88 FZ6 needs carbs cleaned/need advice on cost

[gemini9282]

I have an 88' FZ 600 which I haven't had running for a while. When I try and start it with full choke, I still have to give it a little gas and hold it like that for several minutes. After about 5 it revs up and it's rideable but dies when I try to let it idle? Any help about what it might cost to have repaired or tuned up would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ron P.S. And where in OKC Is the best place to have this done. Thanks

 

[ChevyFazer]

Before having someone look at it or try to.repair it i would first run 1 or 2 treatments of seafoam through the tank with fresh gas or at least some general fuel treatment and also take a can of carb and choke cleaner and spray them down good first. I would try that first

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[CBRF3RIDER]

You might also want to try cranking up your idle speed a little bit, it might be too low and the bike is stalling as a result. Typically its a little knob down on the left side of the bike, usually somewhat near the pet****. Twist it counter-clockwise to raise the idle. Be carful though because you can unscrew it all the way on accident- its a PITA to re-attach the cable to the carbs.

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

*petc o c k
lol

 

[dean owens]

are you mechanical? does the thought of carb cleaning scare you? if you're slightly mechanical you should be able to do your carbs. just make sure to take notes of how many turns various screws are screwed out and take photos of anything you think might be tricky to get back together. you can boil your carbs in a 10/1 water lemon juice mixture. just make sure you do it outside. it'll make your house smell like lemon juice, gas and nasty. if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner they work wonders. i use an ultrasonic cleaner and a 6/1 simple green PRO and water. it does the trick.


[edit] oh, but i agree to check your idle screw and run some seafoam through the tank. do the simple stuff before doing the hard stuff.

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

To add to Deans post, you might even be able to get away with just cleaning the jets. If it wont idle after youve done the idle adjustment but it revs fine in the higher RPM range, you might just have clogged slow speed jets. Doesnt take much to clean them, but you still have to remove the carbs (you dont have to break them apart though). A proper full cleaning of the carberators would be ideal, but if your not ready to break them apart cleaning the jets would be the next best thing. However, even if you get the carbs spotless you still HAVE to sync them for the bike to idle and run properly, so keep that in mind. Most shops charge $100 or more to sync carbs but its easy to do if you have the tool.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To add to Deans post, you might even be able to get away with just cleaning the jets. If it wont idle after youve done the idle adjustment but it revs fine in the higher RPM range, you might just have clogged slow speed jets. Doesnt take much to clean them, but you still have to remove the carbs (you dont have to break them apart though). A proper full cleaning of the carberators would be ideal, but if your not ready to break them apart cleaning the jets would be the next best thing. However, even if you get the carbs spotless you still HAVE to sync them for the bike to idle and run properly, so keep that in mind. Most shops charge $100 or more to sync carbs but its easy to do if you have the tool.

+1 on the above.. Your idle jets are clogged up and are accesable after removing the float bowls. They are usually right adjacent to the main jets. The holes in these jet are extremely small. The jets MUST be removed and make sure you can see light thru them once cleaned... try and be very gentle as the castings are old and you may have to use some lubricant to break them loose

Seafoam works very well. Prior to pulling the carbs, you may try draing all the carbs, (should be a screw on the bottom of the float bowl to drain). Drain all the fuel and close the drain screws. Fill up each bowl, (thru the fuel line) with straight Seafoam and let sit overnight. Drain and then refill with fuel (with some Seafoam added). You may luck out and have the varnise/gunk blow out. I have done this once before on a friends Kawasaki 500 that would not run after sitting under a tarp, no gas additve, in humid Floirdia for over a year, period. He didn't want to pull the carbs, so we tried this and it worked (much to my surprise!)

If you have to bring it to a shop, figure 3-4 hours labor, beginning to end. It really isn't hard to do.. Just take your time....

I don't know what carbs you have on the bike but the below link will give you a general idea what to expect inside:

Keihin 32CVK Disassembly

Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb


You can look up your carb here and see basically how it assembles:
Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

Here's your carb: http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/...ry=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1988&fveh=265 Part #12 is the idle jet...
If you just remove the float bowls it still should be synced, but DO NOT DISCONNECT EACH CARB from each other, there's no reason to and it'll cause more problems than you already have..

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

If you are going the route that Townsend and I described, you might also want to order yourself some float bowl gaskets given how old your bike is. They are relatively cheap but will save you a big headache once you get everything back together. It sucks going to fire up your bike after going through the hassle of putting everything back together just to have a leaking float bowl (trust me I know haha).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you are going the route that Townsend and I described, you might also want to order yourself some float bowl gaskets given how old your bike is. They are relatively cheap but will save you a big headache once you get everything back together. It sucks going to fire up your bike after going through the hassle of putting everything back together just to have a leaking float bowl (trust me I know haha).

+1 on that, they'll most likely be dry rotted.

 

[shuckle]

The Clymer Book is well worth the money. It walks you through taking things apart.

Clymer Yamaha YX600 Radian and FZ600 1986-1990

 

[fb40dash5]

I always dipped carbs in a gallon bucket of carb cleaning goo from Napa, the blue can with the dip basket. It's big enough to get 2 carbs at a time in, still racked.

Once you have the carbs out, it's pretty easy. I just disassembled them on a workbench, leaving the hats and slides on the bench in a line. Then pull the bowls, note which jets go where and pull them and put them in each bowl. Then pull the floats and float needles/seats, and put them in their respective hats. The bowls go in the carb cleaner in order, then the bodies, and I spray everything with carb cleaner when I pull it out. I know you're supposed to pull the carbs from the racks and take out the throttle shafts, seals, all that, but I never did, and never had problems... just don't leave the carb bodies in for a whole weekend or anything like that. That and setting float levels hasn't failed me yet.

In addition to bowl gaskets, I'd advise at least checking on the springs, spring seats and O-rings for the adjustment screws. I've had 50/50 luck on getting them out in reusable condition.

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

OP, did you decide if your going to tear into them or not? Looks like weve got a pretty knowledgeable and helpful crew ready to help you out if you do :Flash: