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Just clean it up...and try not to add any new scratches (that's why I suggested a gasket removal tool). I read section 5 of the FSM. It is very well written and specific. You are doing great work...that bike is lucky to have found you.

Your LED lights could be another cause of poor beam projection. While most LED lights are bright, few produce a usable beam. Here is an excellent video that shows how different LED lights are between manufacturers

Plastigauge is a way of measuring the clearance between two surfaces where conventional measurements aren’t possible. You can use any bearing (that isn’t too tight) as long as you know it’s actual size/thickness. With the Plasigauge in place the bearings and/or rod caps are torqued to spec. The...

WD-40 is a cleaner. While it has oil in mixture, lubrication is not its primary purpose.

Photos look good. No need to disassemble the head…just get the carbon off. Theres no reason to remove the rings from the pistons…leave them on. The pistons and rings can go in the ultrasonic…it will loosen the carbon but not likely remove it. But after a 20 minute bath they will be easy to clean.

Assembly lube is different from motor oil in that it is sticky and won’t run from where it is placed. With the head removed Valve clearance can be checked without reference to engine timing. However you will need to clock the cam and hold it in place while you take measurements. It’s very easy...

My guess is something made its way into one of the 8 passageways where the shaft goes through the throttle bodies and is now causing resistance to movement. The oil should flush the FOD clean. I’d let it sit a few days and exercise it again to confirm the problem is gone before final reassembly.

Send photos of the inside of the cylinders. If there isn’t any scoring and the cross hatching is in good shape, you should be able to reuse the rings. With the head off, now would be a good (and easy) time to check the valve clearances. Get a gasket scraping tool to remove the old head gasket...

Rebuilding or replacing the oil pump is certainly a good “belt & suspenders” approach. As I noted in an early post, I see some spalling on the crank which would indicate a manufacturing defect. But I agree, if going this deep into a repair, know for sure the condition of the oil pump.

I wasn’t suggesting unplugging the TPS, I was suggesting removing the TPS from the assembly. It is possible that the TPS is damaged and is restricting movement of the shaft. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle wheel OR the TPS. Either step will reveal the next step.

I have removed pistons from the crank area before, but not on a Yamaha. The bore is consistent from top to bottom so I don’t see a reason the piston assembly won’t slide out. Pull on the conrod and see what is keeping the piston from falling out. If it’s just the rings…go ahead and compress the...

Excellent progress. A few points: 1. You should be able to extract the piston assembly from the crankcase without removing the head. As you know, the repair will go much easier/faster with the less disassembly. 2. Any bearings that show groves or copper must be replaced. 3. Here is the hard...

I very much doubt that it gets below freezing in your garage in Texas. Given the maintenance that you've done on the cable and throttle tube, I'd suspect corrosion where the throttle valve plate shaft go through the throttle bodies themselves - or most likely the TPS which sits on the same shaft...

If your OEM shock is worn, then a new shock will improve ride and handling. I have the YA403 and think it’s an improvement. Almost any aftermarket shock will be an improvement from the OEM emulsion shock…however the question is it a $600-$1,000 improvement? The OEM shock on my second FZ6 is not...

Welcome. The knowledge isn’t lost…just the photos. If you have any direct questions don’t hesitate to ask.

Worth a try. The reasoning behind creating an aluminum substructure is that it creates structural integrity between the broken parts and the broken piece becomes a facade that sits securely on the substructure.

You can repair cracks in ABS plastic with heat (a process known as plastic welding), but breaks are more difficult. My thought is to create a backing plate that connects to the remaining parts of the fairing where the is good structural integrity, and attach the broken piece of the fairing to...

Merry Christmas to all.

Love the body work. Give us the details.

Engine rebuilds are not complicated. The key(s) to success are to have the correct tools, follow the FSM, and be extremely organized by cleaning everything, bagging and tagging as you go and laying it out in a logical order. You will also need to identify a trustworthy shop that will be able...