Does this relay exist?

[Kanten]

I am annoyingly close to finishing my retrofit Xenon kit, but I have a single problem with the wiring.
I've figured out that I need a 5-pin relay with 3 pins going to the coil, and two for the switch.
Have any of you guys seen this???

 

[degake]

I am annoyingly close to finishing my retrofit Xenon kit, but I have a single problem with the wiring.
I've figured out that I need a 5-pin relay with 3 pins going to the coil, and two for the switch.
Have any of you guys seen this???

Why don't you just get a pre-made H4 relay harness?
They aren't that expensive
H4 harness

By the way; you only need a 4 pin relay to get your setup working.
You need a diode also

Grtz,


Degake

 

[Kanten]

TRS told me the same!
I have the H4 harness, I have the 4 pin relay, I have the diode, but the bugger shuts off when I turn it to high beam. You have this kit yourself, right?
The relay connector you have... does it have 4 or 5 pins?

I've been struggling with this for a little while, but after sketching, measuring and trying different setups, I'm not going anywhere.

If you can solve this for me, you would be a god!

 

[degake]

TRS told me the same!
I have the H4 harness, I have the 4 pin relay, I have the diode, but the bugger shuts off when I turn it to high beam. You have this kit yourself, right?
The relay connector you have... does it have 4 or 5 pins?

I've been struggling with this for a little while, but after sketching, measuring and trying different setups, I'm not going anywhere.

If you can solve this for me, you would be a god!

Take a look at my [thread=42492]Morimoto D2S Retrofit - FZ6-N[/thread] thread.
I retrofitted a projector into my naked headlight, as the light output is a LOT better than just a HID bulb in the stock headlight. (glare, intensity, ...).

The relay I used actually has 4 pins. (It's the same relay harness as shown in the link at my earlier post.
Let me see if I can find the schematics

Grtz,


Degake

 

[Motogiro]

TRS told me the same!
I have the H4 harness, I have the 4 pin relay, I have the diode, but the bugger shuts off when I turn it to high beam. You have this kit yourself, right?
The relay connector you have... does it have 4 or 5 pins?

I've been struggling with this for a little while, but after sketching, measuring and trying different setups, I'm not going anywhere.

If you can solve this for me, you would be a god!

Show me what you want to switch and I bet I'll give you the correct diagram for your need. What lights? and how are they wired? Single,Dual lamps?

 

[degake]

Show me what you want to switch and I bet I'll give you the correct diagram for your need. What lights? and how are they wired? Single,Dual lamps?

Cliff to the rescue

The setup should be:
Going from

original
H4 bulb (dual filament, low beam shutting off when high beam activated)

to

HID
Hid continously activated, hi/lo switched with solenoid

Grtz,


Degake

 

[Kanten]

Motogiro: As Degake said, I want the OEM H4 socket to keep my HID continiously turned on.

Degake: In my harness, I have the high beam connected to 87a (wich the 4 pin don't have) through a diode, and the solenoid is souldered into it before the diode. this means that the high beam signal don't go anywhere, except the solenoid.
My solenoid works perfectly, and the low beam works without any problem. If I flash the high beam (don't remember what that button is called in english) it works.

I have the naked bike myself, and bought the sportbike stage 3 kit from TRS Sportbike Stage III Kit - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc

My kit does not have two wires as you have on this, just the one for the ballast.

Jeez, this is driving me crazy!

Great to have this forum and you guys. Really appreciate it ;-)

 

[Kanten]

By the way... Do you know if the realy I was asking for exists? I'm positive it would fix my problems.

 

[degake]

Take a look at this very professional schematic I drew for you :flip:
View attachment 40419

This should be the same as the relay that I'm using.... (Just drew this out of my head )

Grtz,


Degake

 

[degake]

Degake: In my harness, I have the high beam connected to 87a (wich the 4 pin don't have) through a diode, and the solenoid is souldered into it before the diode. this means that the high beam signal don't go anywhere, except the solenoid.
My solenoid works perfectly, and the low beam works without any problem. If I flash the high beam (don't remember what that button is called in english) it works.

I have the naked bike myself, and bought the sportbike stage 3 kit from TRS Sportbike Stage III Kit - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc

My kit does not have two wires as you have on this, just the one for the ballast.

Jeez, this is driving me crazy!

Great to have this forum and you guys. Really appreciate it ;-)

If you bought the kit from TRS, shouldn't you also have the harness which is fully compatible with the HID bulb and your H4 bulb connector?

If you have this relay with the kit, the problem could be a different H4 pinout between US and EUR versions?? (just a wild guess :ban
So maybe you could try swapping the H4 pins around in the connector?

Grtz,


Degake

 

[Motogiro]

Interesting because most people in the US that have faired bikes want to get the low switching working as it would on the European and other countries Single headlamp switching so that the low beam goes off when the high beam turns on. With the HIDs and the Shutter/Solenoid/Plunger for the high beam function you want the low beam to stay on. In my opinion you're always going to have a brief if even a nano second off time when switching through the H4 conversion harness.
So..Lets take a step back! Sometimes less is more. I propose since you want to keep the transformers percolating all the time(Low beam always active), why not use the US faring wiring where the low beam is always on. This way. "You don't need no stinkin relay Man!"
Let me look and see if I can find a quick pick of point for you.

 

[degake]

Interesting because most people in the US that have faired bikes want to get the low switching working as it would on the European and other countries Single headlamp switching so that the low beam goes off when the high bean turns on. With the HIDs and the Shutter/Solenoid/Plunger for the high beam function you want the low beam to stay on. In my opinion you're always going to have a brief if even a nano second off time when switching throught the H4 conversion harness.
So..Lets take a step back! Sometimes less is more. I propose since you want to keep the transformers percolating all the time(Low beam always active), why not use the US faring wiring where the low beam is always. This way. "You don't need no stinkin relay Man!"
Let me look ans see if I can find a quick pick of point for you.

If there is a moment when the beams go off when switching, you'll definately won't notice that

Isn't the relay needed to get the solenoid working correctly? :scared:

Grtz,


Degake

 

[Motogiro]

If there is a moment when the beams go off when switching, you'll definately won't notice that

Isn't the relay needed to get the solenoid working correctly? :scared:

Grtz,


Degake

What I was thinking of is, there is a starting sequence when the lamps are turned on that uses more current. I was thinking that possibly each time there is the zero voltage point between switching (relay switching contacts) it might go into start up. I'm not certain on time or sequence for start up but...
Eliminating the possible switch sequence when not needed will in no way diminish operation and possibly make them work more efficiently. The relay is not needed for the solenoid but instead to convert switching to keep the HIDs on and not dropping out on conventional high beam switching for Halogen H4 filaments. When the high beam goes on the solenoid will go on directly from that wire.

So just one always on, low beam signal to the HID transformer's and the high beam to solenoid signal are all that would be required.

 

[degake]

What I was thinking of is, there is a starting sequence when the lamps are turned on that uses more current. I was thinking that possibly each time there is the zero voltage point between switching (relay switching contacts) it might go into start up. I'm not certain on time or sequence for start up but...
Eliminating the possible switch sequence when not needed will in no way diminish operation and possibly make them work more efficiently. The relay is not needed for the solenoid but instead to convert switching to keep the HIDs on and not dropping out on conventional high beam switching for Halogen H4 filaments. When the high beam goes on the solenoid will go on directly from that wire.

So just one always on, low beam signal to the HID transformer's and the high beam to solenoid signal are all that would be required.

Hmm, I didn't think about a possible hot restrike of the HID bulbs when switching HI/LO as you describe it...
So what you suggest is to wire the "low beam" to a switched powersource? (e.g. running/parking light), as that will be continously powered when the bike is started...
If so, we run into another problem, as the parking light will come up when putting the contact to "ON" instead of after the engine is started.
Second, when we activate the parking lights (yes, we do have those on our nakeds, don't know about the US FZ6-S versions??), the HIDs would be ignited as well??

If you know what could be used as an always hot lead, please let us know

Grtz,


Degake

 

[Motogiro]

Hmm, I didn't think about a possible hot restrike of the HID bulbs when switching HI/LO as you describe it...
So what you suggest is to wire the "low beam" to a switched powersource? (e.g. running/parking light), as that will be continously powered when the bike is started...
If so, we run into another problem, as the parking light will come up when putting the contact to "ON" instead of after the engine is started.
Second, when we activate the parking lights (yes, we do have those on our nakeds, don't know about the US FZ6-S versions??), the HIDs would be ignited as well??

If you know what could be used as an always hot lead, please let us know

Grtz,


Degake

Yes I have a plan! Look at the dimmer relay #60 in the attached schematic. There is a green wire that comes from that relay. It is the switched headlamp power that is controlled by the ECU and the perfect pick for running the HID transformers. It will remain off till the bike is started for great power management and will remain on during hi beam on. That's all you should need besides of course your grounds. That relay may be in one of the pods on either side of the bike.

So you should have the green wire to HID transformers/s and Black with yellow tracer high beam wire to solenoid/s. No H4 harness needed...

Edit: I have a Suzuki and it has has passing light switch and parking lights like yer fancy Urpeen bikes!:BLAA:

Edit: Also there will be a wire color coded Blue with a black tracer that feeds the high beam switch that can be use to power the HIDs

 

[degake]

Yes I have a plan! Look at the dimmer relay #60 in the attached schematic. There is a green wire that comes from that relay. It is the switched headlamp power that is controlled by the ECU and the perfect pick for running the HID transformers. It will remain off till the bike is started for great power management and will remain on during hi beam on. That's all you should need besides of course your grounds. That relay may be in one of the pods on either side of the bike.

So you should have the green wire to HID transformers/s and Black with yellow tracer high beam wire to solenoid/s. No H4 harness needed...

That sounds absolutely great!! :thumbup:
If my relay goes bad (or if I'm adding some other electronics ) I'll rewire everything to eliminate the relay harness (It will make all the wiring a lot cleaner as well )
Maybe the OP can experiment with this setup, so I'm sure I won't fry my wiring :flip::ban: (But if you say this will work, I'm sure it will definately work :Flash

Cliff, you truly are a God (of electrical solutions!! :Flash

(rep is coming up your way mate :thumbup

Edit: I have a Suzuki and it has has passing light switch and parking lights like yer fancy Urpeen bikes!:BLAA:

We in Europe love a little bit of luxury (as a compensation for all those stupid small (diesel) engines in our cars :spank

Edit: Also there will be a wire color coded Blue with a black tracer that feeds the high beam switch that can be use to power the HIDs

Don't make it too difficult for us Cliff
1 option is all we need :BLAA:

Grtz,


Degake