Longer engine bolt?

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I got the givi engine guards and I like them but they block the oil drain plug. Ground down as much of the engine mount bolt as I feel comfortable with (actually the head not the threaded part) and I tried it with spacers but still can't get the drain plug out without loosening everything on the guard. Is there a place where I can get a bolt a little longer that would work as the engine mount bolt? Is there a specific strength I should look for? I'm sure that it can't be good to keep loosening the engine mounts everytime I do an oil change.
Thanks!
Realized I said I ground down the mount bolt, it was the plug that I ground the head down. Think a longer bolt for the engine mount or can I ground down the threads on the plug about 1/8"?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I looked up those guards on-line but couldn't find a pic of them installed near the filter/drain plug for the FZ6.

I re-call reading (here) of the same issue without any fix..

Can you post a picture (fairly close) of the area in question?

Something to consider, should the guard have to come off for servicing, to put a stud in the block (vs bolt), this way there's no wear and tear on the block threads, just the NEW STUD and nut. (That's if it will fit.).

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

9

This is as close as I could get this morning. I may try to take a couple of threads off the plug next time I change the oil. If that doesn't work I'll get some sliders

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Somethings you may try;

Loosen up the left side guard and put a washer or two between the guard and the mounting point. Then tighten it up. You should gain a mm or two of space. You'd be basically just shimming the guard out some, for more access to the drain plug.

I might trim the head of the drain plug some. That should help depending on how close it is (as I re-call, the drain bolt is slightly dished)

Also, don't think it would work, BUT, if the drain bolt is just close to the edge of the guard, grind down some of the guard itselfto make room for the drain plug.

IF the drain plug is dead smack in the middle of that plate, AND if the plate is large enough, drilling an access hole right thru that plate, for the drain plug to clear would work.

I did this to my Snapper lawn mower. They had a belt drive cover that you had to remove to change the oil. Found the center of it with the drain, put a hole just large enough for the plug / extension to fit, done..

Actually, its a pretty poor design on GIVI's part(in that area). A wider plate with an access hole would have been the way to go.. If you know someone with a welder and metal skills, that part could be cut off or modified/ replaced.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I have ground down the head of the plug already, left enough for me to grab. Tried with a couple of washers but with the amount of space that is needed I thought it didn't leave enough of the threads on the other side for the bolt. I did read where somebody ground down the bar itself. It sits right behind the edge of it. I'll put up a picture

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

sorry for that huge picture...I'm at work. Looking at it I'm not sure I can ground down the bars or drill a hole..good idea by the way.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

sorry for that huge picture...I'm at work. Looking at it I'm not sure I can ground down the bars or drill a hole..good idea by the way.

GREAT pic! Perfect.

You have a bunch of room (maybe not that much but definitly a huge help) you can grind off the edge of that plate without loosing any strenth.

Just stop grinding at about the weld so the tube and flat plate are still as one with the weld.

You could probably go farther than that, but I think that would do. If it had to be further "clearanced", I personally would clearance as needed and should you grind thru the pipe, have a welder, fill back in the hole and grind back smooth.. Definitly do-able...

Some good Rustoleum shiny black underneath once you know everything fits, good to go!

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I'll have a closer look at it when I get off of work tomorrow. Thanks for all the help...again :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'll have a closer look at it when I get off of work tomorrow. Thanks for all the help...again :rockon:

No problem, please post what the final "fix" is.. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

sorry for that huge picture...I'm at work. Looking at it I'm not sure I can ground down the bars or drill a hole..good idea by the way.

Design team should be smacked up side the head for that little maneuverer!!! :spank::spank::spank:!

What were they thinking??? :ban:

You might look into an oil drain valve. The ball ones seal good but it may not fit either.... >> click for a pic https://www.google.com/search?q=oil...h&sa=X&ei=ZiF9VJiIOY6IigLH2IHgDQ&ved=0CAUQ_AU

Another - Warning :: Qwik Valve

 

[Vyzr]

Maybe this...?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Maybe this...?

The issue isn't getting to the drain bolt, a regualr box had wrench will do that. There's currently NOT enough clearance for the bolt to come before it hits the guard. Once its cracked loose, It'll spin out by hand.

I know its been an issue (again, read it here) for the FZ6.

As Randy pointed out, the ball valve would be good too IF it would fit with it all assembled.

I think that ball valve is quite a bit longer and likely WON'T CLEAR that TOG. A call or check at their website for exact spec's would be needed.

I believe, looking at the large close up pic, IAMJUSTIFIED is just about there removing the stock drain bolt. Some carefull grinding on the guard should take care of it...

IMO, it is an ongoing issue. Something I would NOT EXPECT from GIVI. I would contact GIVI, forward pic's, thread, etc and see what THEY have to say. See if they will modify previous units or at least change/address the current issue.

BTW, to my knowledge (again from posts here) your the first to actually address the problem. What works will definitly help other members, possibly GIVI taking note and modifying future units...

 

[Zargof]

I have the Givi engine bars to fix this issue I took a long pry bar and gently tweaked the left side bar out away from the engine. I can now get the oil drain plug in and out without removing the guard or modifying the oil plug length.

 

[fazil]

I have the Givi engine bars to fix this issue I took a long pry bar and gently tweaked the left side bar out away from the engine. I can now get the oil drain plug in and out without removing the guard or modifying the oil plug length.

Sounds like a good idea, did you make it while the bars are on the bike?

 

[Zargof]

I had the right side engine guard off so that the adjustment was only to the left side. The goal is to apply the pressure to the tab above the oil drain plug, but make sure you use something solid as your pry point on the bike.

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: as others have found, leaving "bent or improperly fitted" crash bars on, often leads to cracks. Several have had these guards crack from pulling them in with bolts or straining them.

STRESS + Vibration + Misalignment = Cracks!

That said, if the bolts don't freely enter/exit the holes its under strain. If you have to pull in the guard to fill a gap, you're better off adding washers to fill the void than sucking it in with a bolt.

- lastly, granted these bolt to the engine, this is a cast frame and castings don't like stress. It induces cracks!
- As Scott mentioned; grind it away and weld up any exposed tubing. JM2C