How much paint do I need?

[cmpfz6]

How much paint do I need?

Hi all, a couple of simple questions for the paint buffs out there - I want to repaint my fairings in the original colour. I haven't been able to find my paint code so I'm unsure which metallic black it is. It's a 2005 FZ6S and as far as I can tell diamond black was the colour of choice for that year, right?

I've found this site for the paint:

RS Motorbike Paint Colours - Motorcycle paint, bike paint, Kawasaki Honda Yamaha

Assuming I want to paint all parts except the tank which has a few light scratches but is otherwise ok, how much do I need? Options are 250, 400, 500, 750 or 1000ml for paint and 400, 500 or 1000ml for lacquer. Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=15400]cmpfz6[/MENTION]
Over here they won't sell much less than a qt of paint. So for a bike and if you were doing the tank (i know you said no), you'd have some left over. I sprayed my brother in-laws HD sportster with a color coat only, no clear and used up the whole thing. Fenders, tank, mirrors, & oil tank.

I would not recommend lacquer as it just won't hold up to the elements.

Lets say you spray down a base coat only no clear in base color of black w/out metallic in it. If you laid down 4 heavy coats when it got dull you could buff it for a couple years or work scratches out of it. The same paint w/metallic in it, and you start color sanding to get a scratch out and it looks horrible as the matallic is all cut at different depths.

SO, if you spray metallic colors like the Raven Black, you need a base coat and clear coat. The base has no gloss (so the clear sticks to it and the clear does all the protection from the elements. In this case you'd want both to be catalyzed enamel so its hardened and will wear.

Go talk to a paint shop that mixes colors but if I had to go down this path, this is where I'd begin. A base coat clear coat (2 part system) that's hardened.

Good luck what ever you decide!

PS - I've painted the interior (doing a color change) of a couple cars in the drive way. As long as the wind isn't blowing you can get away with little projects. A paint booth with proper lighting is much preferred tho!

 

[cmpfz6]

Thanks, (Randy, right?) Wow that seems like a lotta paint! Tell me, how many coats would a quart provide? I figured 2x 400ml aerosol cans would probably cover what I need, especially seeing as I don't plan to do the tank; I have a dark tinted screen which makes up a large proportion of the front of the bike so it's mainly the sides, seat cowlings and grab rails which need to be refreshed. That said, I still want to do a good job so is it realistic to manage this with aerosol cans? I have a feeling the 'lacquer' they're selling is probably just the term they're using for clear coat but I would check before buying.

I do want to be sure it's the right colour to match the tank; I can't find the paint code having looked under the seat but I'm pretty sure it's DNMB, Diamond Black. Given that it's a 2005 model with black wheels, silver frame and silver engine, can anyone confirm? Thanks.

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes, it is.
So the goal is something like this;
Pre-mixed, canned ready for spraying and maybe a clear topcoat? Take a peek at this thread. I did my bars and rear sets with rattle can and then baked on an ceramic enamel clear. It held up pretty well. Bars are still paint and match well imo. But i redid the rear sets and levers, top triple in powder coat. I listed the products used and per round one, baked it on. Let me know if you have any questions.... http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/42859-metalic-black-paint-add-ons.html

EDIT: added pic....

Trying to find a pic of the painted rear sets comparing it to side pods, tank, fairing, etc.

Its hard to see the difference here but above is paint, below is PC.
Visible powder coat is rear sets, brake lever, top triple and clamp. Bars are painted (tried to match the tank)...

 

[cmpfz6]

Correct, I have a few air tools but not a spray gun or any of the other kit needed so I'll go with the rattle cans, temperatures here are not extreme; up into the 90s would be a very rare occurrence, but I appreciate it's best to get a good clear coat. Like I said, I'll try to get some answers from the paint supplier to see what their clear coat 'lacquer' is like, if not good I'll look for other options.

Looks like your parts worked out really nice, I actually brushed off my rear sets recently as they were a little worn, may repaint, but IMO they look alright as raw brushed aluminium. They haven't been road tested yet though so it may well be that they get clogged up with crap - time will tell. I'm look at replacing the stock levers with new ones but gave the stock ones the same treatment, used a brass wire brush to freshen them slightly and they look better for it. I'll update on progress later