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How to replace your chain

  • Thread starter Thread starter sportrider
  • Start date Start date
6500 miles, Is the axel loose enough to slide while adjusting the chain?

To wear a chain and sprockets out that quickly you would have to had the chain way to tight. Putting on a new chain and over tightening it again you not only will go through chains your going to wear out your countershaft bearing.
 
Thanks for the comments . . . I think the chain is fine. It's just that it seems to slacken after just a couple of hundred miles, and needs to be tensioned. I just adjusted it and I am out of room; the axle is all the way back.

I have not been great about the maintenance, but I haven't ignored it either. Is replacing the chain my only option? (I've only had shaft drive before - my apologies.)

Joe
 
i want to pose a question. about the stack of washers in front of and behind the front sprocket. how many and what order should they be in?

i bought my bike a 2007fz6 in april of 2011. it came with the 520conv. its clearly new. i decided i wanted to use a 17t front sproc. now i want to make sure my sproc is flipped correctly and that i have all the washers that i need and that they are ordered correctly.
 
First, remove the front sprocket cover and carefully put it aside with the bolts positioned in the holes they were taken from. Not all bolts will be of the same length. The area behind the sprocket cover is apt to be covered in grease. After you dig out the gunk, examine the front sprocket nut and locking assembly. There is usually a lock washer on the sprocket rod, so start by bending back the "wings." It is best to break the nut now, while the bike is still weighted and in gear, since these nuts can be difficult to remove. Use a breaker-bar if necessary and if the bike begins to rock forward have a mate depress the brakes. You need to loosen this nut, but not remove it fully at this point. (It is a nice suggestion to break the bolts holding your rear sprocket on now, while the wheel is locked. Keep in mind; you need to loosen the bolts so that you won't be struggling with them later, when the wheel is unsecured.) When the nut is loose, put the Motorcycle in to neutral and heft it up on its middle stand. Now remove the chain guard, carefully putting the bolts aside or screwing them in to the middle stand to make reassembly simpler. know more about this here on IndianCarz

Break the chain with the rear wheel suspended off the ground. Feed the chain out from the axel. Undo the brake stay on the right side of your bike. Now loosen the left side axel nut, partially support the weight of the wheel together with your foot, & pull out your axel. Your chain adjusters & wheel spacers will fall to the ground as you remove your axel. Be mindful of spacer location as they vary from bike to bike & will lead to an un-centered wheel if put back in the wrong order. You can now replace the front & rear sprockets. Keep in mind not to upset your bike while it is on the middle stand. The machine ought to always be balanced in such a way that the front finish is weighed. Thread your new chain around the front sprocket. Reassemble the rear wheel in the swing arm & make sure the chain adjuster is positioned to give you tons of slack in your chain.
 
The part about putting on the new chain is missing. What kind of tools are needed to connect the new chain and how is the new chain held together?
 
Yes unfortunately the links are broken, Sportrider left the forum some time ago, so I'm afraid we have no way to correct this (as it was a nice how to Vid) :(
 
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