fz6 fazer temperature

[romlin]

I have a 2004 fz6 fazer. When I am out on it riding the temperature is fine when I stop at the light or that it go’s up the gage. But the moment is start moving it came’s back down to normal. The fan kicks in when I think it should and were expansion chamber say about the same. Any one know what mite be up

 

[Mancolt]

I'm having some difficulty understanding your question:

Your temperature rises when your bike is not moving, but goes back down when you are moving? Is that correct?

As long as your bike is not getting too hot, I wouldn't be concerned. Bikes will generally go up in temperature when stopped, especially if in traffic. Riding around at 5-6k RPM will cool the bike down because of the increased airflow, and maybe other factors that someone can enlighten us about. But mine also gets warmer when stopped in traffic.

 

[romlin]

yes but it go's right 2 the top of the gage did not thingk it should do that

 

[Mancolt]

Wish I could help you. My 2007 has a digital gauge that displays an actual temperature value. At idle, in traffic, I've seen it at around 212-220ish. Depends on the ambient air temperature as well. I don't know what that correlates to on your bar gauge though so you'll have to wait for someone else to chime in.

 

[romlin]

thanks for the help any why

 

[RJ2112]

I have a 2004 fz6 fazer. When I am out on it riding the temperature is fine when I stop at the light or that it go’s up the gage. But the moment is start moving it came’s back down to normal. The fan kicks in when I think it should and were expansion chamber say about the same. Any one know what mite be up

Typical temp readings on the 'bar' scale, should be around the 3-4 range in motion in a 60-70 degree F environment. That will probably climb a couple of bars, if you are in stop and go traffic.

If it's maxxing out, and you can hear the fan running (and can see the blades moving)..... I'd think your radiator fins may be clogged up with debris. If you have access to a garden hose, I would suggest back flushing it to blow any crud between the cooling fins back out the front. No air flow through the cooling fins would make the system less effective. The more clogged they are the higher the core temp of the bike will be.

The bit about the overflow tank is a concern. If we are talking about the same tank (right side under seat, near rear brake reservoir) When the bike is cold, the level should be at the lower mark, and at the higher mark when it's all the way warmed up. What color is your coolant, and do you know when it was changed last? Does the level change as I have described?

 

[romlin]

i will try the hose on it. Yes we are talking about the same take under the seat. It is doing what u said

 

[RJ2112]

i will try the hose on it. Yes we are talking about the same take under the seat. It is doing what u said

The radiator fin flush is one of the rare times I think more pressure is better than less.

I have one of those brass nozzles for my garden hose, that you can twist to change the spray pattern. Anything from a cone of mist to a solid stream, 1/4" in diameter. The solid stream is what I use for this job.

If you spray the back of the radiator fins as close to straight on as you can, you should see water easily flowing out the front of the radiator, right where the stream is hitting the fins. If you are not getting water to flow through there, obviously air isn't going to do so either.

If it's really clogged up, I have found that a zip tie poked through the gaps will push out the schlock.... gentle is better than brutal. If you can clear it without the pokey thing, you're better off. If you need to use the pokey thing, it's a lot like mating porcupines. Gently.

 

[Mancolt]

If you need to use the pokey thing, it's a lot like mating porcupines. Gently.

:rof: That's great RJ!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Whens the last time you changed out your coolant? If its old, its not helping any...