Broken Starter Switch

[subaron]

***If you jump start, turn the car OFF.***

The RED kill switch is turned to the RUN position correct? I'm assuming you didn't mess with that when you had the switch assembly apart??

Does the bike NOT crank over or crank and NOT start?

Putting a voltmeter across the battery (or off a SAE connector) will give you an idea on the battery. Cranking voltage should not drop below 10 volts.

A simple load test (on a fully charged battery) would let you know the health of the battery. Most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc, will do a load test, free on the battery.

IME, 3 years is generally the length of time you'll get out of a battery.


IMO, I'd stick with the Yuasa OEM battery. Amazon sells them as well.

A regular, automatic 1.25 amp battery charger is the best charger for our batteries. You'll need one if you install a new battery yourself for the initial charge.

Last night I used a volt meter to check the battery and it was showing 12.4V (enough to be able to turn the bike over). When I pressed the starter button the lowest it dropped to was 10.5V. From my reading the battery seems to be in good condition. But bike didn't start, just tried to turn over.

Next I tried to see if I can jump start the bike (with car off), with positive battery terminal on car connected to the positive on the SAE connector, and negative car battery terminal connected to the rear disk brake (also tried the rear wheel adjusting bolt as another ground). In both cases the bike didn't start. I left the car connected to bike this way for about 10 to 15 minutes and tried again with no success (btw the car battery was at 12.7V).

Next a few hours later when had a buddy over, we tried to push start the bike. It started up, but as soon as I pulled the clutch in to change gears it died. We gave it another shot and this time the bike ran and was able to change gears. So I let the bike idle for about 15 minutes. Turned it off and tried starting it and it started right up. So left it over night.

This morning checked and the voltage was around 12.5V before starting. So when I pushed the starter in with voltmeter connected the battery dropped to about 10V. Held the starter for maybe 4 to 5 seconds. Revved the bike to about 2500 rpm and got up to 13.5V reading and at idle about 12.5V.

Do you think there is an issue with stator? As I saw few youtube videos where the charging volt is around 14V. What is the normal for our bikes?

The battery is a Yuasa battery about 5 to 6 years old. Do you think I am just better of replacing the battery?

How long does it take the battery to fully charge at 13.5V while riding at highway?

Lastly, I am wondering if there is some drain on the system as I get blown out licence plate bulbs. Had stopped replacing them a couple years ago, until today when I installed a 6 SMD LED bulb to see if it fairs any better. Btw the voltage at the licence plate bracket outputs 12.9V while bike on, which is higher than the battery currently at 12.5V. I haven't checked charging voltage at idle or 2500rpm after licence bulb install.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

12.8 volts is considered fully charged. 12.4 is approx 75% charged (still needs charging)

Here's a video of my bike with the old battery (due for replacement) to give you an idea. I have the BD43 mod (dual low beams) as well.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/



Your voltage sounds a little low and I suspect your battery will need replacement.

As noted before, charge it fully (with a charger) then have it LOAD TESTED.

Its free but yours sounds low and may very well be the issue.

 

[subaron]

My bike has been running/starting fine since the push start and 15 to 20 min idle. Starts everytime without hesitation. However I have a long trip coming up in a couple months and wanted to change the battery as insurance.

IMO, I'd stick with the Yuasa OEM battery. Amazon sells them as well.

I tried looking for the battery, but the Yuasa battery on Amazon is the acid type, not gel like my current Yuasa. Could not find the AGM version. What gives?

This is all I found:
Amazon.com: Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery: Automotive

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My bike has been running/starting fine since the push start and 15 to 20 min idle. Starts everytime without hesitation. However I have a long trip coming up in a couple months and wanted to change the battery as insurance.

I tried looking for the battery, but the Yuasa battery on Amazon is the acid type, not gel like my current Yuasa. Could not find the AGM version. What gives?

This is all I found:
Amazon.com: Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery: Automotive

Here's the Yuasa site and that is the correct battery; Yuasa Batteries - Vehicle Type Search
Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery

You do have to fill it with the acid (included) and charge INITIALLY with a 1.25 amp charger for full performance

I just replaced mine maybe 6 months ago, you do add acid to the AGM. It's pretty easier to do /activate.



Yuasa FAQ's site, re acid and AGM batteries; Yuasa Batteries - FAQ's


Can an AGM battery be installed in any position?

In most applications, batteries are installed in an upright position, but in some situations there is a need to tilt them (sometimes at very extreme angles) or lay them completely flat on their backs.
Yuasa typically supplies AGM batteries with separate acid packs that you must fill (and charge) yourself. We do not recommend that this type of battery be installed on it's side, or even an extreme angle, due to possible leakage occuring.
Fortunately, Yuasa offers many AGM batteries as "Factory Activated". Generally this type of battery is safe to install in almost any direction. If there is any question of a particular vehicle/battery/installation please contact us for our specific recommendation before attempting to use battery.


There's lots of information, especially under the FAQ's for maintenance, etc...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's a pic of the battery I just replaced, a YT12B-BS;
(my old battery)

Double click to enlarge.

 

[subaron]

Here's a pic of the battery I just replaced, a YT12B-BS;
(my old battery)

Double click to enlarge.

Thanks for this. I ended up getting the same battery, it just arrived in mail yesterday.
I haven't added the acid to it yet as I need to get an appropriate battery tender. Do you think either of the following will work? Neither of them say anything about 1.25amp

Amazon.com: Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger: Automotive

Amazon.com: Black & Decker BM3B 6V and 12V Battery Charger / Maintainer: Automotive



Edit: Also found this (only 400ma though)
Automatic Battery Charger - 12V

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The Battery tender you have is .75 amp, the B&D, I didn't see any spec's on that.

The Battery tender will work ok, just take a bit longer to fully charge.

Even at 1.25 amps, it'll likely take 8 hours or so to fully charge.

IMO, if you can pay a little more for a 1.25 amp, it'd be worth it.. .The BT 1.25 amp chargers are very popular and pretty reliable....


BTW, I think I've seen BT's at Walmart and that might be a little cheaper there..


I have one of these, two similar BMW chargers(look the same but definitely different.) and some other chargers...

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Battery-Tender-Plus-021-0128-12V-Battery-Charger/15779498



Edit: Also found this (only 400ma though)
Automatic Battery Charger - 12V

Read the reviews, its very inexpensive but the reviews are not so hot. You pretty much get what you pay for..just my 2cts

 

[subaron]

Ended up getting the battery tender junior. Since the only time I would use it is with a new battery. Bike lives in a carport. So no way to charge the battery other than off bike in the house.

The macx charge the battery achieved is 13.2V. Not over the 13.6V as I have seen on YouTube videos from attbat.com

Does this sound surprising? Or within normal specs?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As long as you left the charger on until it went fully green on its own, you should be fine..

After the battery sits a couple of hours, the static charge should be 12.8 volts and or up slightly more...


*Most shops just fill the battery and throw it on the tender (1.25 amp).

It'll take awhile but once the light turns green, they don't re-test it, its done...


Your good..