Accessory Driving/Fog Lights

[ChromeX]

I'm new to the FZ6 and loving every mile.
Using for commuting mostly but also those rides which generally go past dark. Twisty roads night time and some fog if out on the coast makes me want more light out front.
I've been told Don't because the electrical system can not handle any more load and would burn out the "rectifyer"(sp).
Any one have knowledge or experience?
I'm liking the PIAA's.
Thanks,
Ed

 

[wrightme43]

Man I do not know for sure.

My headlamps on high beams have both lows running and the high, never a problem in over 18k miles.

So if you left the bulbs alone I cant see how it would hurt.

 

[ChromeX]

I put a headlight modulation kit in instead of running dual. It's pretty cool, car an other bikers have told me I'm noticed.
The photocell works great when it gets dark i.e. stops the modulation full on high beam or of course low via handlebar switch.
I'm asking just don't want what they are telling me to happen way out in the middle of no where. Don't think I want to carry a spare rectifier either an that's not including burned up wiring.

 

[rrandall]

You might try a volt/amp reduction circuit. It really drops the load on your rectifier but only drops light output by about 25%. It might give you the extra light you need, Electrical Connection in Knoxville TN has them and I'm sure there are other sources. Volt/Amp Reduction Circuit

 

[dako81]

Just a thaught,

My rear spring was set on the "3" preload position when I got the bike. I wasn't really satisfied with the headlights at night, especially 2-up.

I upped the preload to "6" and it is MUCH MUCH better.

Have you thaught about doing an HID conversion?

 

[Fred]

I've been told Don't because the electrical system can not handle any more load and would burn out the "rectifyer"(sp).
Any one have knowledge or experience?

I don't know anything about electricity, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn last night.

The regulator/rectifier won't burn out. It's designed to handle as much amperage as the FZ6's alternator can produce. In fact, the regulator/rectifier is less stressed when you're using more power. See, excess power is dumped as heat. If you're using more power, there's less excess and so the reg/rec stays cooler. Neat, huh?

The risk you run is that your additional driving lights will cause your bike to use more power than the alternator can produce in the first place. The extra power needed is going to come from your battery, so you run the risk of draining your battery while you're riding. I doubt that you'd sputter to a halt on the highway because of this. More likely, you'll be able to keep riding, unaware that your bike's electrical system is operating at 10 volts instead of the needed 12-14. And your battery's at 10 volts too. You'll find out the next time you go to start the bike.

The best way to check is to wire the lights in temporarily, and also wire in a voltmeter that you can see while you're riding. Go for an hourlong ride with the lights on and watch the system voltage. If it is slowly dropping, then you've got too much draw.

Hope this helps.

Fred