FZ6 Chain question

[mave2911]

Ok, I have a question that I've been pondering.

On most of the bikes I have owned, last generation or earlier (CB750/4K1(67HP), CB750/4F(70HP), Kawasaki Z750(55HP) etc), I have always had a split link (joining link) for easy removal of the chain.

Now I ride the FZ6(76HP), which obviously doesn't use a spit link - I'm left to ponder why?

Is it because the split link isn't strong enough and the FZ6 is too powerful, or is it because it's modeled on the R6, and the R6 needs the extra strength?

I'm considering a 520 conversion and new sprockets in the foreseeable future (5000kms or two months) and am wondering if the split joining link isn't a good idea?

Thoughts, opinions, comments appreciated.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[iSteve]

I've been riding for a little over 30 years and only a few of my dirt bikes came with a master link. Of course most of my replacement chains would use a master link. I have never had any problems with master links but a endless chain does give me a feeling of conference.

I think a master link is just as strong as the rest of the chain but you are dependent on a little clip holding the link together.

 

[mave2911]

I have never had any problems with master links but a endless chain does give me a feeling of conference.

I think a master link is just as strong as the rest of the chain but you are dependent on a little clip holding the link together.

I've never had a split (or master) link separate, so I feel as confident with it

As for the little clip if you install it so the opening is facing opposite to the direction of the chain travel, and don't ride off-road, where a stick or twig could cause it to snap off, then I again see no problem with it.

Remember, there is no strain or stress on the clip - all of that is taken by the link plate, the clip just holds the link plate on.

So, anyway, I'm still looking for reasons against installing a split (or master) link on my new chain?

Cheers,
Rick

 

[djstrong]

I believe the master link is equal to the continuous chain for durability.

Failure of most chains is wearing out, or links binding, Not breakage.

Probably in mass production it costs less to make a continuous chain than to have a person assemble a master link. But for replacing a chain, it is easier to have a master.
A Service chain also can be "cut to length" so there does not have to be a specific chain length sold for every bike.

Just an opinion.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Below are the spec's on DID chains:

D.I.D. Racing Chains & Dirt Starâ„¢ Rims

The X ring (superior to the regular O-ring) 530 chain isn't available with a clip master link. The same chain in a 520 is...

The only thing that comes to mind is with the o-ring, x-ring chains vs a regular NON-o-ring chain, the sealing rings may exert some side pressure on the outer plate. Perhaps the clip style master link is borderline holding the "slight side load" of the rings pushing out...

I just replaced my chain with a VX 530 x-ring chain. There are actual spec's on how flat/wide the riveting master link should be so the link isn't put on too tight or too loose...

I sprung for an actual DID masterlink tool as I didn't want to chance screwing up the ML on a $140.00 chain (This is the first permanent link I've ever installed) :

( DID KM501E Sport Cutting and Riveting Tool - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore )

Kind of expensive however, between the genuine DID master link and the tool, you CANNOT OVER TIGHTEN the link. I literallly tightened probably 10 times so I wouldn't over tighten the ML. In the end, the tool needed to be tightened down fully, until it stopped for the correct spacing/tightness of the link.

Should you need to remove the riveted chain, it can be done fairly easily without damaging the chain but of course, you'll need a new masterlink..

Once I installed the chain, ( I did look for a regular clip on masterlink) and the rivit link, its really not a big deal. There's apparently a reason DID doesn't make a clip ML. Once you have a tool, its really a piece of cake... I've never needed to remove the chain for cleaning/lubing, I've always done it on the bike installed..


BTW, I did later find the same tool $20.00 cheaper elsewhere so you can get it for $80.00 (the Superstore will match the lower price BEFORE you purchase theirs).. And no, no assosiation with the Superstore but the chain was a very good price and quick, free shipping...

 

[mave2911]

Well, there's another couple of points for the split link then - a $4 split link, compared to buying an $80 tool. And you can't over tighten a split link....

If I carry a spare split link in my tool kit (as I've always done), then IF the clip came off, and IF it didn't foul in the sprockets, then the chain would just lay out behind the bike.

I was looking at the Supersprox 520 conversion kit - costs about $US233 ex shipping (direct from Supersprox USA, or can be found cheaper on eBay), and is an x-ring chain and the rear sprocket has an alloy hub but steel teeth for longevity, plus the $4ea for split links.

Still leaning this way, but really want to see if there's a good reason not to....

Cheers,
Rick

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Honestly, I think Yamaha and newer bike makers just put continuous chains on because of good old fashioned CYA. :don'tknow:

 

[Andz]

There are actual spec's on how flat/wide the riveting master link should be so the link isn't put on too tight or too loose...

Come on then, out with it... before I ride mine with its new chain!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Come on then, out with it... before I ride mine with its new chain!

D.I.D. Racing Chains & Dirt Starâ„¢ Rims

Unfortunatly, when I was at this page, it had in red, how wide the rivet end ITSELF should be which sets how close (or far apart) the chain plates are...

Its not showing now, but does show how wide the plates themselves are...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, there's another couple of points for the split link then - a $4 split link, compared to buying an $80 tool. And you can't over tighten a split link....

If I carry a spare split link in my tool kit (as I've always done), then IF the clip came off, and IF it didn't foul in the sprockets, then the chain would just lay out behind the bike.

I was looking at the Supersprox 520 conversion kit - costs about $US233 ex shipping (direct from Supersprox USA, or can be found cheaper on eBay), and is an x-ring chain and the rear sprocket has an alloy hub but steel teeth for longevity, plus the $4ea for split links.

Still leaning this way, but really want to see if there's a good reason not to....

Cheers,
Rick

Hopefully, if the clip should come off (I've never seen the clip come off) the chain doesn't go thru the engine case. Should it come off, you know its going to happen while moving..

IMHO, with the rivet masterlink, there is NO CHANCE of the link coming apart destroying an engine... Worth $80.00 IMHO but to each his own...

 

[fb40dash5]

Hopefully, if the clip should come off (I've never seen the clip come off) the chain doesn't go thru the engine case. Should it come off, you know its going to happen while moving..

IMHO, with the rivet masterlink, there is NO CHANCE of the link coming apart destroying an engine... Worth $80.00 IMHO but to each his own...

I debated this same question. I've been told by about everyone (none with firsthand experience though) that if I put on a clip like, OMG I'm gonna die the first time I ride and it's going to trash the case, and whip me in the head!!!!! :BLAA:

In the end, I spent $75 on the Motion Pro PBR tool. Local shops wanted $100 to replace the chain, and it's not like I could have it done off the bike to save $$$. So I already saved $25 and a trip to the shop, and now I have a tool that I can use, and maybe even make a few bucks doing chains for others with. The whole thing took me maybe half an hour, and that was stopping to read the instructions on each step since it was my first time, looking at the chain package for sideplate tightness specs, even replacing the rear sprocket. I don't have a clue how a shop justifies charging an hour for the job.

I can say that RK offers a clip link for the 530XSO X-ring chains. I'd buy one for a spare, but it wouldn't do much good without carrying a chain tool with me anyway.