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Any updates Tom?
Was thinking about looking for a used throttle body assembly and scarfing the injectors from there. Or waiting to the off-season and sending mine...New injectors are ~$160 (ronayers.com)...and rebuilds go for a fraction of that cost (all 4 can be rebuilt for the cost of one replacement). While I haven't had to rebuild a FI, I wouldn't hesitate to have them rebuilt. At 80K miles or 6 billion cycles (5,000 rpm x 60 x 80,000 divided by 4) they may be a little tired.
You might want to check the operation of the coolant temperature sensor. If the sensor fails the ECU uses a fixed output of 60C (140F). This would support your "two-bars" reading. This should trip Fault Code 21...but if you are on the threshold of failure...maybe not yet. This type of failure will also keep the fan from turning on which could lead to an over temp.FYI, I ordered a used throttle body assembly. The plan is to rebuild the idle air controller and perhaps send the injectors out for cleaning and calibration.
I think I got it. I went ahead with the 'uplugging the sensors' test, starting with the coolant temp sensor. My thinking was that of the 3 suspects, the coolant temperature sensor lives the hardest life.Update - Not much to update....
I went out for am hour-long ride yesterday and the surging was pretty bad. Wondering if it is temperature related. Still lots of raw data that supports no conclusions....
Couple of things to report...
1 - Temp display still seems to be low. Yesterday was 85 degrees and never saw more than 3 bars on the LCD.
2 - Cold idle seems normal and it drops predictably to 1260-1320 when tach LCD stops blinking.
2a - The surging rarely shows up right away. Usually 10-15 minutes into a ride. When the surging starts, the idle seems to jump a bit higher to 1380 - 1440
3 - I cleaned the contacts on the Intake Air Temperature, the Intake Air Pressure and the Coolant Temp sensors. No particular reasons, but not long ago they were all disconnected when I serviced the starter.
4 - I tested the TPS and it meets the specs in the FSM.
Ideas / Next Steps
1 - Considering the problem is sporadic, I am thinking that if it IS a sensor, it is not a failure, but instead related to accuracy and consistency. Instead of removing and testing the 3 sensors (see above), each sensor has a fail-safe mode, where accuracy is ng but there should consistency. So performance might noticeably suffer, but there should not be any wild swings in ECU input (and therefore fueling). Thinking of unplugging 1 sensor at a time and test riding to see if anything measurable happens.
2 - I want to make sure that the cold engine temperature is an instrumentation issue, not a genuine issue. I need to make sure that there is a dramatic temperature change in the upper radiator home when the thermostat opens.
3 - When I removed the throttle bodies a few weeks ago, I essentially touched EVERYTHING that might cause a vacuum leak. Although the symptoms are not really consistent with a leak, I need to revisit that and double check.
4 - I received the eBay throttle bodies and have removed the injectors to send down to 'Injector RX' in Houston TX for cleaning and reconditioning. They seem to be a reputable outfit, and charge $18.00/injector. If anyone has any first-hand experience with them or another shop, let me know.
Anyway, just wanted to bring everyone up to speed and to share my ideas and spark some thoughts. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks
Thanks Gary. I ordered Permatex 59214 because it would arrive in the same Amazon box.... specs say good to 400F. Waiting for parts today.I believe Threebond 1184 will work in that application. Check the product data sheet.
They've been doing that ALOT lately. And shipping completely wrong items or damaged...Thanks Amazon. When you list something as 'delivered tomorrow', I interpret that as "Today's" tomorrow, not tomorrow 2 days from today.
New delivery date for the sensor is tomorrow. That's tomorrow from TODAY.
I only hope I get the right part. I was reading some of the reviews and there was one that said the fit was too tight. I am not easily swayed by reviews, but I am big on having a plan b. I ordered an OEM sensor from Partzilla last night just in case.They've been doing that ALOT lately. And shipping completely wrong items or damaged...
Learned something new tonight.
After my test rides on Saturday where I kinda confirmed it was the coolant temp sensor, I noticed that some of my connectors looked a little grungy, so I figured it was a good time to get out the contact cleaner and dielectric grease. Cleaned things up and plugged everything back in and I was getting a strong crank but no start. Scratched my head and reinspected everything but same result. Went to diag mode and see the coolant temp registering -30. Manual says that if the coolant temp sensor fails, the ECU sets the temp to 60c. Plugged the sensor back in and it started right up.
When I did my test on Saturday, the bike was still warm from my control ride. Started right up after unplugging the sensor. I even stopped for gas and restarted no problem. Tonight the bike was stone cold and would not start.
So it looks like an FYI....cold bike, no coolant temp sensor, no start.
Hey @Gary in NJ, the propane vacuum test sounds interesting. It sounds pretty straight forward, but it also sounds like the kind of process that will punish you if you do it wrong.Did you happen to conduct a vacuum leak test with a (unflamed) propane torch? It is the most accurate way - and easiest way - to test for leaks.
I would also suggest a leak-down compression check.