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Clutch Slave Levers - I'm making them again

So when do those of us who want to get in on the next lot of orders need to get in touch with you KN? :) And do you have spare cores now that we can send you cash for instead of ordering bits from Ron Ayers etc to be posted to you? I read somewhere that you were buying cores from people who had that mod done & didn't need the stock ones anymore?

Thanks


Andy
 
I got mine today too. I love it... I have settled to the second hole from the last. The last one felt a little too numb. The one I am using has both the smooth operation and feedback for when the clutch engages.

Thank you so much for making them man.:rockon:
 
So I got mine yesterday, and tried installing today. I'm having a problem where the slave lever doesn't fully retract when the master lever is released. Seems fine without the cable attached. The cable doesn't seem to be binding, and I tried lubricating it at both ends, as well as in the center adjustment section near the airbox.

Do I need a new cable? Could it have dried out or gummed up after sitting for 2 months? It was fine before. :(

(note: the picture shows the dust boot over the end of the cable is missing - I had to remove it to fit in the new bracket clip. It was on before)
 
^^^ I've come across the same issue. Can anyone help us out?

Edit: I found the step process. Much better!

As far as adjustment goes, when you take the lever off you can put the new lever a spline higher on the shaft to get your adjustment back to factory.

Basically, installing the new lever goes like this:

1. Install the cable hanger bracket with the cable in the 2nd(new) position.
2. Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
3. Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out (we need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
4. Install the new clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft.
5. Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
6. Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
7. Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
8. When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
9. Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft. 10. Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.
 
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Well I installed mine. But I can't help but notice, I went back to more of a stock setting. Maybe has to do with more muscle memory than anything. I will have to re install and go over again. I found my cable was just too loose with the initial swapping of parts. Perhaps I am just overlooking something. I did notice when Re-installing the clutch arm. To make sure the arm is mounted in more toward the bike creating more tension on the spring, which creates more friction zone on the clutch handle. Then start making the adjustments to the 4 holes in the arm as made available.

I have another question. When mounting the cable bracket. Which hole did you use? The open like on the stock piece? Or the new outer closed hole on the bracket? When I utilized the outer closed hole, that's when I noticed the cable became extremely loose.

Common sense tells you this part is adjustable geared towards the rider and what tension they prefer when using the clutch. Does anybody have any recent pics of proper mounting with the fabricated hardware?

Any input would be appreciated.
 
I went back and reinstalled using the procedure Paul posted, and all is well now. Clutch definitely feels smoother, but I'm still operating it the way I'm used to, so it will take some time to adjust my inputs.

NorCal FZ6 said:
To make sure the arm is mounted in more toward the bike creating more tension on the spring, which creates more friction zone on the clutch handle.
Click to expand...
That's probably your problem - even though it's intuitive to put more tension on the spring, it will keep the cable from being pulled taut when the lever is installed.
 
I had one of these new ones installed on my bike a week to make sure the length wasn't a factor. Everything seemed great with the longer lever length.

The directions for installation were posted above and are still correct. Some things to notice for installation:

Make sure the cable isn't binding by resting on top of that cover bolted to the top of the transmission. It should rest to the side of that thing.

Make sure the handlebar adjustment is tightened all the way in and all the slack is out of the cable and make sure you turn the splined shaft clockwise until it stops before you try to slide the new lever on the shaft. If you don't do this, it will be on the wrong spline and the adjustment screw will max out before your handlebar lever is all the way out.

Now is a good time to lube up the cable. :)

I'm pretty sure you can pull that rubber boot through the hole on the mount. Mine was rotten and falling off by itself so I didn't give it a try. It's been exposed for years now and the clutch still feels good.

It may take you a couple tries to get the lever on the right spline. Just be patient and don't install the circlip until you get it right. You'll know when you do when you can adjust the handlebar lever until there is no slack left with the adjustment screw.

You will have to re-learn the clutch! :BLAA:
Give it about a week of riding and you'll probably never go back to the stock setting. The pull will be much lighter and the friction zone will be much longer than you're used to.
 
And an update with the next shipment of levers. I got smothered in stuff this weekend and wasn't able to get all the levers done. I managed to get 8 more finished tonight so those will be shipping out tomorrow (Monday). I should have some free time some nights this week to wrap the rest up. :rockon:
 
Oh... to check for cable bind:

Remove the cable ferrule from the handlebar lever and let it dangle. Now remove the cable from the slave lever. You should be able to push it and pull it smoothly and very easily with your fingers. If you can't, your cable is gummed up or you need to look at how it is being routed inside the bike to see if it is stressed anywhere.
 
These are the 8 I shipped:

edgeofnj
boars
Popeye70
Jacs
pookamatic
wx4p
fryguy
itsallgood (1 of the 2, I'll ship the second one when its finished)
 
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