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Brake discs - thickness?

bearings are only worth changing if they are broken or damaged, if they are sufficiently lubed then they should be ok

same with the seals, if there's no problem then leave it. it might be worth giving your calipers a clean up with some brake cleaner and a tooth brush, but unless they are sticking or leaking then i'd just leave them

I'll pass on the wheelbearings then till I actually tjeck if they are alright or not. Quite easy and quick to pull both wheels off later on and who knows - maybe I never have to change the bearings on this bike anyways :)
Plan was to refurbish the brakes completely. It's been 3 years since the calipers where separated and cleaned thorougly so I think I might aswell do the whole chabang.
Hmm why not just buy them so I got them just in case the old seals are broken... why didn't I think of that before I asked :D
 
I'll pass on the wheelbearings then till I actually tjeck if they are alright or not. Quite easy and quick to pull both wheels off later on and who knows - maybe I never have to change the bearings on this bike anyways :)
Plan was to refurbish the brakes completely. It's been 3 years since the calipers where separated and cleaned thorougly so I think I might aswell do the whole chabang.
Hmm why not just buy them so I got them just in case the old seals are broken... why didn't I think of that before I asked :D

I think he was just making a point (using bearings as an example) that if it isn't broke, don't fix it... :)

I did not rebuild the master cylinder as there wasn't anything wrong with it. As for the SS braided lines, I just wanted to upgrade the braking system. I did take my calibers apart as they (just the fronts) were sticking/dragging. I might get 3/4 a turn (on the centerstand, front wheel lifted) when they were dragging. I should have replaced the seals but just cleaned and re-assembled with with brake specific grease :

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Caliper-Brush-Top-Bottle/dp/B000HBNV6W]Amazon.com: Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 8 oz Brush-Top Bottle: Automotive[/ame]

If you look at the spec's its designed for use on the actual brake pistons.. It helps with re-assembly also... The wheel now spins at least 2 full rotations.

My 07 has 4 pistons per disc, I believe yours has two (each disc). When I replaced all the seals on my 04 FJR (4 pots per disc, same as my 07 FZ6) they didn't sell a kit, you have to buy each pair of pistons seals separatly. I had twice as many as you do and as I re-call, they were around $125.00 US.

IMHO, I wouldn't bother re-building the master cylinder unless there's a problem, leakage visual, etc. It'll drain when the lines get replaced with braided, you can gently blow air to remove any debris.

As for the pistons seals, if thier dragging a bit more than they should, go ahead and rebuild them (again, unless there is visual leakage).

If your bored and want a project, replace them, it certainly can't hurt and you know your good for at least two years... Definitly change the brake fluid in any case if over 2 years old..

BTW, when I put the old seals from my FJR next to the new ones, I could not tell a difference. Obviously, the rubber is newer and more pliable. The FJR was dragging really bad (maybe 1/4 turn) with the old seals, new seals/grease, 2+ full turns..
 
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These pictures were taken at 77,200 miles, still with stock rotor brake disc. The front still has the original brake pads, and the disc is barely worn. I use my front brake on every stop, they are barely worn.

FrontDisc.jpg


Rear discs are worn, and you can feel the grooves. They are out of limits. I have gone through several rear brake pads by the way.

RearDisc.jpg
 
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