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That's actually one of the less ticky FZ6's I've heard. They can be fine and have quite a lot of noise.

Definitely do that MT07 clutch lever mod.

Thanks for the reply. It isn't something that would bother me either just making sure mostly the 110 wasn't a big issue before I bought it.

Not that anyone cares but I am back. Sold my 2006 FZ6 early 2022, and I actually did miss it so I upgraded to a 37k mile 2008 FZ6 for $1100USD ($1400CAD). I couldn't resist getting another. Anyways, due to very limited stock on a lot of tires I'm looking at right now, I might need to run a...

Yeah, good point. Thanks. I know the exhaust get even hotter hence they always have a larger spec. I wish these motors were a little quieter but they have quite an orchestra to them of valve and cam chain noise. I almost went ahead and replaced the cam chain just to see, but decided not to...

I am thinking I am not going to bother taking the cams out and all the hassle that goes with swapping the shim. Did the first valve check late, 47,000km on the dash. (40k first check) I have no tight valves (intake 0.13-0.20, ex 0.23-0.30), infact, I have a couple exhaust valves that are around...

It honestly isn’t idling that great, it’s a bit choppy and low and I didn’t adjust anything at all or even remove the throttle body etc. That’s the main reason I thought maybe something was up. It’s possible that plug isn’t even from the fz6 though.

Had my bike apart some and have a left over brown hose plug. Want to avoid a big vacuum leak, and thinking I'm missing a hose that should be plugged, that isn't a vent (that shouldn't be plugged...). Basically can anyone think of any other hoses, besides the 4 sync hoses that should have a...

How do you unclip the metal part from the connector itself? Going to extend the low beam wire to the high beam plug empty spot and it will just use both LED filaments on high beam.

Yeah I figured I could drill them out, but I wanted to try the method of just grinding a slot into it and using a screw driver first. I seem to have good luck with that.

I have done that, unfortunately the cylinder is in the way of where I need access to.

Okay I finally have some pictures to make this clearer. The removal of the harness clip was just step one, I also need to dremel slots into these "break away" bolts so I can get the ignition cylinder off completely. I'm trying to tap the hole at the top in the first picture, so I can mount the...

sorry to be clear I have the triple completely off, it’s hanging by the ignition wire. I need to somehow free it. Whether it’s from disconnecting the clip or removing the key switch from the top triple somehow.

How do you even remove the ignition from the triple? I couldn’t see any obvious bolts. I just need to get the triple off to tap a new hole in it. I would prefer to leave the connector alone if possible. My ignition is fine.

There are no obvious tabs to unclip the connector like you would see on most standard wiring harness connectors. Does anyone know where to press or whatever to get this apart? Trying to remove the top triple clamp and I guess this has to go along with it.

I did finally get it off, by removing that little side piece. One thing I did overlook is how steep the underside turns up, making the access from the fuel pump hole to the very corner logo area pretty difficult with some sort of dent removal tool.

Having a hard time figuring out where this tab even is on the pump. Can't get it out as one piece at the moment so trying this method but can't figure it out. How far out does the pump have to be to access this spot?

Thanks everyone that’s great news. Seems I will be able to smooth this dent out easier than I expected with the proper tools.

Thanks, I figured as much. I guess bondo it is. Can't do PDR because the paint chipped off at the dent. Otherwise that would be my best option.

Thanks folks. Maybe I won't do it lol. If I do remove the fuel pump, how open is the inside of the tank? Would I be able to fix a dent that is near the logo on the side? Or it's not accessible?