Conversion bi-xenon retrofit in Europe RHD some questions, help

bigdog9191999

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Like I stated before, and I will clarify.

The projectors you can get from trs or wherever you can ( this is were you need to look close. As many that are not from trs are slightly lesser quality and many are their rejects. Not that they are horrible, just not as perfect as they want them)


As for mounting them there is plenty of info on how, open housing and Mount !



As for the hid's ( just the hid kits) can be had just about anywhere , but many if the eBay ones are cheaper quality. Places like ddm, vvme, and many others have pretty good kits that don't break the bank. But your top notch high end kits will come from trs, hid planet and such will be a bit better/ higher end, but you will pay for that.


And yes the start up of the ballasts takes a bit more juice and to keep from melting wires. As well as give them more reliable better power that will make them function better and more reliably a relay kit is the way to go. A relay kit is fairly easy to install. There are usually 4 wires and although I don't have the exact pin numbers ( they are marked on the relay , like 85, and 87 ect. )

One will be main power from the batt to the relay.

One will be main power from the relay to your device ( this is all the same concept with doing many things , like horns, or whatever else is going to use more power than stick wire can support )

One will be ground to the chassis


And the final will be the "trigger" wire which will come from the factory location of what you are replacing ( again be it horn, lights ect. ). And this wire simply tells the relay to either open and send power through or remain closed and stop power.


Anything not clear? ( seriously if it isn't ask, I will try to better explain it)





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FIZZER6

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See if you can find "Morimoto H1 Bi-xenon projectors" on Ebay in Europe. These are the same ones TRS sells and are perfect for the FZ6. I've used these a lot on many different retrofits.

Don't worry too much about the high voltage required to fire the HID bulbs, 25,000 Volts is what the ballast unit produces to light the bulb, your wires feeding the ballasts are only providing 12-14 Volts DC the ballasts act as a step up capacitor to boost the voltage. Your headlight wiring only sees about 12 amps draw for a few seconds at startup and then it levels off to 4-6 amps per light which is about the same as the original bulbs.

I would recommend an aftermarket HID/auxillary wiring harness to protect your factor wiring though. Run it directly off the battery and use the low and high beam bulb connectors on the factory harness to turn on the HID and the bi-xenon switch.
 

Beerdrinker

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Thank you very much to all of you for your help! Once again, I'm very sorry for my mistake translating the RHD and RHT the same way...:banghead:

I think I have all the information I need to do the modification without troubles. The part that scares me most is the oven part! I already tried to find a used headlight to make the modification for the case the "roasted" goes wrong I still had my own... but they are very expensives. I will try my chance.

I will start to select the parts to buy
I will only do the mod in my vacations because I need the motorcycle everyday to go to work and recreation...

thank you :cheer:
 

FB400

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good luck with your parts accumulation. if needing to limit downtime on the bike having a spare headlight is the easiest way to minimize your bike's downtime.

If you stick to 265 degrees farenheit for 7 minutes you should be ok. if wanting to use a lower temperature I suppose you would just have to bake it a little longer. Really 265 degrees farenheit for 7 minutes works great.

And oh yeah.. put a piece of 1" x 3" length of wood on the oven tray to rest the headlight on so the headlight doesn't come in contact with the metal in oven. Don't worry the wood won't go on fire, at least not at recommended temperature for 7 minutes it won't

let us all know if you have any more questions.. happy to help here
 
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