Broken Starter Switch

[trepetti]

Went to start up this morning and the starter button on my 05 Fizzer felt odd. Instead of moving with a pronounced snap, it feels stuck. It kinda 'bends' in when pressed, and does make contact and starts the bike, but it is clearly broken and I am worried about it starting reliably. I am also worried that it might engage the starter while running and cause all sorts of chaos,

Best I can tell, the switch is part of an assembly. Looks like a replacement is about 80 bucks.

Has anyone ever repaired the switch?

If I replace it, do I need to remove the bar end and grip, or can I just unscrew it and screw in a new one?

Help!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Went to start up this morning and the starter button on my 05 Fizzer felt odd. Instead of moving with a pronounced snap, it feels stuck. It kinda 'bends' in when pressed, and does make contact and starts the bike, but it is clearly broken and I am worried about it starting reliably. I am also worried that it might engage the starter while running and cause all sorts of chaos,

Best I can tell, the switch is part of an assembly. Looks like a replacement is about 80 bucks.

Has anyone ever repaired the switch?

If I replace it, do I need to remove the bar end and grip, or can I just unscrew it and screw in a new one?

Help!

The entire handle bar electrical assembly actually holds the throttle cables and literally holds the throttle. The cables will have to be loosened(no biggy) and the screws that hold the assembly removed. You can leave the throttle grip and bar end in place.

IF JUST REMOVING THE PUSH BUTTON (I'm assuming you got a used one), it should have a much smaller screw inside holding the switch to the main handle bar switch. There are two wires going to the front brake perch for the brake light from the same harness.

If you end up replacing with an entire new unit, throttle cable removal is the same as is the main bar housing removal. I believe the actual plug for the switch is buried under the battery box, under the tank.

Once the old switch is removed from the handlebars, follow the harness down into the recess, un-plug and remove, route the new one thru the exact same routing. This will likely take you the longest to do...

Reverse the procedure to assemble...

Good luck and please post your results...

BTW, check the "for sale section", you may find an assembly from a wrecked bike...

 

[phranK2k11]

YES, if I read your description correctly I have just had (repaired) the exact same problem.

Give me about 1hr and I'll get some pics showing the fix.

 

[trepetti]

Wow. most of my luck is usually BAD! Thanks much.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, if you get a new switch, SAVE THE KILL SWITCH, its a known failure point in that assembly...

 

[phranK2k11]

Disclaimer..."I am not a Yamaha mechanic and this repair might cause your MC to burst into a terrific ball of fire killing you and all those you love, I take no responsibility for said outcome. This is just photo documentation of a repair a "Good-Ole' boy" from WV made to his personal motor-scooter in an attempt to save a buck"

Ok, with that outta the way....

I just went out and took my switch apart and took pics that might help you resolve your issue. Assuming its the same as the prob I had about a month ago.

The tools I used;

Unplug brake switch;

Remove cable tie;

Remove 2 screws;

Remove cable cover;

Remove screw;

Note screw length/location;

Relieve cables from perch;

Open housing and remove cables;

Cut zip-tie & remove screw;

Poke out pin;

Pull the pin all the way out;

Slide open to release ball and spring (mine aren't in pic because i removed em about a month ago)

Close up the switch without the spring & ball;

Press the pin back in;

Reverse removal instructions to put it all back together. PLUG IN THE BRAKE SWITCH WIRES

The start switch will have a diffrent feel to it now but it wont feel like its bending (about to break) anymore.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So you just modded the switch by removing the innerds, correct?

I'd be real carefull that starter switch doesn't get stuck on while starting or while underway...

 

[trepetti]

Thanks, First, it's comforting to know that I have not discovered some rare, never seen before, incurable Yamaha dilemma.

There are images missing form the post. With 'Tools' as number 1, I only see 2-7 (screws on the fuel fill). Not sure if the process takes longer. Will wait. If you want you can always zip and pm me. Appreciate you taking time and re-creating the fix.

 

[regder]

I'd first try to take the switch apart and clean out where the ball sits and spray some lube in there. I get a similar problem about every 30k km that is fixed by the above.

 

[phranK2k11]

So you just modded the switch by removing the innerds, correct?

I'd be real carefull that starter switch doesn't get stuck on while starting or while underway...

By removing some of the "innerds". The spring that pushes the button out is still there. The ball and spring I removed is only there to give it a snappy feel.

There are images missing form the post. With 'Tools' as number 1, I only see 2-7 (screws on the fuel fill). Not sure if the process takes longer. Will wait. If you want you can always zip and pm me. Appreciate you taking time and re-creating the fix.

Are you trying to view them on a mobile device? The same ones are missing/visible when viewed from my Ipod but from the desktop they are there. Is anyone else having trouble viewing the pics?

I'd first try to take the switch apart and clean out where the ball sits and spray some lube in there.

Yeah, I tried cleaning/lubing it but when I put it all back together it still felt the same so I just took it out all together. Trepetti, you might want to try cleaning it first though just in case it works for you.

 

[edgeofnj]

Is anyone else having trouble viewing the pics?

I don't see all the pics either.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

By removing some of the "innerds". The spring that pushes the button out is still there. The ball and spring I removed is only there to give it a snappy feel.



Are you trying to view them on a mobile device? The same ones are missing/visible when viewed from my Ipod but from the desktop they are there. Is anyone else having trouble viewing the pics?



Yeah, I tried cleaning/lubing it but when I put it all back together it still felt the same so I just took it out all together. Trepetti, you might want to try cleaning it first though just in case it works for you.

Yep, some pictures initially posted, then later, they disappeared (viewed from a regular laptop).

As for the extra spring, ball, interesting, as long as the button retracts as it should..

 

[zacbkennedy]

can someone post the pictures and fix again, i crashed today low speed slide but now she won't start and I've had a problem getting her started with the button, it has been sticky for a while but now she doesn't want to get the spark

 

[Motogiro]

See link... http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/51698-crash.html

 

[phranK2k11]

Not sure why the links aren't working but here's the album...

http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/phrank2k11/library/FZ6 forum pics/start button repair

Unless it doesn't work either???


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

 

[phranK2k11]

Disclaimer..."I am not a Yamaha mechanic and this repair might cause your MC to burst into a terrific ball of fire killing you and all those you love, I take no responsibility for said outcome. This is just photo documentation of a repair a "Good-Ole' boy" from WV made to his personal motor-scooter in an attempt to save a buck"

Ok, with that outta the way....

I just went out and took my switch apart and took pics that might help you resolve your issue. Assuming its the same as the prob I had about a month ago.

The tools I used;


Unplug brake switch;


Remove cable tie;


Remove 2 screws;




Remove cable cover;


Remove screw;


Note screw length/location;


Relieve cables from perch;


Open housing and remove cables;


Cut zip-tie & remove screw;


Poke out pin;


Pull the pin all the way out;


Slide open to release ball and spring (mine aren't in pic because i removed em about a month ago)


Close up the switch without the spring & ball;


Press the pin back in;


Reverse removal instructions to put it all back together. PLUG IN THE BRAKE SWITCH WIRES

The start switch will have a diffrent feel to it now but it wont feel like its bending (about to break) anymore.

 

[subaron]

Is there a part number for the actual replacement of the switch? I called Yamaha and was told the entire assembly needs to be replaced and the assembly is $120.

If there is no replacement for the swtich, I suppose I will follow this guide and remove the spring and the ball as mentioned above. At the end of the day I need the bike to start reliably, even if it feels different.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is there a part number for the actual replacement of the switch? I called Yamaha and was told the entire assembly needs to be replaced and the assembly is $120.

If there is no replacement for the swtich, I suppose I will follow this guide and remove the spring and the ball as mentioned above. At the end of the day I need the bike to start reliably, even if it feels different.

Its a little more than $80.00 here (part #14);
2005 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6T) Handle Switch Lever | Babbitts Online

 

[subaron]

Thanks for the info Townsend. I ended up doing the mod above yesterday. Switch works. Feels different. However, new problem this morning. Battery appears to be dead. The bike wouldn't crank. Well at least that is what I am hoping. Going to check the battery voltage and see if I can charge it with my car. Wonder if 15 to 20 mins would be enough.

Might be time for a new battery, any recommendations?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

***If you jump start, turn the car OFF.***

The RED kill switch is turned to the RUN position correct? I'm assuming you didn't mess with that when you had the switch assembly apart??

Does the bike NOT crank over or crank and NOT start?

Putting a voltmeter across the battery (or off a SAE connector) will give you an idea on the battery. Cranking voltage should not drop below 10 volts.

A simple load test (on a fully charged battery) would let you know the health of the battery. Most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc, will do a load test, free on the battery.

IME, 3 years is generally the length of time you'll get out of a battery.


IMO, I'd stick with the Yuasa OEM battery. Amazon sells them as well.

A regular, automatic 1.25 amp battery charger is the best charger for our batteries. You'll need one if you install a new battery yourself for the initial charge.