FZ6 bought today!! need 'General' service info

[TownsendsFJR1300]

well...the weekends over, 150 miles covered, and ONLY in the last couple of miles discovered the mid range power bands - it's like a NEW new bike, can't believe the difference in power when you let it rev

Did you ever get the front wheeel "light" as in it doesn't steer in first gear?

 

[1Animal1]

Erm nope? merely hit 10k RPM in 3rd as a Golf GTi decided to have a go

Your scaring me now haha - is that as close to a wheely I'm likely to get, in first?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Erm nope? merely hit 10k RPM in 3rd as a Golf GTi decided to have a go

Your scaring me now haha - is that as close to a wheely I'm likely to get, in first?

Stock gearing, power wheeling (no clutch popping), strictly torque.

Nail it in first gear once rolling, when you see about 8k RPM's plus, steering usually stops working. Maybe 6" :spank: :thumbup:

You've been warned and I certainly don't condone this hoodlumism!!! I've heard that'll happen..


Don't crash, I replace parts and don't do bondo....

 

[1Animal1]

haha!! cheers for the advice as always

I've made a decision! the bikes going to work for every dry day we have

I've just ordered 5litres of Motul 5100, Hiflow oil filter (Purolator not available in UK ). Cable oiler on its away along with magnetic oil drain plug - I think I'll leave the coolant for another few k's

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

haha!! cheers for the advice as always

I've made a decision! the bikes going to work for every dry day we have

I've just ordered 5litres of Motul 5100, Hiflow oil filter (Purolator not available in UK ). Cable oiler on its away along with magnetic oil drain plug - I think I'll leave the coolant for another few k's

When you do the clutch cable, take a single piece of paper towel, fold it down to about 2" wide by 6" long. Sneak it in with a thin screwdriver directly UNDER THE CLUTCH CABLE where it bends just above the middle of the engine.

Excess oil tends to leak out of there, run down thru the cracks and crevices and then suddenly you'll have an oil leak on the floor saying, oh s...!

Don't ask how I know. There's currently that size piece of paper towel right there as I type...


A little grease on the clutch lever pivot bolt and clutch cable barrel end won't hurt either while your there...

 

[1Animal1]

Is the clutch cable where it goes into the top of the engine visible from the side of the bike? Gather from what you;re saying that the towel needs to stay there for a bit

I'll google when i get it - but it's not immediately obvious how i use the clamp?

Edit: Got around to checking the tyre pressures this morning when it was cold, going for 40psi rear and 35psi front..... they were both on 25psi! :/

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is the clutch cable where it goes into the top of the engine visible from the side of the bike? Gather from what you;re saying that the towel needs to stay there for a bit

I'll google when i get it - but it's not immediately obvious how i use the clamp?

Edit: Got around to checking the tyre pressures this morning when it was cold, going for 40psi rear and 35psi front..... they were both on 25psi! :/

Yep, the clutch cable comes down on the inside of the left frame (as you sit on the bike), you'll see the cable cross over the engine and the outer end(that you see looking down while seated on the right) goes to the actual clutch lever arm on the engine case... Your lubing from the top, down..

You just loosen the cable adjuster at the bar and remove the cable from the perch. The cable oiler slips over the end of the cable (with the tool bolts(s) loose). Slide it over until it fits snug, then tighten the tool nut(s) snuggly.

Wrap some paper towel around the can straw insertion point as it will get messy... As for the towel, I just leave it in there, you can't really see it unless you look real hard for it. I'd give it at least a couple of days, you'll see it discolor as oil and crap exit the cable over time.. And the clutch will be so much easier to use..

BTW, that bike will ride/handle completely different with the correct amount of air in the tires. They'll be a BIG DIFFERENCE...

 

[mave2911]

40psi for the rear is a bit high, methinks.

I run 36F and 38R and it's bewdiful! (I also run nitrogen in my tyres, so the pressures stay there)

Cheers,
Rick

 

[1Animal1]

Rightyho! Cheers Scott.... The cable stuff has turned up today so I'll give it a bash later in the week....

I definitely feel more confident with the right pressures, though couldn't lay my finger on it like I could with the car.... must be cos I'm concentrating on other things at the moment

Another day on the bike to work..... I'm going to have to 'UP' the mileage on the insurance

Mave - the user guide say's 42psi for the back for between 90-180kgs (If i remember right) - I'm 6'3 and 14 stone (90kgs?) so reduced it slightly with that in mind... what do you have Scott?

Todays purchases: Luggage net for my work shoe bag (save me using the top box). Braces for my troooosers (loose as have to wear over a suit) and a new visor, as I've some how made a mess of the protective coating

Tim

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The word your looking for re the low pressure now at the correct is that the bike is NOW "nimble", the sluggish handling should have gone away...


I keep mine at 36 PSI in the front(PR2), 42 PSI in the back(PR3). I'm about 200 lbs.


Yea, I know different style tires, the Infamous key took out my 1,000 mile PR2 back tire.

The front is still in excellent shape (3rd rear tire to the front, a staple got the previous PR2) so its staying on until worn or I find another key for the front tire

 

[1Animal1]

yeah it probably is more nimble - Tell you what I have noticed, these last 2 mornings have been a bit windy - the bike tends to shake at 70mph ish speeds which is worrying.... wondering if the touring screen might be worth its weight in gold? divert some of the air around and above me....

Tyres aren't too expensive on these are they?... mine are both Pirelli's with 500 miles on both? thought it a bit strange that the previous owner changed both before 6k miles.... maybe got a deal i suspect...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

yeah it probably is more nimble - Tell you what I have noticed, these last 2 mornings have been a bit windy - the bike tends to shake at 70mph ish speeds which is worrying.... wondering if the touring screen might be worth its weight in gold? divert some of the air around and above me....

Tyres aren't too expensive on these are they?... mine are both Pirelli's with 500 miles on both? thought it a bit strange that the previous owner changed both before 6k miles.... maybe got a deal i suspect...

Depends on what tires you get and where you get them.

My local shop (private guy), I got my rear PR3 (I bought the tire wheel down WO the bike) mounted and balanced for about $190 out the door) on a Friday, at 4pm, while I waited.

I know you can sometime get them cheaper on line, especially as a set, but I don't feel comfortable bringing in tires from elsewhere to a guys shop that I've known for over 20 years. They take good care of me, will order stuff with no deposit just on my word..

 

[1Animal1]

Well...not one to disappoint and leave out my daily activity log....

Bikes remained in hiding today, mixture of heavy fog and light rain (have to love the UK :/)

I've decided not to bother with the daily ride to work whens its really cold, for some reason my face feels like I've got out of bed after the 10 mile journey - eyes are like p**s holes in the snow!

 

[n0other]

What model of Hiflo air filter did you get? Was it HFA 4612? I've bought the same but I'm not happy with how it fits, it has a fair bit of freeplay when in the frame, not to the point of leaking air unfiltered through the sides, but it moves up to 5mm when seated, OEM doesn't move at all. How was yours?

EDIT: Ahh, I now see that it's an oil filter you're talking about, nevermind then, ignore my rant about their air filters.

haha!! cheers for the advice as always

I've made a decision! the bikes going to work for every dry day we have

I've just ordered 5litres of Motul 5100, Hiflow oil filter (Purolator not available in UK ). Cable oiler on its away along with magnetic oil drain plug - I think I'll leave the coolant for another few k's

 

[mave2911]

I got the K&N washable filter, and it seals very well.

I certainly wouldn't be using a filter that didn't, as it defeats the purpose of having an air-filter at all.

Cheers,
Rick

Edit: Found a link on the K&N website - http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=YA-6004 (same filter for S1 and S2 FZ6)

 

[n0other]

I'll probably move to K&N at some point now that I have PCIII, good point bringing it up.

The HFA4612 doesn't leak air, it moves sideways in the airbox, but the seals are completely within frame still. It's a bit shorter in length but has the same width if that makes sense. I would not buy it again though.

I got the K&N washable filter, and it seals very well.

I certainly wouldn't be using a filter that didn't, as it defeats the purpose of having an air-filter at all.

Cheers,
Rick

Edit: Found a link on the K&N website - YA-6004 - K&N Replacement Filters, Replacement Air Filter direct from K&N (same filter for S1 and S2 FZ6)

 

[Cortez]

Going through the service book.... what do you guys get the bike running at on warmed up idle, book states 1250-1350 but mines more 1k - should i adjust? Is this normal to have to adjust this at this mileage?


Edit : Googled and adjusted accordingly

Hello from a new owner!
Would you mnd sharing how the idle is
adjusted? Don't make me google on my
cell phone now..

Also, my throttle seems to take a lot more
effort to turn and is a bit slow to roll back
compared to other bikes I owned.
Is this normal or...?

Greets to everyone from Croatia!

 

[DavesFZ]

Silver screw poking out on left side just under the tank.

Edit: You may have to lube the throttle cable or it's binding somewhere. I had that same problem when I had a cramp buster too far outside on the throttle grip, causing it to pinch the bar end.

 

[Cortez]

Cool, thanks!