and rain. Felt pretty awesome, cornering is better too.

I will reset the zips this weekend, thanks for the input Ryan.