Corsara
Member
Wait a minute---are you saying that it is very common that sprockets are aligned correctly, or very common that sprockets are NOT aligned correctly?
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No rear axle bolt alignment marks, why?
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
Wait a minute---are you saying that it is very common that sprockets are aligned correctly, or very common that sprockets are NOT aligned correctly?
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
Mine is the click kind that has a switch to work both ways. However, I'm now confused about what is a "torque cycle"I used the wrench to screw in frame sliders, and I am afraid that if there is such thing as need to "reset" the torque wrench, my frame bolts might not be tightened up to specs, which could be dangerous I guess?!
When you use the torque wrench to a torque setting and it makes the "pop" sound or stops tightening. That's a torque cycle. Most wrenches are rated like this, "3 years or 10,000 torque cycles". After that you need to recalibrate them. Which generally involves sending the wrench to the manufacturer and paying them some money. Unless you happen to have a $2000 torque wrench calibrator in your garage.
So while the wrench will be fine if you use it to remove bolts, you'll have to calibrate it more frequently. So more $$$.
CCHOUSEKY
Kentucky Wildcat Fanatic
Ha, ha...I should have been clearer on that point. I was saying that I've never seen the problem of the sprockets NOT being aligned correctly. Sorry about that!
Corsara
Member
Hello everyone, I am the OP.
So, tonight I got my hands dirty at last
I pulled two strings on both sides of the bike, around the rear tire and barely touching the front of the rear tire, tied the other ends on two bottles full of water. Measured left side from the string to the front tire rim, made sure it's same on front and back of the rim, measurement was 2 cm (less than an inch for my US friends). Measured right side---damn---5 cm!!!!
Put the wrench to the axle nut, one kick with the shoe downwards and it let go, yeah baby... I must have played around for about an hour adjusting, checking chain slack, screwing back the axle, unscrewing it again, kicking the tire from the back, what not, i had a wild and passionate interaction with the bike all evening long that by the time I got ready and satisfied with the result, I went inside to brag but wife was long asleep, lol
Can't wait to take the bike for a ride tomorrow and see how she handles! Hope it doesn't rain! Thanks a lot to everyone for the tips, and encouragement to get to work
So, tonight I got my hands dirty at last
I pulled two strings on both sides of the bike, around the rear tire and barely touching the front of the rear tire, tied the other ends on two bottles full of water. Measured left side from the string to the front tire rim, made sure it's same on front and back of the rim, measurement was 2 cm (less than an inch for my US friends). Measured right side---damn---5 cm!!!!
Put the wrench to the axle nut, one kick with the shoe downwards and it let go, yeah baby... I must have played around for about an hour adjusting, checking chain slack, screwing back the axle, unscrewing it again, kicking the tire from the back, what not, i had a wild and passionate interaction with the bike all evening long that by the time I got ready and satisfied with the result, I went inside to brag but wife was long asleep, lol
Can't wait to take the bike for a ride tomorrow and see how she handles! Hope it doesn't rain! Thanks a lot to everyone for the tips, and encouragement to get to work
Corsara
Member
It is going to be raining all day here in Ontario it is too bad as I really wanted to test-ride the result of my work. I somehow can't find peace knowing that now when supposedly I did the alignment correctly with the string, the right adjustment bolt protrudes much more than the left. So, either the bolts are of different sizes (unlikely?), or my measurements withe the string are wrong (I am pretty confident I did it perfectly), or maybe the rear wheel/tire are bad, or frame bent or what?! bike doesn't seem to have ever been dropped or crashed..
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
it is too bad as I really wanted to test-ride the result of my work. I somehow can't find peace knowing that now when supposedly I did the alignment correctly with the string, the right adjustment bolt protrudes much more than the left. So, either the bolts are of different sizes (unlikely?), or my measurements withe the string are wrong (I am pretty confident I did it perfectly), or maybe the rear wheel/tire are bad, or frame bent or what?! bike doesn't seem to have ever been dropped or crashed..Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
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I suggested the way to check it in your other thread, the bolts will be the same length.
Corsara
Member
Thanks Andz. But really---originally the bolts were protruding the same length, then add to that my feeling like left turns happen much sharper than right turns, which require constant pushing to counter-steer. I know I'm new and I might very well be clueless when it comes to evaluating the handling of the bike, but add to that the rear wheel severe difference when aligning with strings---the tires were obviously not going in the same path.. If it is so unlikely that the bolts are of different sizes, then I'm in big trouble
CdnMedic
Junior Member
Where in Ontario are you? I'm in Petawawa but soon relocating to the Barrie area for a bit.
My suggestion, honestly, is to take out the rear axle, take out your adjusting blocks (they just slide out the back once the axle is out) and then flip them so the alignment marks show and put it all back together.
Having a buddy (or the wife) around to help with aligning the rear axle up to go through the swingarm, wheel and the plastic brake guide thing (whatever the name for it is) is a huge help. I did mine all on my own, but I've been working on bikes (mostly motocross) for a few years now. If it doesn't go in relatively smooth (feels like it's binding up) then stop and re-asses that you have everyhing in place and lined up.
It's very hard to screw it up, things tend to go back together the right way!
I currently have the rear end of the dirt bike ripped apart (subframe, shock out, linkage out and exhaust off) and I can't remember what bolt was for exactly what mount position, but I know it will go back together properly once I get out there and working on it...
You'll never learn unless you start!
Next time you see one of those $500 Canadian tire socket sets on sale for half price, pick one up, it has every socket and wrench you'll need to work on the bike including a nice breaker bar. I've had to buy a 32mm socket for my front sprocket nut (also the same size as the rear axle nut) and an inch/lb torque wrench for the clutch plate spring bolts but that's about it that I have needed along with my chain break/rivet tool.
I also would rather spend the money on a tool once and can do the job myself a million times for free than to spend the same money on a shop doing the job and I'm left without a tool or the knowledge on how to work on my bike.
Sorry for the rant.
My suggestion, honestly, is to take out the rear axle, take out your adjusting blocks (they just slide out the back once the axle is out) and then flip them so the alignment marks show and put it all back together.
Having a buddy (or the wife) around to help with aligning the rear axle up to go through the swingarm, wheel and the plastic brake guide thing (whatever the name for it is) is a huge help. I did mine all on my own, but I've been working on bikes (mostly motocross) for a few years now. If it doesn't go in relatively smooth (feels like it's binding up) then stop and re-asses that you have everyhing in place and lined up.
It's very hard to screw it up, things tend to go back together the right way!
I currently have the rear end of the dirt bike ripped apart (subframe, shock out, linkage out and exhaust off) and I can't remember what bolt was for exactly what mount position, but I know it will go back together properly once I get out there and working on it...
You'll never learn unless you start!
Next time you see one of those $500 Canadian tire socket sets on sale for half price, pick one up, it has every socket and wrench you'll need to work on the bike including a nice breaker bar. I've had to buy a 32mm socket for my front sprocket nut (also the same size as the rear axle nut) and an inch/lb torque wrench for the clutch plate spring bolts but that's about it that I have needed along with my chain break/rivet tool.
I also would rather spend the money on a tool once and can do the job myself a million times for free than to spend the same money on a shop doing the job and I'm left without a tool or the knowledge on how to work on my bike.
Sorry for the rant.
Corsara
Member
Thank buddy! I really appreciate your "rant"! I usually think the same way---buy the tools and get the knowledge to do the stuff yourself--one or a hundred times!
I took the bike out tonight---it handles like a charm! Turns out that the string method of aligning things worked out for me great. Add to that the fact that I got the chain alignment tool---it turned out that both my string method and chain alignment tool reveal almost the same alignment.... "almost" because it's just a tiny bit off... nevertheless, for the first time right and left turns feel the same (symmetrical).
Thanks everyone for the tips and advice! I feel like I learned a lot! I will swap those plates/blocks first chance I get, though I don't think I need to touch it now, I'm happy as it is
FIZZER6
The Angry Blue Mantis
Am I the only one who thinks that does not look like a 2007 swing arm? 
It looks like my 2006 arm with MUCH LESS rear axle adjustment range and no marks, very strange.
I align my rear wheel by giving it the same gap on the leading edge from left to right swing arm...when I do that the alignment is perfect with the front wheel even though the alignment marks aren't matched up! Don't go by marks...go by a real alignment procedure. The string or board trick is adequate.
It looks like my 2006 arm with MUCH LESS rear axle adjustment range and no marks, very strange.
I align my rear wheel by giving it the same gap on the leading edge from left to right swing arm...when I do that the alignment is perfect with the front wheel even though the alignment marks aren't matched up! Don't go by marks...go by a real alignment procedure. The string or board trick is adequate.
+1^^^
Most definitely an 06' or earlier swing-arm.
Most definitely an 06' or earlier swing-arm.
Corsara
Member
I am the OP and yes, the pictures above are from my 2005 FZ6.
hise0001
Junior Member
My handy-dandy, high-dollar alignment tool is a $1.75 curtain rod... The cheapest, most basic curtain rod is the one you need (the one where it curves 90 degrees and the endpoint connects to the mount on the window seal).
Loosen axle bolt.
Dial in your proper chain tension on the left.
Adjust curtain rod to match the left side "swing arm bolt to axle bolt" distance.
Dial in the right axle adjustment bolt until "swing arm bolt to axle bolt" distance matches the curtain rod.
Recheck measurements on both sides (and chain tension) and lock down your axle bolt.
Just went through this procedure 2 days ago on my 2005 model.... It took about 20 minutes total from lifting the bike, lubing the chain, adjusting the chain, and clean up.
Loosen axle bolt.
Dial in your proper chain tension on the left.
Adjust curtain rod to match the left side "swing arm bolt to axle bolt" distance.
Dial in the right axle adjustment bolt until "swing arm bolt to axle bolt" distance matches the curtain rod.
Recheck measurements on both sides (and chain tension) and lock down your axle bolt.
Just went through this procedure 2 days ago on my 2005 model.... It took about 20 minutes total from lifting the bike, lubing the chain, adjusting the chain, and clean up.
