2008 wheel change/replacement/rebuild question...

[okkomatz]

I've been looking around and I'm trying to come up with a general list of items I'll need. Back in the fall I was riding at night and hit something in the middle of the road that put a dent in both my front and rear rim. Luckily I didn't drop the bike or crash! Now tires still hold air and I don't get and wobble afterwards, BUT I'm fixing it finally.

I just ordered newer straight front and rear rims. They're being shipped but I don't believe they are coming with anything. For the most part I was just gonna switch over the items from my previous set. But what I'm trying to figure out is if there's anything I NEED to replace new.. Like wheel bearings, should I go ahead and do chain and sprockets, etc..? I've got new tires coming, and brakes looked fine.

Any other ideas?

 

[gtosteve65]

It really all depends on how many miles you have on the bike. Just replace things that are getting close to the end of their life. I wouldn't go crazy. Half the time the original is always the best.

 

[payneib]

You'll have to replace the bearings and the seals as they get destroyed by taking them out. Other than that, everything else is easily swapped.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Can't imagine why anyone would take the effort to remove them. As stated, they are damaged during removal...
That said, it doesnt mean the PO didn't pressure wash them, run the bike through a creek, etc so it could be a wise plan to go for replacement.
The rears needle bearing is no fun tho as the lip is so small and its pressed in.

I have pictures somewhere if you need them.

 

[okkomatz]

Thanks for the replies guys. I knew it'd be best to at least do the wheel bearings and seals.. Thinking I might as well do the chain and sprockets.. Has just over 10k miles and don't know if previous owner replaced prior.

Can't imagine why anyone would take the effort to remove them. As stated, they are damaged during removal...
That said, it doesnt mean the PO didn't pressure wash them, run the bike through a creek, etc so it could be a wise plan to go for replacement.
The rears needle bearing is no fun tho as the lip is so small and its pressed in.

I have pictures somewhere if you need them.

Any help/pictures are greatly appreciated!!

 

[FinalImpact]

It could be 48 hrs but I'll look.

Also I'm at 25k, chain looks great. Save your money unless its bad.

 

[FinalImpact]

It could be 48 hrs but I'll look.

Also I'm at 25k, chain looks great. Save your money unless its bad.

Note: pictures were taken during maintenance work or tire replacement. All bearings are stock and have 25K mi on them.


REPLACING THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS:
1) Pull out the collars on both sides. They both pull out by hand.

2) Pop the seals with a screw driver, push the inner sleeve to the side, then use something like a long extension to through one side to hit the INNER race of the other side.
3) Be sure to rotate where you strike the bearing so you don't c0ck the bearing on the way out.
4) Repeat from the other side once bearing and inner sleeve are out.
5) When installing. Clean the core area and grease the bearings edges.
6) Use the OLD bearing as driver to install the near bearing. DO NOT STRIKE THE INNER RACE! Use a Socket that touches the OUTER RACE and pound it in until the sound changes tone and it completely stops moving.
NOTE: Do NOT leave the bearing spacer (item # 2) out when the last wheel bearing is being installed!

7) With both bearings in, verify they rotate smooth by hand.
8) Press the seals using a socket.
9) Grease them with high speed water proof grease.
10) Done - Assemble the front end.


Pictures from FROM HERE: 2007++ FZ6 Parts Reference Diagram/Images X46

See item # 2 here:

TAGS:
BEARING 93306-00420-00
OIL SEAL 93106-28043-00
SPACER, BEARING 4XV-25117-00-00
AXLE, WHEEL 4XV-25181-00-00
COLLAR 90387-22002-00
CAST WHEEL, FRONT 5SL-25168-00-98



THE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS:
As for the back, the bearing in the hub carrier #13 - I would leave it alone unless yours has issues or some roughness.


NOTICE #5 CIRCLIP (93420-61M07-00) It must be removed using internal Snap Ring Pliers BEFORE you try to remove the bearing.

Notice one of the bearings is a needle bearing with a hardened case which is VERY thin and will be difficult to remove without the proper tools as there is barely any access to the lip to drive it out. And once you break the lip off, the bearing has to be cut out using a high speed rotary bit. Proceed with caution on this. As in Make sure you want to commit as once you strike it, there is NO turning back. So either clean and inspect it or cross your fingers and use it. If you clean it, You have to hand pack the proper grease back into to. Not just smear it on the bearings but forcibly pack grease into the bearing.


Another member had a serious fight with the needle bearing:

Needle Bearings in hardened shell:
Bearing spacer is visible beyond the bearing:

Hub Carrier and bearing:

Random - Sunstar 48 tooth compared to OEM 46 tooth. Notice how much material has been removed. Its much lighter than the OEM sprocket.

I'm out of time for a write up on the rear.... main rule is do NOT pound on the INNER Race of your new bearings. It will Ruin them! Only press or pound on the outer race.
Let me know if you need input on the rear install....