Question about heated gear and amp draw

[Clovis]

I've searched on the forums and I think I'll be okay but I just wanted to make sure.

I've had both of my headlights with replaced with HID. I changed the wiring to leave 1 headlight on (as stock) and the 2nd HID comes on when I flick the highbeam. Both HIDs are the same at 6000.

I recently picked up a set of Firstgear Heated Gloves (Carbonfiber).

It states they produce 15 watts of heat @ 12.8 volts per glove.

I haven't picked up the troller yet so I haven't had a chance to test them out.

I'd also like to get a firstgear heated jacket liner. It comes in two versions, 65watts and 90watts. I'd prefer to get the 90 watt version but I'm not sure if the FZ6 (2007) has enough spare power.

I know the HIDs have a lower draw then the stock halogens but I don't know by how much. If I'm not driving at night I'm just running 1 headlight. I'll throw the second one on if I ride at night.

I also have two 12v power adapters installed that I use to charge my iphone (since it's my primary GPS). I sometimes use the 2nd 12v power to charge my Scala rider Q2 headset (I have 2 so I take both).

Is there going to be enough power to run the gloves and a 90watt jacket liner without draining the battery or should I just go with the 65watt liner?

Thanks!

Clovis

 

[ChevyFazer]

You should be fine as long as your not always using the outlets. I have the gerbings t5 gloves which use 27w and a first gear 90w jacket with a gerbings dual portable controller. I've been runnin my gear wide open almost every morning now for a month straight. I can't remember the exact miles I ride but every morning it's the same, gear on WFO leave house, stop by racetrack about 4 miles from my house, leave racetrack with gear WFO to my second stop about 12m away, then leave second stop with gear WFO until I get to work about another 12 miles away. I know it's probably better in the long run if I was to turn my gear off a little bit before i make a stop that the bike will get shut off but, to be honest I always remember to turn it off after I turn the bike off. (knocking on wood) so far after about 2 solid months of doing this every morning, I have had 0 battery issues, I can't remember the exact output of the 6 but, I also have hid headlamps "completely different from your setup though" with the headlamp I have, and I also added two extra led running lamps, and have led front signals. I don't have a clue what kind of draw all my lights have but I can't imagine it being even close to stock since everything is led except the rear brake lamp.

 

[Pseudo-Fed]

Similar Gear left me stranded on my FIRST 2009 FZ6. Here are my experiences:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...eter-tested-gerbings-heated-gear-results.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...rgeguard-cg-25-voltmeter-ammeter-install.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...out-battery-voltage-amp-draw-heated-gear.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/39982-voltmeter.html

 

[Motogiro]

You should be fine as long as your not always using the outlets. I have the gerbings t5 gloves which use 27w and a first gear 90w jacket with a gerbings dual portable controller. I've been runnin my gear wide open almost every morning now for a month straight. I can't remember the exact miles I ride but every morning it's the same, gear on WFO leave house, stop by racetrack about 4 miles from my house, leave racetrack with gear WFO to my second stop about 12m away, then leave second stop with gear WFO until I get to work about another 12 miles away. I know it's probably better in the long run if I was to turn my gear off a little bit before i make a stop that the bike will get shut off but, to be honest I always remember to turn it off after I turn the bike off. (knocking on wood) so far after about 2 solid months of doing this every morning, I have had 0 battery issues, I can't remember the exact output of the 6 but, I also have hid headlamps "completely different from your setup though" with the headlamp I have, and I also added two extra led running lamps, and have led front signals. I don't have a clue what kind of draw all my lights have but I can't imagine it being even close to stock since everything is led except the rear brake lamp.

With your HIDs and LEDs you'll be using less current and have a few more watts towards your gear.

 

[ChevyFazer]

Yup that was the idea. I don't have a clue how much power I'm using compared to stock but obviously I still have some to spare or I think I would have killed my battery by now lol. If my bike idles for a while with my gear plugged in I can see my lights dim the thinnest bit when the controller is pulsing but other then that I havent noticed any problems with running the gear all the time.

 

[Downs]

I use a Tourmaster Synery jacket with Gerbrings gloves and never had any problems with the stock charging system.

According to the Service Manual for the 07 the charging system puts out 310 watts at 5000 RPM.

These are all constant draws not temporary draws like the stop light or blinkers
Headlight-55watts on low
Tailligiht- 5 watts
Running lights- 10 watts for both
License plate light- 5 watts

75 watts as long as you aren't running the highbeam then it's 135 watts.

So lets assume runig down the road with 135 watts of draw cause you're on a back road with high beams running. Running around 5k rpm that gives you a left over 175 watts of power to play with. Temp draws not included since they are temporary anyway.

I hope I was doing my math right those numbers should be good to go :/ But again math was never my strong point.

 

[Motogiro]

I use a Tourmaster Synery jacket with Gerbrings gloves and never had any problems with the stock charging system.

According to the Service Manual for the 07 the charging system puts out 310 watts at 5000 RPM.

These are all constant draws not temporary draws like the stop light or blinkers
Headlight-55watts on low
Tailligiht- 5 watts
Running lights- 10 watts for both
License plate light- 5 watts

75 watts as long as you aren't running the highbeam then it's 135 watts.

So lets assume runig down the road with 135 watts of draw cause you're on a back road with high beams running. Running around 5k rpm that gives you a left over 175 watts of power to play with. Temp draws not included since they are temporary anyway.

I hope I was doing my math right those numbers should be good to go :/ But again math was never my strong point.

Don't forget fuel injection nozzles, ECU, fuel pump and cooling fan, brake light and direcectionals when needed.......

 

[Downs]

Fan, brake light and directionals are temporary draw devices I don't count those.

You have to think of your electrical system as a water tank and stream. The tank is the battery the alternator is the stream and the electrical draw is how far the faucet is open. You can temporarily draw more power than you can produce but obviously not for ever. The fan and other stuff won't run long enough to deplete your power reserves in the battery.

As for the FI system I couldn't find any info on how much power that draws but it should be fairly low as low as the headlight at least probably much lower. None of the dash lights draw enough power to even bother calculating as they are LED and draw negligible power.

 

[Motogiro]

Fan, brake light and directionals are temporary draw devices I don't count those.

You have to think of your electrical system as a water tank and stream. The tank is the battery the alternator is the stream and the electrical draw is how far the faucet is open. You can temporarily draw more power than you can produce but obviously not for ever. The fan and other stuff won't run long enough to deplete your power reserves in the battery.

As for the FI system I couldn't find any info on how much power that draws but it should be fairly low as low as the headlight at least probably much lower. None of the dash lights draw enough power to even bother calculating as they are LED and draw negligible power.

I understand what you're saying about duty cycle. The injector nozzle solenoids (4) are operating (engine running) all the time. I don't know what the actual current draw is for them. The higher the RPM the higher the duty cycle.

Even though the other items are temporary what ever they use is still accountable for the voltage drop that must be replaced by the stator.
So temporary current usage should be counted and given recognition in these calculations as well as some of these bikes use the other head lamp and are good for 55lo-65hi additional wattage consumption.
Charge rate is also RPM dependent. So in essence you have a stator that is capable of +- 310 watts max. output but not always providing 310 watts output.

Enough extra draw and with less than 100% of 310 watts to consider in your calculations.

If you're not always charging at 310 watts and you've calculated using a 310 watt stator you'll be in deficit because you calculating max charging all the time which is not occurring.

Here's another link to other members that have done some research and come up with some numbers.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/1827-fz6-electrical-power.html

 

[Downs]

All correct But I'm also not idling around on my FZ running all my blinkers my brake light and hi-beam constantly. At highway speeds the stator should be putting out close to max output even around town I'm still operating at 4-5k RPM.

Basically what it comes down too unless you are running lots of other accessories and spending a lot of time idling around town the bike's charging system shouldn't have a problem maintaining a good charge even in a worst case everything on scenario.

If your heated jacket/vest whatever is killing the bike you probably have other issues that need to be addressed. If you are running multiple heated accessories plus whatever else you may need to be cognizant of what you are drawing and cycle the accessories as needed.

 

[Motogiro]

All correct But I'm also not idling around on my FZ running all my blinkers my brake light and hi-beam constantly. At highway speeds the stator should be putting out close to max output even around town I'm still operating at 4-5k RPM.

Basically what it comes down too unless you are running lots of other accessories and spending a lot of time idling around town the bike's charging system shouldn't have a problem maintaining a good charge even in a worst case everything on scenario.

If your heated jacket/vest whatever is killing the bike you probably have other issues that need to be addressed. If you are running multiple heated accessories plus whatever else you may need to be cognizant of what you are drawing and cycle the accessories as needed.

Yes I agree with your thoughts. I think most people are on the edge with a vest and gloves so if your not at optimum with your battery/charging and especially luggin round town you'll over run.

 

[Downs]

Well good we're both in agreement lol

 

[Motogiro]

Well good we're both in agreement lol

Yeah and go get some more beer in those big side cases you have on the bike! I'm comin over for a beer!

 

[Downs]

Last time I did that trip it took over 21 hours better get moving.

I may be getting stationed out there next year we'll have to link up and go for a ride somewhere.

 

[Cali rider]

An 04-06 FZ6 has approx. 45W-50W of excess charging capacity under stock conditions. It will produce this excess value from 2200 RPM and up. So, running the 90W vest at 50% duty cycle will keep your battery fully charged over time.

 

[Clovis]

I got a chance to use my jacket and gloves yesterday.

Rode around for about an hour and a half around town with both on full heat.

So far no problems other then a speeding ticket for my efforts.

The jacket is rated at 110watts and the gloves are 30watts.

Replaced both lights with HIDs and I run just 1 light on (highbearm turns on the second low beam HID).