How do you get R6 power in a FZ6

I would like to see a turbocharged streetfighter FZ-6. Driving normally would have minimal power over stock, but then open it up and let it build some boost and you'd be haulin'. Doubt it would be very practical though, :(, and it would be pretty expensive. If I win the lottery some day, I'll do it though. I'd be interested to see some dyno numbers on a big bore kit too.
 
The mounting points on the R6 enigne and FZ6 engine are the same as far as I am concerned but there area a number of adjustments in recent years that i have not been able to look at on the new model R6 engines.

However the basic fact is the engines are completely different in design. The stroke and bore and different on both so swapping cams whatever doesn't work. Popular misconception it seems but the engines don't have interchangable parts.

FZ6
compression ratio: 12.2:1
Bore x stroke: 65.5 x 44.5 mm (2.6 x 1.8 inches)

R6
Compression: 13.1:1
Bore x stroke: 67.0 x 42.5 mm (2.6 x 1.7 inches)

The location for the clutch is competely different which might be your biggest problem and then there are other stuff like EGR which i would check if the damn R6 has but someone has lost the Workshop Manual disc. needless to say if thats different you have to change the airbox too.
 
VenturiSection said:
The mounting points on the R6 enigne and FZ6 engine are the same as far as I am concerned but there area a number of adjustments in recent years that i have not been able to look at on the new model R6 engines.

However the basic fact is the engines are completely different in design. The stroke and bore and different on both so swapping cams whatever doesn't work. Popular misconception it seems but the engines don't have interchangable parts.

FZ6
compression ratio: 12.2:1
Bore x stroke: 65.5 x 44.5 mm (2.6 x 1.8 inches)

R6
Compression: 13.1:1
Bore x stroke: 67.0 x 42.5 mm (2.6 x 1.7 inches)

The location for the clutch is competely different which might be your biggest problem and then there are other stuff like EGR which i would check if the damn R6 has but someone has lost the Workshop Manual disc. needless to say if thats different you have to change the airbox too.
Click to expand...

For the R6 yes, for the R6S they are the same B & S. The R6S has a higher compression ratio of 12.4 vs. 12.2 compared to the FZ6.
 
It is my understanding that our engine is based off of the 2005 R6 engine which won all of those races and then was continued into the R6S because it was such a good bike and they changed the whole thing for '06. This means that our engine is not based off of the CURRENT GENERATION R6 engine, but the 2005 R6 engine and the 2006+ R6S which are the same, which I think is where people are getting confused.

Is this right:

'05 R6 = '06+ R6S = base for our engine
'06+ R6 =! any of them

?
 
dako81 said:
It is my understanding that our engine is based off of the 2005 R6 engine which won all of those races and then was continued into the R6S because it was such a good bike and they changed the whole thing for '06. This means that our engine is not based off of the CURRENT GENERATION R6 engine, but the 2005 R6 engine and the 2006+ R6S which are the same, which I think is where people are getting confused.

Is this right:

'05 R6 = '06+ R6S = base for our engine
'06+ R6 =! any of them

?
Click to expand...

Yes! You've got it. The current R6 engine is a short stroke, ours is a "long" stroke. The short stroke allows for higher rpms.

You can go up to 2mm over bore on our engine, giving 635cc.
 
Hellgate said:
Yes! You've got it. The current R6 engine is a short stroke, ours is a "long" stroke. The short stroke allows for higher rpms.

You can go up to 2mm over bore on our engine, giving 635cc.
Click to expand...

Yeah but after you bore it who re-coats the cylinders?
 
dako81 said:
It is my understanding that our engine is based off of the 2005 R6 engine which won all of those races and then was continued into the R6S because it was such a good bike and they changed the whole thing for '06. This means that our engine is not based off of the CURRENT GENERATION R6 engine, but the 2005 R6 engine and the 2006+ R6S which are the same, which I think is where people are getting confused.

Is this right:

'05 R6 = '06+ R6S = base for our engine
'06+ R6 =! any of them

?
Click to expand...

From what I've read our engine is based on the 2003 R6 engine

Here is a link...
Yamaha FZ6 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
Last edited:
christod1 said:
From what I've read our engine is based on the 2003 R6 engine

Here is a link...
Yamaha FZ6 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Click to expand...

Think about this, when the rework of the Fazer occurred in 2003 the only engine available to mimic was that of the then current R6. As reported at the time the new Fazer was introduced the 2004 FZ6 had a retuned or detuned R6 powerplant. There are however significant differences between the two. Things like cam profile and throttle bore just to name a couple.

To me, thinking about making the FZ6 engine an R6 engine in an effort to gain power is a waste of time. Rather, I would first consider the one thing that truly makes sense. The current 2008 R6 uses a 525 chain with a 15T front and a 48T rear sprocket on the final drive; 3.2:1. The current 2008 FZ6 uses a 530 chain with a 16T front and 46T rear sprocket on the final drive; 2.87:1. Now, this is a huge difference in gearing and I can tell you first hand that switching the 16T front sprocket out on the FZ6 to the 15T of the R6 flat launches the FZ6 and this only takes the final drive ratio out to 3.06:1 or basically half way to that of the R6 at 3.20:1.

In either case you will lose top end however, reaching top speed will be so much faster and in those tight twisty areas with short shoot straightaways the R6 gearing will give the FZ6 a huge improvement in time to speed. Remember, you have no chance of reaching top speed in these areas that are quite often where most riders consider the playground. So, you will in effect gain a mechanical advantage over any other FZ6 and the fun factor just went through the roof...... Oh, did I mention this can be done for under $200usd?
 
HavBlue said:
Yeah but after you bore it who re-coats the cylinders?
Click to expand...

Dunno, but I'm sure JE or Wiseco could suggest someone to re-coat. I'm in semi-conductor equipment and we use very similar technology in some of the parts we use, I'm sure even one of our suppliers may be able to do it.
 
Hellgate said:
Dunno, but I'm sure JE or Wiseco could suggest someone to re-coat. I'm in semi-conductor equipment and we use very similar technology in some of the parts we use, I'm sure even one of our suppliers may be able to do it.
Click to expand...


Punching out the 600 to gain 35cc would be my last choice her but one thing is a certain fact, if I had that engine torn down every bearing in that thing would be silicone nitrite Si3N4. That alone would make a measurable horsepower gain and reduce the weight of each bearing exchanged by 40 percent.
 
Ummm. The FZ6 is a 600cc.....


Boneman said:
Sorry, but I'm not really "getting it" with all these "I want more power out of my FZ6" post as of late...

Want more power...don't buy a 500cc FZ6 then. sheesh.

I have to ask how long people have even had their FZ6's before they start asking this question? Are they even winding it out and/or shifting properly? Are they riding the bike to it's full potential (probably not)? If it's too slow, then upgrade to something else. Sure you can eek out some extra horses with exhaust, airbox and sproket upgrades.

"Oh but I like the FZ6 though" - Well there is always a VFR, countless BMW's, FJR or the FZ1 if you want more power while maintaining a comfy ride.

It's like people wanting their VW Bug to run like a Ferarri, but they don't want the Ferarri....they jsut want the same power and looks....

The FZ6 is what it is. It's a mid range commuter/touring bike that is very capible for what it was designed to do. Take it or leave it.
Click to expand...
 
HavBlue said:
Punching out the 600 to gain 35cc would be my last choice her but one thing is a certain fact, if I had that engine torn down every bearing in that thing would be silicone nitrite Si3N4. That alone would make a measurable horsepower gain and reduce the weight of each bearing exchanged by 40 percent.
Click to expand...

I forgot to metion that in addition to the 35cc, 37ccs actually, my mistake, ;) you also get one full point in compression. That is the money maker.

I'm mixed on ceramic bearing. There is a tiny bit of friction loss. The biggest gain that I can really see is lonjevity (sp??) in bearing life in extreme conditions.
 
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