Poor mans 0 dollar streetfighter mod

ny08r6

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ok ok more shots..too bad its raining and my flash sucks..

I rerouted all the cords up and behind the winscreen, as far as the flasher relay..I wrapped them all tight, went nuts with electrical tape and ziptied them to the stock fairing bracket that I shaved down a tad. the sitelines from the side aren't too sexy..but to be honest this is only a temp mod till I sell my front fairing and buy the buell setup (anyone want a mint stock front setup?)

JUST finished the gas cap powdercoating and installing her drag bars and with a slight upward rotation can still clear the tank at full left or right turns...check it out


IMG_2762.jpg


full left turn
IMG_2766.jpg



full right turn
IMG_2767.jpg



as she sits now the left signal controls are a lil awkward and I will prolly rotate the bars down a bit to fix that since I have enough room to play with... gotta wait till this effin storm passes


oh and a glam shot of the powdercoated cap

IMG_2769.jpg


i'll do some quick powderwork for forum members if there is enough interest.
 

lonesoldier84

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thanks for the extra info. I will need to sort out my wiring thats for sure. Ill try what you have done. I just used electrical tape and zip-ties too, but couldnt really find an effective place to get them all together at.


and how do you powdercoat? is it easy? I've googled it, but is there some easy solution for this like a do-it-yourself kit?

this sounds pretty involved.

The powder coating process involves three basic steps:

1. Part preparation or the Pre treatment
2. The powder application
3. Curing

Part Preparation Processes & Equipment
Removal of oil, soil, lubrication greases, metal oxides, welding scales etc. is essential prior to the powder coating process. It can be done by a variety of chemical and mechanical methods. The selection of the method depends on the size and the material of the part to be powder coated, the type of soil to be removed and the performance requirement of the finished product.

Chemical pre-treatments involve the use of phosphates or chromates in submersion or spray application. These often occur in multiple stages and consist of degreasing, etching, de-smutting, various rinses and the final phosphating or chromating of the substrate. The pre-treatment process both cleans and improves bonding of the powder to the metal. Recent additional processes have been developed that avoid the use of chromates, as these can be toxic to the environment. Titanium Zirconium and Silanes offer similar performance against corrosion and adhesion of the powder.

Another method of preparing the surface prior to coating is known as abrasive blasting or Sandblasting and shot blasting. Blast media and blasting abrasives are used to provide surface texturing and preparation, etching, finishing, and degreasing for products made of wood, plastic, or glass. The most important properties to consider are chemical composition and density; particle shape and size; and impact resistance.

Silicon carbide grit blast media is brittle, sharp, and suitable for grinding metals and low-tensile strength, non-metallic materials. Plastic media blast equipment uses plastic abrasives that are sensitive to substrates such as aluminum, but still suitable for de-coating and surface finishing. Sand blast media uses high-purity crystals that have low-metal content. Glass bead blast media contains glass beads of various sizes.

Cast steel shot or steel grit is used to clean and prepare the surface before coating. Shot blasting recycles the media and is environmentally friendly. This method of preparation is highly efficient on steel parts such as I-beams, angles, pipes, tubes and large fabricated pieces.

Different powder coating applications can require alternative methods of preparation such as abrasive blasting prior to coating. The online consumer market typically offers media blasting services coupled with their coating services at additional costs.

Powder Application Processes
The most common way of applying the powder coating to metal objects is to spray the powder using an electrostatic gun, or Corona gun. The gun imparts a positive electric charge on the powder, which is then sprayed towards the grounded object by mechanical or compressed air spraying and then accelerated toward the workpiece by the powerful electrostatic charge. There are a wide variety of spray nozzles available for use in electrostatic coating. The type of nozzle used will depend on the shape of the workpiece to be painted and the consistency of the paint. The object is then heated, and the powder melts into a uniform film, and is then cooled to form a hard coating. It is also common to heat the metal first and spray the powder onto the hot substrate. Preheating can help to achieve a more uniform finish but can also create other problems, such as runs caused by excess powder. See the article "Fusion Bonded Epoxy Coatings"

Another type of gun is called a Tribo gun, which charges the powder by (triboelectric) friction. In this case, the powder picks up a positive charge while rubbing along the wall of a Teflon tube inside the barrel of the gun. These charged powder particles then adhere to the grounded substrate. Using a Tribo gun requires a different formulation of powder than the more common Corona guns. Tribo guns are not subject to some of the problems associated with Corona guns, however, such as back ionization and the Faraday Cage Effect.

Powder can also be applied using specifically adapted electrostatic discs.

Another method of applying powder coating, called the Fluidized Bed method, is by heating the substrate and then dipping it into an aerated, powder-filled bed. The powder sticks and melts to the hot object. Further heating is usually required to finish curing the coating. This method is generally used when the desired thickness of coating is to exceed 300 micrometres. This is how most dishwasher racks are coated.

Electrostatic Fluidized Bed Coating: Electrostatic fluidized bed application uses the same fluidizing technique and the conventional fluidized bed dip process but with much less powder depth in the bed. An electrostatic charging media is placed inside the bed so that the powder material becomes charged as the fluidizing air lifts it up. Charged particles of powder move upward and form a cloud of charged powder above the fluid bed. When a grounded part is passed through the charged cloud the particles will be attracted to its surface. The parts are not preheated as they are for the conventional fluidized bed dip process.

Electrostatic magnetic Brush (EMB) Coating: an innovative coating method for flat materials that applies powder coating with roller technique, enabling relative high speeds and a very accurate layer thickness between 5 and 100 micrometre. The base for this process is conventional copier technology . Currently in use in some high- tech coating applications and very promising for commercial powder coating on flat substrates ( steel, Aluminium, MDF, paper, board) as well in sheet to sheet and/or roll to roll processes. This process can potentially be integrated in any existing coating line.

Curing

When a thermoset powder is exposed to elevated temperature, it begins to melt, flows out, and then chemically reacts to form a higher molecular weight polymer in a network-like structure. This cure process, called crosslinking, requires a certain degree of temperature for a certain length of time in order to reach full cure and establish the full film properties for which the material was designed. Normally the powders cure at 200°C (390°F) in 10 minutes. The curing schedule could vary according to the manufacturer's specifications.

The application of energy to the product to be cured can be accomplished by convection cure ovens or infrared cure ovens.
 
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ny08r6

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I picked up a basic gun and a toaster oven..if it fits in there I can powdercoat it... done all of the fz6, my r6 and about 15 other bikes from forums or around the area. Its not that hard once you get the knack of it.
 

dturpen

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I picked up a basic gun and a toaster oven..if it fits in there I can powdercoat it... done all of the fz6, my r6 and about 15 other bikes from forums or around the area. Its not that hard once you get the knack of it.

Wish you were closer to AR; I would ask you to do my rearsets, handlebar clamp, rear sprocket, gas cap cover, etc.
 

ny08r6

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i picked up the craftsman gun..which eventually broke because of its crappy construction, then bought one from harbor freight which works nicely.

I'd be willing to do some PCing for u turpin, just gotta work out a price and be willing to not ride for a lil bit. drop me a PM
 

dturpen

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i picked up the craftsman gun..which eventually broke because of its crappy construction, then bought one from harbor freight which works nicely.

I'd be willing to do some PCing for u turpin, just gotta work out a price and be willing to not ride for a lil bit. drop me a PM

If I can work something out with the wife (make her drive the car and let me ride her bike or vice versa), and depending on how much someone local is going to charge me, I just might take you up on that offer.
 

ny08r6

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sorry, gotta upload one tonight for ya. not the sexiest thing from the side..but I'm sure with some free time and spare fairings to hack up I could make something nice
 

ny08r6

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UPDATE:

still tryin to keep it ghetto..

add drag bars and bar end mirrors: $40ish total
add paint to the forks and triple with a satin blk rim spray and a ton of clear coat $15

IMG_2863.jpg


IMG_2861.jpg



and the not so ghetto part:
crash cage $150

IMG_2866.jpg


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just waiting on the pyramid headlight to come in the mail and should be near complete
 
S

s13browe

I like this look keeps it looking like a fz6 and not some space craft or rice rod.
 
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