Front wheel assembly - Front wheel axle pinch bolt

[MrMogensen]

Just got a brand new Pilot Road 4 front wheel - can't wait to ride again!

Now in the middle of reinstalling front wheel between front forks...
Everything seems simple enough. I have fitted everything except "front wheel axle pinch bolt" (look at page 4-1 in the 2004 service manual).

I am wondering about something. The front wheel axle itself doesn't do anything to keep the front forks together. It seems like it only keeps the alligned. With the front wheel axle pinch bolt loosened I can easily squeeze the right hand side fork a little bit further inward. Looks as if the right hand side collar has a millimeter gab to the right hand side fork.

Question: Should I actively squeeze the front forks together while tightening the front wheel axle pinch bolt? I am pretty sure that there was no gab at all when I took it all appart.

 

[beatle]

No, you are actually flexing the forks when you squeeze them together. The forks are aligned via the triple clamps.

 

[MrMogensen]

No, you are actually flexing the forks when you squeeze them together. The forks are aligned via the triple clamps.

Thanks
Makes sense!!

 

[FinalImpact]

I disagree. Although the manual does not state to push the forks together, not doing so misaligns the caliper to rotor so the rotor is no longer centered.

What are the chances one or both of the forks are either tweaked or the triple clamps are not aligned?

Chances are it was that way all along but your options are: do nothing and shove it together like it was.
1) Loosen ONE stanchion tube clamp (top and bottom of the triples) and rotate one stanchion tube 90°. Snug up triple pinch bolts and verify gap. Repeat 2X and if there is no change, do the other stanchion tube.

2) Take the forks out and verify their trueness.

3) Lastly with the wheel removed: Loosen the TOP triple pinch bolts. Loosen the stem nut and lift up slightly on top triple. Allow the lower triple to be the guide. Tension the stem nut to torque spec and Tighten triple pinch bolts. Verify gap.

 

[beatle]

True, all bets are off if the forks are actually bent!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you simply removed the wheel for a new tire, assemble as you did BUT keeping the pinch bolt loose..

Now, put the bike on the ground and work the forks up and down with the front brakes on.

**That centers everything up**.

Tighten the pinch bolt to spec's.

Done..

 

[MrMogensen]

I'll be doing this later today just to make sure... even though front wheel spins freely in this position - also after applying brakes.

Thinking back the front fork has had the same position as before I removed the wheel (including the small gap).
If I squeese the forks together then the head of the front wheel axle will just sligtly protrude from the side of the fork => My for slider won't have a perfect fit as before.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Its your bike, do as you wish.

Pushing the forks together against their natural state of rest, your putting them in a binding state (ever so slight) and the brake calibers, etc, are now NOT setting dead square, even with the rotors, etc..

Its in the shop manual and if you simply think about it, it makes sense..

 

[dbldutch02]

Its your bike, do as you wish.

Pushing the forks together against their natural state of rest, your putting them in a binding state (ever so slight) and the brake calibers, etc, are now NOT setting dead square, even with the rotors, etc..

Its in the shop manual and if you simply think about it, it makes sense..

I can vouch for this - if you squeeze them together you are putting sideways pressure on the seals, in my case showing as a damp left fork. Releasing the pinch bolt, working the forks, then tightening the bolt in that position is the correct way to do it.