Just over 25k miles. OCI's are between 3 and 5k miles, full synthetic. Miles are mostly touring but she does see full rpm range every ride. I was surprised as well that they were tight. I measured them all multiple times because I figured I was wrong.
I wrote that partially incorrectly. Not all of my valves were out of spec, but the ones that were, were too tight. See chart below, all values are metric (mm).
I used admore lighting on my givi sidecases to do just this. 2 wire led's and their controller switches them from running lights to brake to turn signals. Maybe you could get one of their controllers to do this for your top case.
Re: WTB - Valve Shim Kit 7.48mm, complete or partial
I'm doing my valve checks this winter and am willing to toss the shim kit to this (assuming I have to buy any).
I have givi v35 cases on mine and leave them on all the time. Most of my riding does not require that much space but I don't even notice they are there. Cost me a fair bit more than $400 for cases with racks.
Tip for lining up the battery screw with lots of terminals. If you cut a plastic wall anchor in half and shove it under the nut, it will keep the nut up so the screw can reach easier. Plus since the anchor is plastic, it will squish when you tighten it. :)
I am in the same boat. My PR2's are dead after 16k miles. Decided to go with PR4's this time as I ride in the rain often. I'll be happy if they do at least as well as the 2's did.
You can use the trace tool on a neutral and ground. We only really use those when we need to know where in a wall a wire runs. Your best bet is to start at the panel and work forward. If it is an older house, they liked to wire the hots into the lights first and then drop out. May be somewhere...
I have the morimoto set up in my bike. I've been running projector hids for 3 or 4 years now. I have seen a decrease in the amount of people that pull out in front of me during the day, especially at night. As to your other question, mine runs the d2s bulbs.