Bike won't start!! (Video) What did I do now?!!?

[arsity]

My turn signals weren't working a few days ago, but the bike would still start. It was JUST a blown TAIL fuse. I did remove the headlight today. But now the bike is not starting! I am so frustrated right now.

What in the hell did I do?? :don'tknow:

Bike won't start - YouTube

 

[Motogiro]

Forget everthing I just said....

Open the throtlle all the way while cranking and see if she starts...

 

[arsity]

Open the throtlle all the way while cranking and see if she starts...

It worked! It took me about 8 times to finally get it running.

Before, I was afraid if i kept cranking it i would damage something.

Thank you... AGAIN! lol :thumbup:

 

[Erci]

Cliff saves the day again!! Well done, sir!

 

[DeepBlueRider]

Mine doesn't want to start sometimes if i start it and then kill it (in couple secs). To restart it I have to turn ignition on, starter switch to on and then turn on couple times ignition on and off to prime injectors (or fuel line) with fuel. You can hear when turning ignition on when starter is on fuel pumps engage for couple sec.

 

[kenh]

Forget everthing I just said....

Open the throtlle all the way while cranking and see if she starts...

On the second attempt to start it sounded like he was getting spark and maybe just a little flooded. My question is how temperamental are the plugs and do they foul out it all?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The FZ and FJR's do pretty much the same thing...

When in cold mode (richer mixture, higher idle), should you turn the bike off before you get out of that mode, you may have issues (as you likely found out).

On start up, (my sniffer works very, very well), I can smell the richness when cold. Once it idles down, can't smeel it (leans back out to normal %'s)

If you can, let it run 2-3 minutes BEFORE turning it off... If not, sometimes, it'll flood and the fix is WOT (to lean out / clear the rich mixture in the combustion chamber).

This was very common in the early FJR's(Gen I and Gen II's), the newer ones, I don't know..

The FZ6, not uncommon... Once you know what not to do, you'll probably never have an issue again (unless of course you repeat the issue).

Starting with WOT, when the bike won't start for no reason won't hurt anything. Just don't keep cranking it straight for minutes at a time (not good for the starter). 10-15 seconds at a time maybe.

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***Just looked at your video..


Your dash lights dimmed badly twice and not as bad once. This is a general indication of either a not fully charged battery (very low voltage), or a failing battery.

Once its fully charged, check the cranking voltage, shouldn't drop below 11 volts. (I suspect you'll see 7-8 volts cranking it over for your bike).

A load test will give you an idea the health of the battery (checked at most auto stores for free).. Once running, you should see close to 14 volts at 5,000 RPM's(the system is charging)

Please post the results... (If not, read up on push starting- )

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

On the second attempt to start it sounded like he was getting spark and maybe just a little flooded. My question is how temperamental are the plugs and do they foul out it all?

I think the issue you (and I heard) is due to a low charge on the battery or a failing battery, see above post ^^... :thumbup:

 

[aclayonb]

+1 on the battery. My experiences in the past have told me that pretty much every fuel delivery issue (carbs and FI) is electrical in nature and that 90% of electrical issues are the battery or the operator.

This experience primarily relates to carb problems - which are almost always an electrical failure. I've seen horribly clogged/dirty carbs and throttle bodies run great on crappy, ancient gas with a new battery. On the flip side of that, I've watched perfect fuel delivery systems that barely operate on new, premium fuel with a crap battery.

I'm not up on this specific details of this bikes electrical system but if it's anything like every other bike I've tinkered with....weak battery = weak spark = poor fuel ignition. Problems occur that look like any number of issues that would never "intuitively" be battery related.

All of my old Honda manuals start with the same troubleshooting step:

1. Verify battery is in good working order.