Clutch wear

[Jez]

Just got a couple of questions that hopefully aren't too dumb. I had the bike (2004 FZ6-S) up on the centre stand today idling in neutral, and noticed when I revved the engine a bit that the rear wheel would turn when I gave it some revs. Not much, but over about 4000rpm the wheel would slowly rotate maybe 1/4 of a turn. It's stationary at idle however. Could this be an indication of a slipping clutch? The clutch lever only engages when almost fully out as well.

Another thing - after a ride of any distance, when I get home the rear brake disc is too hot to touch, but the front is cold. This is despite me using the front brake for 90% of braking. The wheel rotates OK - no problem pushing the bike at all - and I can't feel any resistance from the brake, but I'm wondering if the caliper could be sticking a little.

 

[Smittyboy]

From my LIMITED understanding, it will rotate a little when revved. I had mine in neutral and gave it a little crack and the rear spun a little. If something is wrong with you, we've both got it...
The thing about the brakes, the only thing I could think of is the front is constantly getting blown on and the back is in the draft of the bike, kinda like when you're drafting a semi, you'll run about 10-15 degrees hotter...

 

[Robmac]

The wheel rotation is normally for a wet clutch, sounds like your rear brake caliber is sticking.

Just got a couple of questions that hopefully aren't too dumb. I had the bike (2004 FZ6-S) up on the centre stand today idling in neutral, and noticed when I revved the engine a bit that the rear wheel would turn when I gave it some revs. Not much, but over about 4000rpm the wheel would slowly rotate maybe 1/4 of a turn. It's stationary at idle however. Could this be an indication of a slipping clutch? The clutch lever only engages when almost fully out as well.

Another thing - after a ride of any distance, when I get home the rear brake disc is too hot to touch, but the front is cold. This is despite me using the front brake for 90% of braking. The wheel rotates OK - no problem pushing the bike at all - and I can't feel any resistance from the brake, but I'm wondering if the caliper could be sticking a little.

 

[Speedygonzales]

Check your wheel alignment. Probably your wheel isn't mounted strait and the disk is touching your brake pads.

But you bike on a centerstand or racestand, rotate the wheel with your hand. If you hear scraping and feel resistance. Align the wheel.

 

[Jez]

Great advice - thanks.

Any tips on how to align the wheel? I've got the basic toolkit that came with the bike but not much else.

 

[Denver_FZ6]

Great advice - thanks.

Any tips on how to align the wheel? I've got the basic toolkit that came with the bike but not much else.

The bracket which holds the rear caliper is indexed to the axle. So even if rear wheel is misaligned, the caliper and disk shouldn't be. Check to see if your caliper guides are sticking or if piston is not retracting properly.

 

[rjo3491]

Great advice - thanks.

Any tips on how to align the wheel? I've got the basic toolkit that came with the bike but not much else.

Put a rag between the chain and the sprocket and turn the wheel hard against it. This will push the wheel firm against the alignment bolts. Now adjust the nuts until the wheel in straight.

I can't recall if I saw this here or somewhere else, but it works great!

 

[NJ GUS]

Before you loosen anything on the bike, look at the small hash marks on the swingarm at the axle. These are the marks you use to align the rear wheel. If you need to adjust it, everything you need is in the toolkit under the seat..

I would be a little leary about playing with it if you don't have alot of experience as a misaligned bike won't handle correctly.

If you feel up to it, put the bike on the centerstand and put the keys in your pocket.
SLIGHTLY loosen the axle nut on the left side. (You'll need to hold the other side from turning)(All tools are in the kit)
Loosen the jam nut on the axle adjusters.
Tighten the left side adjuster 1 flat at a time until the hash marks are even.
Tighten the axle to (I believe) 80 ft#. I usually use the "FT" spec here. (F***ng tight)
Retighten the jam nut on the adjusters.
You'll need to check the chain slack when you're done.

Before you go this route, are you sure you're not resting your foot on the rear brake while driving?