Clutch lever vs clutch noise vs cable play

[Beerdrinker]

I never liked the "engagement point" of the clutch in the FZ6 because it's too far from the grip, I like it in the first third of the lever play. So I asked for your help here:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/46206-clutch-adjustment-grab-end-lever.html


To solve the situation I buy a cheap adjustable clutch lever from ebay, and it worked for me as I can, basicaly, change the engaging point anywhere.
View attachment 52921
But at the Yamaha service they told me the clutch was a bit hard and noisy at the first and second gear mostly.
So I tried the original lever and the noises gone and the clutch become super smooth in all gears!
So I measure how much cable was pulled with each lever and find out the ebay one pulls more amout of clutch cable than the original:
View attachment 52922
At the position 1 pulls: 7,4cm (2.91 inches)
At the position 4 pulls: 7 cm (2.76 inches)
At the position 6 pulls: 6,9 cm (2.72 inches) in this possition the engagement point here is very similar, if not the same, as te original lever

The original pulls: 6,8 cm (2.68 inches)

I expected that the ebay one pulls less cable but it pulls more... as I read lots of people complaining about the gear noise, this could be something to be evaluated! Not only the noise but also it may lead to some premature wear of some part of the clutch i think...

I will have to learn to like the "engagement point" as it is!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I never liked the "engagement point" of the clutch in the FZ6 because it's too far from the grip, I like it in the first third of the lever play. So I asked for your help here:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/46206-clutch-adjustment-grab-end-lever.html


To solve the situation I buy a cheap adjustable clutch lever from ebay, and it worked for me as I can, basicaly, change the engaging point anywhere.
View attachment 52921
But at the Yamaha service they told me the clutch was a bit hard and noisy at the first and second gear mostly.
So I tried the original lever and the noises gone and the clutch become super smooth in all gears!
So I measure how much cable was pulled with each lever and find out the ebay one pulls more amout of clutch cable than the original:
View attachment 52922
At the position 1 pulls: 7,4cm (2.91 inches)
At the position 4 pulls: 7 cm (2.76 inches)
At the position 6 pulls: 6,9 cm (2.72 inches) in this possition the engagement point here is very similar, if not the same, as te original lever

The original pulls: 6,8 cm (2.68 inches)

I expected that the ebay one pulls less cable but it pulls more... as I read lots of people complaining about the gear noise, this could be something to be evaluated! Not only the noise but also it may lead to some premature wear of some part of the clutch i think...

I will have to learn to like the "engagement point" as it is!

Interesting!

Something you may try is to just adjust the cable play looser than recommended. As long as your clutch is fully disengaging, it won't hurt anything and the clutch lever will engage sooner (closer to the lever)..

 

[FinalImpact]

If you lay the levers atop one another and SET the adjustable one to match the OEM, its pull would be the same as OEM. However, when you adjust it AWAY from the grip, it can now travel further before touching the grip thus increasing the distance traveled which does increase cable pull distance. Inversely true is adjusting the lever in closer - the lever can hit the grip before releasing the clutch if not adjusted properly.

As Scott said, this is a product of adjustment. Adding the proper amount of slack would make this a none-issue.

Also, once the clutch is disengaged, there is no value in pulling it further. So, in the ideal world the lever would be set for the perfect reach for our fingers and completely disengage the clutch right as the lever touches the grip. Using the two adjustments available, this is obtainable for most of us.

Try to get some lube down in that cables sheath - it will really help reduce the pull effort.

Too both of your points; someone with Giant hands, could adjust the lever all the way out, remove all the slack and essentially pull the cable MUCH FARTHER than needed to release the clutch. This would be a poor choice for long term operation. Add a stopper at the grip to prevent this if your hands are this big!​

 

[Beerdrinker]

Interesting!

Something you may try is to just adjust the cable play looser than recommended. As long as your clutch is fully disengaging, it won't hurt anything and the clutch lever will engage sooner (closer to the lever)..

When the Yamaha service told me this issue with the clutch I thought the lever isn't pulling enough and possibly burning (is this the right term?) my clutch plates, never ever thought it pulls more! I thought sharing this because I see many people complaining about noises and mine become really smooth! lol

I was used to less powerfull bikes and clutches engaging closer to the grip.
Yesterday I installed the original lever and ride some really twisted roads and I liked the really quick release I can make with it!
I realize I release much slower the adjustable lever, the original is more like a switch, on/off!

 

[Beerdrinker]

If you lay the levers atop one another and SET the adjustable one to match the OEM, its pull would be the same as OEM. However, when you adjust it AWAY from the grip, it can now travel further before touching the grip thus increasing the distance traveled which does increase cable pull distance. Inversely true is adjusting the lever in closer - the lever can hit the grip before releasing the clutch if not adjusted properly.

I always thought the adjustable level compensate the amount of cable it will pull, otherwise it doesn't make sense adjust the level and then adjust the cable nut... or I don't understand what you are trying to explain? (Sorry, I'm from the old continent)

As Scott said, this is a product of adjustment. Adding the proper amount of slack would make this a none-issue.

Who is "Scott"??

Also, once the clutch is disengaged, there is no value in pulling it further. So, in the ideal world the lever would be set for the perfect reach for our fingers and completely disengage the clutch right as the lever touches the grip. Using the two adjustments available, this is obtainable for most of us.

I thought the clutch reach a limit and couldn't be pulled farther than that!

Try to get some lube down in that cables sheath - it will really help reduce the pull effort.

The cable is lubed with good oil much more than specified!

Too both of your points; someone with Giant hands, could adjust the lever all the way out, remove all the slack and essentially pull the cable MUCH FARTHER than needed to release the clutch. This would be a poor choice for long term operation. Add a stopper at the grip to prevent this if your hands are this big!​

Big, but not an Yeti!!

Thank you for the help!!​

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When the Yamaha service told me this issue with the clutch I thought the lever isn't pulling enough and possibly burning (is this the right term?) my clutch plates, never ever thought it pulls more! I thought sharing this because I see many people complaining about noises and mine become really smooth! lol

I realize I release much slower the adjustable lever, the original is more like a switch, on/off!

Yepper, the clutch lever, at the engine (lower right side) only needs to move so far to fully release and fully engauge. Sure you pull it farther than needed but its extra effort and pull for no reason.

Correct as well, if the clutch doesn't release fully, it will drag and yes you'll burn up the friction plates (or at least wear them out much faster than normal).

The FZ is pretty basic, around good bike. No lever clutch adjustment like the brake lever. Now, the FJR (hydralic clutch), does have the same style lever as the brake, with an adjustable "wheel" to move the clutch lever in and out some. (And no, its not a swapable item being hydralic) but your talking about a machine that costs considerably more.

I've found over the years, most bikes have their own idiosyncrasies. For instance, most Yamaha's have a clutch engaugement farther out. Suzuki's, much closer in to the lever. Kawi's, about the middle in general. Just something to get used to.

You mentioned the on/off engaugment with the FZ clutch which is very true. Its generally been a complaint of newer riders. Once your used to it, you can clutch shift a bit faster than a bike with a longer engagment zone. Actually, the quick engaugement zone ALLOWS you to adjust that zone, more so, than a bike with a wide zone. I'm very used to it and prefer it actually.

BTW, FinalImpact' (Randy) referrel to "Scott", that's me, (its at the top of my signature in bold letters-down below).. I'd prefer to be called by my first name, (that's why its posted there), but I'll answer to about anything..Blah

 

[Beerdrinker]

BTW, FinalImpact' (Randy) referrel to "Scott", that's me, (its at the top of my signature in bold letters-down below).. I'd prefer to be called by my first name, (that's why its posted there), but I'll answer to about anything..Blah

The "Bold letters"... How do I miss it? Maybe because we're have to pay extra attention to the small ones we forget the bigger ones!
Thank you Scott!

 

[Beerdrinker]

The FZ is pretty basic, around good bike. No lever clutch adjustment like the brake lever. Now, the FJR (hydralic clutch), does have the same style lever as the brake, with an adjustable "wheel" to move the clutch lever in and out some. (And no, its not a swapable item being hydralic) but your talking about a machine that costs considerably more.

hydralic clutch it's also because it is bigger and heavier to pull with a cable I think, when I grow up I want a FJR or a GTR1400...:spank:

You mentioned the on/off engaugment with the FZ clutch which is very true. Its generally been a complaint of newer riders. Once your used to it, you can clutch shift a bit faster than a bike with a longer engagment zone. Actually, the quick engaugement zone ALLOWS you to adjust that zone, more so, than a bike with a wide zone. I'm very used to it and prefer it actually.

Very true the complaint of newer riders, I was one of them!

 

[Beerdrinker]

One month after changing the cheap** ebay clutch lever to the original one I continue without noises when I change my gears and the gear box it's extra smooth! Even the usual "clunk" of the 1st gear is little noticed.

If you have clutch noises I advise you to check the clutch lever!


** If something, for how cheap it may be, don't make the function that is suposed to do, it becomes rather expensive!!

 

[nthdegreeburns]

One month after changing the cheap** ebay clutch lever to the original one I continue without noises when I change my gears and the gear box it's extra smooth! Even the usual "clunk" of the 1st gear is little noticed.



If you have clutch noises I advise you to check the clutch lever!





** If something, for how cheap it may be, don't make the function that is suposed to do, it becomes rather expensive!!

And here I've been looking at Pazzo and CRG levers to "spruce" up my bike...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I tried the Pazzo's and didn't like them.

Very, very well made, very trick looking and functional, however, unlike the stock levers, they have much sharper (forward) edges where your fingers grab compared to the stockers.

I wear Olyimpia, leather/gel gloves diring the summer and could NOT get used to those sharpish edges (compared to stock). When working the lever(s), my fingers have to literally go over a "sharpish edge", very uncomfy for me..

If they smoothed those forward edges out, they'd be considerably more comfortable with NO downsides. I'd have them in a minute!