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Just do a search for "motorcycle front wheel axle tool" and you'll find plenty.

A couple of other points: 1) If you lower the gear lever too much, it can catch against the mounting bolts for the side stand, so check it will move freely. 2) If you find the clutch too heavy, you can replace the actuator arm on top of the clutch housing (by your right knee) with one from the...

In the back of the Haynes manual are wiring diagrams showing the different colours. It may take a bit of time, but you should be able to work out which one you're looking at on your existing loom and what they should connect to on the new cluster.

You need a copy of the wiring diagrams with the colours shown, eg you can find them in the Haynes manual. There's probably a copy you can download from in here, but I don't know where, so maybe someone else can point in the right direction.

Here's a post from someone else who had the same problem: https://600riders.com/threads/fz6-n-instrument-cluster-acting-up.58504/ Rather than replacing the cluster or paying someone to fix it, you can open it up and, if you have the same issue as the person in that link, spray on some WD40...

Firstly check the wires and connectors that go from under the tank to the instrument cluster for corroded pins or loose wires. If those seem ok, trace them back and do the same to the ECU under the seat. (Did you post this on Facebook too? ;) )

The throttle snatch (or jerk) on the FZ6 is caused by an "emission reducing" tweak by Yamaha. When you roll off the throttle, eg in a bend, the ECU cuts the fuel delivery, so no emissions. When you open it up again, there's a momentary lag causing a jerk. There are various ways of getting rid...

The S2 model (2007-2009) was an improvement on the original S (faired) model, eg they put better brakes on, redesigned the swing arm slightly and made the rear footpeg hangers bolt on, rather than welded on, so you could remove them if you want. I think that seller you mention is trying it on...

Switch the ignition on and press the Select Button until you see E: 0 which is a digital rev counter. Start the engine and see what the figures say. Ideally it should be between 1250 and 1350 rpm. It does sound as if you've got an aftermarket exhaust which I've seen mentioned by other people...

Usually you'll pay a premium for Iridium, but if they're cheaper, go for them.

I've heard of people replacing the twin pot sliding brake calipers with the S2 four pot version, so maybe it's just a mod for better braking. As regards the ABS, have a look at the right hand side of the front wheel hub. If there's a black disc with a wire coming out of it, then it's got ABS.

I'm glad that YOUR experience has been so satisfactory and YOU haven't seen anyone posting that they've had problems. Please understand that I am saying that OTHERS have had problems, even though you may not be aware of it. Now if you want to get the last word in, please do so with my blessing.

What country are you in? There have been different models depending on the location of the original import. Is the coolant expansion reservoir behind the downpipes or under the fuel tank? Also do you have a full history of the bike? Maybe a previous owner did some modifications.

You're so unwilling to believe that a low idle can cause stalling because of your "ten years and 30,000 miles" of experience and as you've "not read or seen it on these forums in 16 years", so, if you're so confident, why not turn down the idle and test your hypothesis? Unless you're worried...

Tell you what, use the screw under the tank to reduce your idle to about 900, then go out for a ride and let us know what happens.

You can check the plugs without draining the coolant and removing the radiator by undoing the radiator bolts and carefully moving it a little bit forward to give you more space. Then use the hinged tool from the kit under the seat to take the plugs out and see if they're in good condition...

The E: nnnn is a digital rev counter. You get to it by switching the ignition on, then pressing Select so it goes from Odometer/ Trip 1/ Trip 2/ Revs It's more accurate than the LCD scale around the edge of the display. To clear old error codes, go to Diag 62 and turn the kill switch to ON.

I'm glad you've never had that issue. On other FZ6 groups I've seen posts from people where their bike has stalled from this and fixed it by raising the idle to the correct level.

Is there a problem with the old one? You can buy replacements for OEM versions or there are aftermarket models online instead if you want. ADDENDUM: Ah, just seen your other post where you say the LCD is damaged. I've seen people in FZ6 groups on Facebook who have put in aftermarket versions...

The idle does sound a bit rough, have you checked the spark plugs? I know you say they were replaced 2 years and not many miles ago, but if there's any build up or soot etc on them it could indicate another issue.