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Do you blip the throttle?

Also keep in mind that the stator doesn't charge until after 5K. If you are always shifting before that, you are never recharging the system.

Dunno bout yours but mine starts charging around 2k rpm, try this tonight after dark point your bike at a wall, with it running in neutral, bilp the throttle till you see the lights get brighter on the wall. And there ya go now you know exactly when you stator starts to charge.
 
Ok, let's try this again. Simpler terms.

When shifting down into a lower gear the engine speed needs to go up.
You can twist the throttle to raise engine speed to the point that it should be when selecting the lower gear.

Example: Without blipping/rev matching
You are in fourth, spinning 5000 RPMs. You want to shift into third.

Pull in the clutch, the trans goes into neutral. The RPMs drop.

Select third, the RPMs need to shoot up to 6500 RPMs.

You get a jerk.

Now with blipping/rev matching.

Pull in the clutch
Select third gear
Blip throttle (twist throttle very quickly so that RPMs shoot up)
Let clutch out.
No jerk, all smooth

All done very fast.
Clutch/gear/blip/clutch.

OK, I just learned Speed Shifting a couple weeks ago and now there is Blipping???? Speed Shifting is cool is crap although I don't do it all the time. I have to try this Blipping now. The concept is clear is mud. Sounds like a touchy feeling thing (no, don't tee off over that comment...lol).

Always learning things on this site. Thanks everyone.
 
Yes.

I blip the throttle when downshifting with or without a clutch, although more when not using the clutch. When I use the clutch, I don't pull it in all the way, just pull it ever so slightly to take some pressure off the drive train. It's much smoother for me if I don't have to completely re-engage the clutch.
 
I'm not defending or bashing the basic rider courses but remember it is only a BASIC course and they only have limited time to teach the students things. Basic riding courses teach riders to hold in the clutch while braking and then downshift all the way for a reason but unfortunately they don't really mention why they teach it that way. They do however stress not locking your wheels by over braking which is the same thing that can happen if you down shift "incorrectly". The mechanics of downshifting are not particularly difficult but when you are fighting to keep the wheels under you downshifting may be a little much.

"Smooth downshifting" can be obtained by letting out the clutch very slowly after a downshift. If you are new to downshifting be careful not to lock the rear wheel which can happen if the change in RPMs is too much. The result of a RPM mismatch between one gear change is often just a jerk but the difference between two gears can easily be enough to lock your rear wheel. So do not just drop/pop the clutch ease it out smoothly and slowly. Practice first at a natural shift point where you could either be in one gear or another to minimize the RPM mismatch.

After you are comfortable with 'normal' downshifting you can practice blipping the throttle. There is really no need to ever learn it. Mainly it just sounds cool to wind the motor up and let it come down and you are stoppign at a light.
Nothing to add, this says it all really. Wheel lock is a right bugger.
 
Here is the chart for the FZ6R:

v6tf8g.jpg


Its quite a bit different! Now everyone can understand why I was in 6th gear all the time when I first joined the board haha!

Now those are some really low shift points! :eek:
 
Really. Just try to accelerate in an emergency, like when you realize the car behind you is not stopping quickly enough, while still in 5th gear.

Tim

as you slow down on the bike you should be reducing the gears one by one to utilise the engine breaking potential and the potential of your own breaks.

You dont just stop in 6th gear....that would be a very bad mistake!

So if your slowing down and you see a car bearing down on you you should already be in a gear that will allow fast accelleration.
 
Personally, I think those shift points are way too low. That makes you shift at ~5K, meaning that you're between 4-5K at normal riding. That is simply too low to get any real power from the bike and makes moving quickly out of the way impossible.

I keep the bike between 5.5 - 6.5K for cruising in town. If I'm in the country and I know I won't need the power, the recommended works.
Also keep in mind that the stator doesn't charge until after 5K. If you are always shifting before that, you are never recharging the system.

I have never ridden a 2004 model but my 2008 has plenty of power at 4k rpm for average riding esp if you are in lower gears. Granted if I am merging onto the highway or something I do not follow those shift points.

The system will charge below 5krpm, from what I can tell the 5krpm is a reference point for verifying voltage (14.0V) and power output (310W) for test purposes. This is something like 20+ AMPS. At lower rpms you will still get some energy out the stator which depending on the electrical load (lights, accessories, ECU) should result in a positive supply to the battery. My "electrical machine" equations have faded from memory but it is possible to calculate fairly simply the output curves of the stator and rectifier at various rpms.
 
I have never ridden a 2004 model but my 2008 has plenty of power at 4k rpm for average riding esp if you are in lower gears. Granted if I am merging onto the highway or something I do not follow those shift points.

I guess it's personal preference, but I don't like to be below 6K in the city.
 
I blip. Smoother and safer (no rear wheel hop or locking) and it sounds wicked with my 2 bros lol.
A guy at work that says he wants to ride, made a sarcastic comment "your bike seems to rev when you hit the brake, thats cool" I had to explain to him why... thought he woulda known if he wanted to ride.
 
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