Key hard to turn

[blu04]

Went to start the FZ the other day and had to fight with the key to get it to turn out of the lock position. When it is just in the OFF position it is still hard to turn to the ON position. Is it possible to put some sort of eltrical cleaner in the switch to help clean it out. If nothing works to make it turn easier how hard is it to relplace the switch? Thanks for any info/advice anyone can provide.

 

[Andz]

I've had a similar problem. When I approached my local dealer they said that you have to change the ignition switch, the seat lock, the tank lock, all the keys and the immobiliser (at an outrageous price) so I just left it!

 

[Shamus McFeeley]

Dry film lubricant or graphite lube works great in locks, and you can find some at any auto parts store.

 

[Chaosratt]

I hit mine with the same teflon lube I use for the chain. Works wonders for a few months then it starts to gum up again. Hasnt happened since I started keeping the bike indoors...

 

[RJ2112]

in the time I have owned the bike, the tank lock and the ignition lock have become 'stiff'.... WD 40 applied to both has cleared up the problem. That's been about a year ago, and they are still working without issue. My bike lives under a carport, and it out in all sorts of weather.

 

[Cloggy]

I've used both WD 40 (works for a short period), graphite powder (didn't make much difference) and lock antifreeze, with lubricant worked the best of all but my lock is still a bit on the stiff side. My dealer told me to push the key to the outside of the lock before turning it and this definately helps me (although it is still a bit stiff).

 

[fazer_warrior]

WD 40 worked fine for me too. I had to apply it at a couple of times after the bike was under the rain for one night. After that I've had no major problems

 

[RJ2112]

It's not like I used just a little bit in the locks.... I thoroughly soaked the lock innards with the WD 40. I am amazed I couldn't see it dripping out of the lock body.

 

[blu04]

Thanks for the info everyone, I guess I will try some WD40 and see how that works. I found the ignition switch online for about 130.00 bucks but then you have to buy a blank key and have it cut. WD40 is definately cheaper for the short term.

 

[chunkygoat]

I had the same problem and I realized it was only when my bike was locked that it was difficult to turn the key. I did a little trial and error and it seems like it only happens when the handlebars are locked and aren't fully turned to the left. There is about a half inch of give when its locked, and you can sort of jiggle the handlebars left and right. If its at all to the right, it gives me problems.

Only when the bars are turned to the left as far as they go does it not give me problems, and since I made that realization, I've had no issues with it. Sounds silly but it worked for me.

 

[SirByron]

I've had that problem since I got mine (used with 11,000 miles). When I first got it it was terrible, I'd spend 5 minutes messing with it before it worked some days, some days it would be fine. I ended up figuring it was the key, so I took the key to a specialty lock shop and they made me a new one which works great. (still a little funny sometimes though) They also gave me some lube for it, and told me that the main reason this happens on motorcycles is people have a bunch of sh*t attatched to their keychain and it makes the key rattle around in the ignition and it slowly jacks it up.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

On the new generation FJR's their having problems with a soldiered joint inside the ignition switch not soldiered correctly(loosing electric). Yamaha has been replacing the ignition switch and replacing the original lock cylinder to the new switch(so you have the same key).

I suspect the switch is very similar (my 04 FJR switch looks the same as my 07 FZ6 switch). It can be re-keyed so find another dealer or a good locksmith. There are theft resistant (2) bolts that secure the switch to the triple clamp, the heads must be drilled out, then the switch comes off. You can then twist the remaining bolts out with a vise grip and later replace with new reg bolts (I'd use SS allen heads). Read the below thread(its long) so you know what your talking about with your dealer. BTW, sounds like your dealer doesn't want to mess with it....

http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=113791

Also from page 9 same arcticle:

Tech Bulletin finally arrived at our dealership sometime in the early hours today before the sun came up. Affected range according to the letter you will get is ALL 2006 through 2008 and certain 2009 FJR1300A and AE model motorcycles. In the letter it states replacing the main switch should take about 1 hour. (YEAH RIGHT) Your key tumbler will stay with your bike so those of you worried about the one key thing have nothing to worry about.For those of you who had problems before and got yours replaced at YOUR cost, at our dealership the service manager has contacted Yamaha Customer Service many times and they have always come through for our customers. I know from personal experiance on my Roadstar, if ya have copies of all your paperwork it sure makes your case stronger getting your hard earned money back.


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Seems the actual tumblers for the key/housing will unbolt from the switch. If the key/housing tumblers are worn a new switch should be able to be re-keyed to keep one key......


I myself, would try using some liguid wrench, not WD 40 as LW is more of a lubricant before I went any further or as posted above try cutting a new key (as perhaps the key may be worn)...

Scott

 

[clsfly]

I've got a 2006 and it acts the same way, I never lock the fork for fear of spending an hour getting it unlocked or not being able to get it unlocked at all! I have new keys, lub the cylinder, no other stuff on the key ring, I am going to have my locksmith neighbor give it a look, if he has a solution I will post it.

 

[Nelly]

I have had the same issue. I was unable to lock the steering and turn the parking lights on. I tried WD40 to no effect. I then squirted a healthy dose of 3-1 oil down it. It has been fine since.

Nelly

 

[SANGER_A2]

Another tip is to check the key isn't bent/twisted. Mine got bent in the under-seat lock and was harder to turn in the ignition lock. I lubed both locks with WD and bent the key straight with pliers and it's been fine since.

 

[Kriswithak]

I had the same problem and I realized it was only when my bike was locked that it was difficult to turn the key. I did a little trial and error and it seems like it only happens when the handlebars are locked and aren't fully turned to the left. There is about a half inch of give when its locked, and you can sort of jiggle the handlebars left and right. If its at all to the right, it gives me problems.

Only when the bars are turned to the left as far as they go does it not give me problems, and since I made that realization, I've had no issues with it. Sounds silly but it worked for me.

This is pretty good advice I've found the same thing, after I realised the problem wasn't always occuring, I tried to mess around to see what caused it or eliminated it and came to the same conclusion. I guess its possible people who do mods that limit full lock might be the most likely to experience this.