Installed a set of Renthal 755's today

[ckrockets]

Installed a set of Renthal 755-01-BK Road Medium bars today on my 09 FZ6.

Cut 1" off each end, drilled (9/16") and Tapped (M16X1.5) the ends for the factory bar ends.

Got the tap off of ebay for $9.60 delivered. 16mm x 1.5 Metric HSS Right hand Tap M16 x 1.5mm Pitch | eBay

Took about 3 hours total as I took my time with everything.

I am extremely pleased with these bars and the way it turned out.

 

[mave2911]

I've got a Road Medium and a Road High that I was going choose between to fit on my '05, but I got a bit worried about the cables and brake lines possibly not being long enough.

Also, the bar is wider in the middle, with shorter handgrip pieces, so I was concerned my grips etc wouldn't fit....

Is there any difference of the mounting points on the S1 and S2?

If not, and if the cables/hoses are going to be long enough, I should just bite the bullet!

Cheers,
Rick

 

[ckrockets]

I've got a Road Medium and a Road High that I was going choose between to fit on my '05, but I got a bit worried about the cables and brake lines possibly not being long enough.

Also, the bar is wider in the middle, with shorter handgrip pieces, so I was concerned my grips etc wouldn't fit....

Is there any difference of the mounting points on the S1 and S2?

If not, and if the cables/hoses are going to be long enough, I should just bite the bullet!

Cheers,
Rick

Road High's are going to need longer cables and wires.

No difference in S1 and S2.

In my opinion the Renthal Road Medium's are the best replacement bar option available for the FZ6.

 

[SANGER_A2]

Road High's are going to need longer cables and wires.

No difference in S1 and S2.

In my opinion the Renthal Road Medium's are the best replacement bar option available for the FZ6.

I have road highs WITH 20mm bar risers. I have braided brake lines and had to re-route the cables a bit, but it works. Pics in my site link below. I love them! I'm gonna buy a tap and fit the stock bars now I know what they are now!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do you know how far up and back the new bars are? Got the spec's from Renthal
( http://www.renthalroad.com/File/product_78handlebars.aspx ) , disregard..

Looks real good BTW, nice and clean install..


For others, I know you can go up 1" and back 1 & 3/8" with risers/setbacks with the stock cables, lines but the brake line bracket needs some tweeking/adjusting (some slight re-clocking of the hydralic line at the MC as well as I re-call).

The bars still clear the tank BUT for lifting the tank, the tank now has to be loosened up and SLID BACK should you need to get under it. The bars WILL STRIKE the tank should you try to raise it on the rear pivot bolt..

 

[mayassa]

Tell us your opinion on vibration, I have the same set up and they still numb my hands at 80mph after about 20 minutes. I ordered the ROX anti-vibe risers with some FZ1 bars to try next.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tell us your opinion on vibration, I have the same set up and they still numb my hands at 80mph after about 20 minutes. I ordered the ROX anti-vibe risers with some FZ1 bars to try next.

If you haven't already, a throttle body re-sync may help some with the vibration (depending on how far out they are).

The Yamaha in-line 4 cylinders are known to have some vibration inherent in them, syncing at idle AND at 4,000 got rid of 80% of mine.. Thats with 1' up, 1 & 3/8" back, risers too..

The foam "Grip Puppies", once you get used to them, help too... Perferated leather gloves with gel in the palms, a Spencer modded seat took care of the remaining 20%...

 

[Marthy]

Look nice and clean. I have the same set up on my 6R but with the 787 with heavy bar ends. Love it! I had to move things around a bit but it work fine.

 

[mayassa]

If you haven't already, a throttle body re-sync may help some with the vibration (depending on how far out they are).

The Yamaha in-line 4 cylinders are known to have some vibration inherent in them, syncing at idle AND at 4,000 got rid of 80% of mine.. Thats with 1' up, 1 & 3/8" back, risers too..

The foam "Grip Puppies", once you get used to them, help too... Perferated leather gloves with gel in the palms, a Spencer modded seat took care of the remaining 20%...

Thanks for the info I will have to try syncing them them.

 

[darius]

I picked up the same bar and the tap suggested from ebay.

What tools do I need to successfully tap the ends of the handlebars? I've never tapped threads before.

I may have messed up as I don't have a decent workbench with a vice that will clamp the bars down solid and no T-handle for the tapping bit. Thanks.

Tap:
16mm x 1.5 Metric HSS Right hand Tap M16 x 1.5mm Pitch | eBay

 

[mave2911]

If I'm not mistaken, you will also need to drill the ends of the bars, as from memory, the ID of the Renthals is 13mm and your tap is 16mm.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[darius]

If I'm not mistaken, you will also need to drill the ends of the bars, as from memory, the ID of the Renthals is 13mm and your tap is 16mm.

Cheers,
Rick

OK thanks. According to a drill and tap chart, for a 16 x 1.5 tap- I need a 14.5mm drill bit.

Should this be attempted with a hand drill or is a drill press recommended?

The tap bit has a 10mm square drive to it. What and where is the handle I need?

 

[darius]

OK I think I have it just about figured out now.

Since the US has rejected the socialist metric system I have to go with a 9/16 or maybe a 37/64ths of an inch drill bit.

For the tap, a bloody 10mm tap wrench won't work because the sizing of the handles doesn't match the size of the shank. I need something called a reamer wrench that will support a 16mm tap.

Oh crap, just found my drill isn't big enough to support a bit that size. The smallest little projects tend to be the biggest PITA. :BLAA:

 

[mave2911]

That is why I'm getting HVMP heavy bar ends, that just slide up the inner tube and lock off via the compression of the rubber bush.

I did consider drilling and tapping, but the HVMP heavy bar ends are heavier, so will give added vibration dampening, and it was going to be a pain in the arse to do.

HVMP bar ends are $55.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[fb40dash5]

OK I think I have it just about figured out now.

Since the US has rejected the socialist metric system I have to go with a 9/16 or maybe a 37/64ths of an inch drill bit.

For the tap, a bloody 10mm tap wrench won't work because the sizing of the handles doesn't match the size of the shank. I need something called a reamer wrench that will support a 16mm tap.

Oh crap, just found my drill isn't big enough to support a bit that size. The smallest little projects tend to be the biggest PITA. :BLAA:

Ace has 9/16" bits with a 1/2", maybe even smaller, shank. I think the one I have is an Irwin... if I hadn't moved across the country, I'd offer to loan it to you.

I use tap sockets, but I dunno if I even have one that goes that big, and I'm sure it would cost a bloody fortune and never be needed again, at least not for any other purpose! I'd be pretty tempted to go at it very carefully with a crescent wrench, or a 12pt box end.

But I'm with ^, I'd just get the HVMP ends for all that work... and I own the right tap, drill bit, and have the shop space to do it in.

 

[mave2911]

Link to HVMP. (note, link is for universal as if you pick the Fizzer, you'll get the threaded version, also you MUST specify you're using Renthal bars as they have a smaller ID)

Cheers,
Rick

 

[darius]

Drill and tap job done. :thumbup:

I had to borrow a large enough drill. It didn't have variable speed and the drill bit jammed and broke apart. Using some pliers and a file I resumed drilling with the salvaged stubby bit. I was lubing the bit with WD40.

After drilling to 22 to 25mm I tapped the threads taking it slow. My PoS vice couldn't hold the bar well enough so I had to support the far end with my knees as well. I used Triflow to lube as I tapped and brake cleaner to clean up the threads after.

This is an easy job if you have the right tools. I didn't so it was a PITA, but I'm a cheap stubborn git. :BLAA:

 

[mikesova]

So I purchased the road mediums based on this thread. For some reason I assumed I would be able to source the tap locally. However, no such luck, so I just went ahead and ordered the one you guys linked to. Doh, 10-20 days to arrive!

I feel like I had to rotate the bars towards me while sitting on the bike more than I really wanted to, in order to keep the clutch lever from contacting the mirrors at full lock.

I also ordered a set of oury road grips to replace the stock grips. They are pretty nice and soft. I can't wait to use them.

I also haven't cut down the bars yet, either.

 

[mikesova]

Cut the bars down and ran the oury grips the other day with no bar ends. It was fine. I didn't feel any numbness like I usually do on the throttle side. Last night I drilled and tapped the clutch side. The weight threaded in flawlessly and looks great with the new grips. Going to do the other side this afternoon. Will get pics if anybody wants them.

 

[darius]

Cut the bars down and ran the oury grips the other day with no bar ends. It was fine. I didn't feel any numbness like I usually do on the throttle side. Last night I drilled and tapped the clutch side. The weight threaded in flawlessly and looks great with the new grips. Going to do the other side this afternoon. Will get pics if anybody wants them.

Nice. Sounds like you had an easier time than me. I hope it works for you. I've since gone back to my FZ1 bar again but with risers.