HID in the wrong direction

[aclayonb]

You have what we call, in Southern Indiana, a squirrel light. This is incredibly lucky - take this bike hunting. Most of us have to crash our trucks into stationary objects several times to achieve this fabled headlight setup.

 

[Circuitrider]

If you feel it will have sufficient clamping power you could file off the indexing nub and straighten the Beam out .

I had to do something similar with my goldwing recently when I retroed a pair of morimoto mini in.

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Did you use a file or Dremyl? Do you have any suggestions to make it more secure? Another washer perhaps?

 

[lawlberg]

I'd say use locktite and make yourself a thin rubber washer to put between the threaded ring and the plate. The rubber should help keep it from threading out, mine has more vibrations than it should I'd say, and at the beginning I realized I didn't have it secured well enough and it got a bit loose on me.

 

[elus1ve]

Looks to me like a defective hid kit. The headlight bulb slot seems to be properly oriented leaving the projector be defective.

Compare the headlight with another one. The bulb slot on the headlight should have one point (longer) middle top and two on each lower side when.

The teeth on the projector / mount should align directly with these and there should be only one way to put it in. If the cut off light is not straight, then your projector is defective. Double check your setup n get a replacement when u r sure it's the projector that's faulty. You shouldn't have to mod.

The slopped light is quite hilarious though.

 

[FIZZER6]

You are on the right track. Do what you have to to get the cutoff line of the beam to sit horizontally level.

The only problem I see other than that is you clearly have 8000K or 10000K HID bulbs which produce almost half the usable light of standard 4300K HID bulbs. The higher the Kelvin value the more blue the light is and blue light is heading toward the ultraviolet end of the spectrum and UV light is black light.

Here's what your cutoff should look like with the bike sitting level:

 

[bigdog9191999]

I ha e access to a carbide air tool that I would have used.


My situation was that Honda uses their own pattern for their bulb and not a standard h4. And it is isnt level either! So I used an adapter for the Honda pattern and cut the legs off the standard h4 adapter and laid them over each other so I could achieve enough clamping to hold them .

I had intended to cut the indexing ring to level them. But didn't have to.


But as long as there is enough force that it will hold it well and not rotate then I would trim the tab off and rotate level and give it a go

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[Circuitrider]

I like the Loctite idea. Plus if I just grind down the tab, I can always get another tab. Some of the other methods either ruin the housing or projector.

I have ordered a 6000K bulb to get the light more white and also more legal. I was thinking about a piece of PVC with end caps and the bulb wrapped in foam so I can keep a spare on board just in case.

I'm going to try and fix this today. Hopefully I can get the throttle cables in! Ron Ayers hasn't even shipped them yet!

 

[bigdog9191999]

you should end up looking like the post above mine but it does not look like yours has the step like shown above or like mine are as most projectors have a step.


mine, and it is not perfectly level as i was just sitting on the bike and it was not on the center stand





my bike






edit to add that i think if space allowed a silicone washer between the projector body and the light housing would be about the best to hold it secure ( with adiquate clamping force from the mount screw) but that means taking everything apart, and like mine i did not have the room to do so so i just had to clamp it tight and hope for the best ( it felt strudy, and so far so good! )

 

[Circuitrider]

It has a large silicone washer installed already. I'm going to file the tab off the H4 adapter, put the H7 adapter over the H4 with the tab going into the projector at the necessary adjusted angle and loctite the adapters together. I'll also thread lock the nut where everything is sturdy. That should keep things from rotating or being loose.

 

[Circuitrider]

So I took the whole thing, removed the nut, washer, and H7 adapter. I marked the horizontal based on the headlight housing on the the H4 adapter. I took a sharpie and straight edge and marked the line. I made sure to turn the projector so that the shutter was parallel to the line. I marked the spot where the tab should go from the H7.

I took the H4 and a grinder bit on my Dremel and took it down to flush. Then I took the H7 and lined it up with my markings. I took JB Weld and used it to stick the two pieces together and held them together with vice grips. I'll take thread lock once it is all in and I'm reinstalling the locking nut that holds the projector securely inside the headlamp housing.

This has become way more complicated than it should have been, but I only paid $37 for the projector, so I suppose you get what you pay for!

 

[bigdog9191999]

Not sure I would make the two adapters together. Cause if it is not straight then you are stuck that way. I just laid them together and the clamp force should keep them in line.



I started with this






Here you can see the difference in Mount pattern . and it still don't Mount straight. Which is the reason I stacked them so I could rotate to get straight. ( a little more critical / noticeable being I have two projectors )








It worked out well





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[Circuitrider]

It worked. The line is now straight. All is well!

 

[bigdog9191999]

Pics or it didn't happen![emoji2]

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[Circuitrider]

I'll take it! After the more "white" bulbs come it will be better.

 

[bigdog9191999]

That is more like it! Congratulations!

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