Downshift problems

[RoseBranson]

I'm new to this, so hopefully I am posting this in the correct place.

Down to the point, I have a 2007 Fz6 which I have been having problems with shifting down. The bike will shift down almost everytime at high rpms (6000 plus) but as soon as it goes lower than 6000, 9 out of 10 times it won't shift down. I am shifting one gear down at a time while releasing the clutch everytime to engine brake but sometimes it just won't shift down.

Any help figuring out what is wrong is greatly appreciated.

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to the forum!

Shifting problems can be as serious as worn parts and as simple as lubricating links. One simple but very important characteristic of the shift mechanism is that it must return to it's center position. Make sure the shift linkage knuckles are clean and lubricated.There should be no physical interference and no adjustment where it would impede the shifter from returning to its center. Don't use WD40. Although WD40 has it's applications it tends to get gummy and fails as a long term lubricant. Motor oil is fine.
Oil in the engine can also effect the shifting. The engine oil is shared by the transmission and since the clutch plate friction has direct relationship mechanical torque through the clutch can effect how smooth it will shift.

Making sure your clutch is fully disengaging is another import point when you have a shift problem. Sometimes adjusting the lever to close to the grip will limit full clutch disengagement and this will cause shift problems.
One of our other members will no doubt jump in and give some other ideas and experience.

 

[darius]

Welcome to the forum.

1. Make sure your clutch cable is well adjusted for point of engagement and in good condition- lubed and not frayed anywhere. If it's damaged, replace with OEM Yamaha only.

2. Check the shift rod adjustment that changes the angle of the shifter. It has less adjustment than it looks because it needs extra clearance for shifts from 1st through neutral to 2nd in a single operation and vice versa. Leave a little extra room for a safety margin. There are threads here you can search for on shifter adjustment. Ensure there's no binding.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To expand on the above, IF the shifter IS adjusted too far low, it WILL hit metal (and limit it's travel).

The adjuster is the long shaft with two lock nuts on each end. One end is reverse threaded.

Loosen the locknuts, turn the shaft and you'll see the lever either go up or down.

As noted, a clean, lubed, properly adjusted clutch cable and spray the snot out of the
rubber boots (pivots) should help a lot. You should be able to see the engine (lower arm) clutch lever move easily.

A clean, well lubed and adjusted correctly chain helps with sloppy shifting (but your sounds way worse than the chain)

The transmission/ shifter is very stout with few problems...

Question, is your shifter lever (not running), go back to center on it's own (or is it sloppy, not very positive)?

And is the bike new to you? Mileage?

If your clutch cable is oldish, they do fail. Mine(also an 07), with less than 25,000 miles, I found some binding
in a VERY WELL maintained clutch cable (doing reg maintenance):

 

[ShoopCE]

Rose,

Hi and welcome to the forum.

All of the earlier posts have good advice but please try the simplest things first. The problem that you've described sounds like an issue that I faced the first fall season that I had my FZ6. I feared that my transmission was ruined and I would be facing a significant repair bill. But then I found a thread on this forum.

Difficult downshifts can be caused when the linkage joints on the shifter need some lubrication. Put some oil or other lubricant inside the rubber boot on the forward joint and on the rear joint.



Work the shifter a bit and it should loosen up.

For the best and longest lasting results use a white lithium grease. White lithium grease is fairly waterproof and won't evaporate or run off. You can get it in spray form like this product from the company that makes WD40.

https://www.wd40specialist.com/prod...8EGlTu6uftzmADc09LnFFcw_z8VJ5YTRoCaH8QAvD_BwE

Note that regular WD40 is a penetrating oil that excels at loosening rusted nuts but is not a good long lasting lubricant for applications like the shifter linkages. WD40 will evaporate within a few days. Regular motor oil or 3in1 oil would work better than WD40 for the shifter, but white lithium would be even longer lasting. I reapply it every fall before the weather gets cold. The linkages seem to get stiff when the temperatures drop.

If the lubrication doesn't get the shifting back to normal then try the other suggestions. If your bike was shifting properly until recently and if you haven't been really abusing the transmission then the fix should be simple.

Good Luck!
Chris

(Yes, this is my FAVORITE helpful hint. I cannot help but add my suggestion on this issue.)

 

[major tom]

I had the exact same problem. It was fixed by removing and lubing the shift lever pivot.