3000RPM idle after warmup in cold weather

[PattyBoyBK]

Hi. So the weather is getting cold again and after warm up my 2004 fz6 is idling at 3000rpm.
It started doing this last year around the same time of year, then stopped when the warmer weather began, and i thought the issue just went away.
Now i realize its only happens when the weather is below around 50°F.
So what could be causing this?
Is there a wax idle valve or something like that im not aware of?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Are you not able to adjust the idle with the knob?

Check your diagnostic codes. You may find Code 03 (Fault 14) that indicates "Intake air pressure sensor - hose system malfunction (clogged or detached hose)".

You may have an issue with the Air Cut-Off Valve. If it is hanging open you will get an increased RPM. The issue could be as simple as corrosion in the connector, or as involved as an ECU error. There is a cleaning/measurement procedure in the FSM for testing the reed valves and Air Induction system.

 

[PattyBoyBK]

When the idle is high the adjustment knob doesnt do much, but when its idling normal during warm days it works as it should.
I just checked, there were 6 error codes 12, 13, 15, 19, 22, 30.
I reset them for the first time since having the bike, and restarted a few times checking error codes each time, and now there are zero error codes.
Its not as cold outside tonight to so the idle only rose to around 2000 rpm after warmup.
Just a little background info, i lowsided the bike at low speed two years ago. The bike sat for a year as my leg healed. When i began riding again it was fall, and thats when i first noticed the high idle at night when the temps are colder, and began investigating by checking the TPS, and air temp sensors with a multimeter both of which are in spec.

 

[Gary in NJ]

If the bike is stored outside I would suspect corrosion in the connectors more so then a number of senor systems failing at the same time. Take the time to clean the critical connectors with contact cleaner and a tooth brush. If you do discover any corrosion, be sure to apply dielectric grease to the mating surfaces (not the contacts) of the connectors.

 

[PattyBoyBK]

Ive swaped out the sensors, and cleaned all the mating surfaces. There are no new codes after being cleared. I still cant find this issue. It was 75°f out today and it ran like a champ, but now at night the temp dropped to 45°f, and its right back to 3000 rpm idle.
Im narrowing down to where i think the issue is, and have a few questions if you dont mind?.
Does the FZ6 have a wax auto valve? I cant find any mention of it in the manual, but Ive seen people mention it.
Also someone in another forum said they had the same issue as me, and found a stuck auto-choke was causing the problem. They havent responded to my question, wheres the auto-choke?
Does auto-choke mean the Idle Air Control Valve with the idle screw on the side? So if something in there is stuck then id just have to take it apart, and give it a good cleaning to resolve its issue? Or possibly swap it out with a new one?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check post # 2 (from Gary):

https://www.600riders.com/threads/bad-idle-and-bogging-checked-a-lot-already.60641/

See if it helps...

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

There are no chokes on an EFI engine. The air:fuel ratio is managed by the ECU.

 

[tuning-forks]

There are no chokes on an EFI engine. The air:fuel ratio is managed by the ECU.

I think the people calling it 'auto-choke' are referring to the same coolant temp sensor you mentioned in the other thread. Here it is being called 'auto-choke'.

M

Question Post in thread 'Temperature dependent idle issues??'

Dec 28, 2023

behind this black cap is the auto choke, mine whose stuck.
i screw the little safety nut, then the revs goes hi when the engine was cold, i turn it back to the original position and now works fine, that s why i suppose it whose stuck.

• Makiabelhs

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