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Everyone grumbles about the FZ6 changing gears and for me, I think that some of the problem is that the gear-lever has a very long "throw" (arc that it travels through). So, what I thought of doing is shortening the arm of the lever that is actuated on the other end of the linkage (the one...

Sorry, yes a bit of a tongue-in-cheek remark of mine about UK gallons... there's more litres in them and yes we pay nearly twice what you guys in the US pay for your fuel. We are at £5 per gallon or £1.11 per litre.... And who does it all go to? The oil companies - the high prices are as a...

Come to England, our gallons go further! :rockon: 56 mpg for me :Sport:

Have you raised your front tyre pressure? That'll make it feel a bit less grippy...

Hey thanks. PS, no relation of mine...

You can get grip-specific glue, but I always use contact adhesive. Whatever you do, don't use epoxy or super glue or you won't be able to clean it off the next time you change grips!

No, you won't get a continuous spark. Igniton coils fire a spark on a change (interruption) of current. If you keep the current constant nothing will happen (apart from the coil getting warm). Anyway, for what you're trying to do, if it works, you probably don't need a continuous spark...

Or get another longer bolt, tighten the clamp up, to get everything squeezed together, and then replace it with the original bolt.

Tried ear-plugs last week for the first time ever (on a bike) but I'm not convinced. Yes they do cut out a lot of wind noise, but they also cut down a lot of other noises too, especially sounds of the motor and of the tyres on the road. I don't know how much these contribute to the rider's...

No, you'd need to modify it to fit an H4 and also run the high-beam wire to it. There was somebody on the forum a month or so ago that did that (made an adapter to put in an H4 instead of the H7).

Neil, you need to get a dual filament bulb (H4) into the LHS.

The issue with powder coating is that the cure process requires the item to be heated to nearly 200°C, so plastic and rubber might melt at those temps. Bronze, or any other bearing material can be left in there and either taped up or bunged (to keep the paint-powder off it). Anodising is...

Depending on how bad they are, you might be able to clean the down-pipes up with wire wool. Use it conjunction with a metal polish.

The screws that hold the baffles are underneath on the outlets. I've had mine from new and they are other. As the other guys said, it's a 2 minute job to get them out.

I'm convinced that ambient temperature has something to do with it. If you keep your bike in a warm garage, the battery lasts a long-time. That and anti-theft devices...

Here's a story for you: on my XT600 winter bike I let the drive chain get so loose that it would hit the top frame-roller on the over-run. Before I knew that is what was happening, I had convinced myself that it was internal to the gearbox. I was a gnat's from hoiking the the engine out for a...

That looks like the H4-3 kit then! I guess you're putting it on the RH side?

Nice one! Just don't go around calling everyone a "Big Jessie"...:)

Damn, I only saw the moon walking bear on the 3rd viewing!

Be aware that it's not straight-forward with the H4 on the high beam side. There are at least 3 types of H4 kits: H4Lo - the Xenon bulb does just the low beam and there is a halogen filament for the high beam. H4Hi - the Xenon bulb does just the high beam and there is a halogen filament for...