High idle after using some injector cleaner

[fazil]

Hello friends, after a long time,

Last week i put some Liqui Moly injector cleaner to my 2005 Fz6 and gone for a pretty long ride like 150km.
Then after coming back home, i realised that idle was a little bit higher than normal. Like 1500Rpm instead of 1300.

I tried to adjust it from idle screw and turned it all the way out, but no respond. Still the same.
May be while making the thtotle body sync. i used all the tolerance of the air screws. I'm not sure about it.
I don't have a sync tool at hand. May be i can try to turn off all the air screws like 1 turn all together to make the idle screw functional again.
What do you think?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Try turning the "base screw" out one full turn, then sync..

Dunno how successful you'll be W/O a sync tool..





.

 

[fazil]

Thanks Scott. I did it today.
Now the idle is around 1250 Rpm again after some air screw adjustments.
No syncronization anymore but sounds better.
I made my own tool last year but the height of the hoses were not enough. It looks like they should be at least 1.5- 2 meters to work properly.
May be i can try that again soon..,

By the way, i have a spare throttle body laying around.
May be also i can try to put it on.
Meanwhile i can clean the injectors one by one may be...

Do you use injector cleaner etc?

Greetings....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, if it's idling again, I don't see a reason to swap TB's

I'd concentrate more on getting / making a sync tool. You need to get those
adjusted properly.:



As for injection cleaner, I've never had mine out but do use Yamaha's Ring Free additive:

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Yamalube-ACC-RNGFR-PL-12-Ring-Additive/dp/B002GU4SN2?th=1

I run this in EVERY gas powered machine I own as well as my customers (small engine repair)
machines.. It does actually work and well worth it in preventive maintenance.

Now my bike is run 365 days a year, I have the idle set for 1,000 RPMs (smoother idle IMO).

I OFTEN see improvement in say 2 stroke weed eaters, highest RPM's I can get-
initially fixed. Let it sit over night, I can tune (with a tach), noticeably more RPMs out of the
engine.

 

[fazil]

Do you use that injector cleaner regularly or once in a year or so? Do you feel difference in idle Rpm after using it?
I haven't used it for a long time and it affected idle. May be some stuck holes are cleaner now, who knows...
1000Rpm is very nice if it's smooth. I can try to adjust mine to 1000 also next time.
But first i should make a valve adjustment may be. I've never done it.
Bike is like 45k km's and 20 years old.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's an old video I made for showing charging purposes, but you can see and hear the idle.
18,000 miles with ^^ video. Currently at 38,000 miles and just as smooth running

https://flic.kr/p/LDtUch

Ring Free is ALWAYS in the bike (and everything else I own).
You can do a shock treatment with it. Much cheaper than sending them out /
down time, etc, if it works. Again, preventative maintenance.

It took me much digging but for shock treatment, it takes 2 OZ per gallon,
not 1 oz per 10 gallons

 

[fazil]

I'll do the same about idle after i see this video.
By the way, did you ever check valve clearances or change cam chain or tensioner so far?
I have a spare cam chain and tensioner waiting to be installed also.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I checked and adjusted the clearances and found one exhaust valve .001" too tight.
Not much at all out of spec but I was there and figured get it to spec. That was at
26,600 miles(almost exactly). Still has the original chain and tensioner to date (no noises)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have a new chain and tensioner on hand, I would put it in while there.

Better there than collecting dust!

.

 

[fazil]

Cleanest bike i've ever seen...

 

[fazil]

You're right.
I'll do.
Also i'll check valves.

 

[fazil]

Update,
I bought a Morgan Carbtune lately, after my home made sync tool failed.
Tried Carbtune yesterday. And it works perfectly. I did the adjustments at idle and 4000 rpm both nicely.
But some problems still remained.
The idle can not go below 1500 rpm in any condition. (I adjusted CO settings to +8 and +12 )
I played with all 4 syncrhonisation screws including first cylinder screw.
I had to close second adjustment screw to the end to make the adjustments.
Looks like second cylinder has some air leak may be?

Then i unscrew all the 4 air screws out to check little orings. Found similar orings and replaced them.
No difference.
Now bike runs okay but i can't lower the idle.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Opening the base screw to 7/8 turns out, (CC), should allow you to turn the ide idle down..

.

 

[fazil]

I turned idle screw all thew way out (counter clockwise) no change.

 

[grahammarsden]

Check the vacuum take-offs on the cylinders.

A couple of mine had holes worn through them which prevented me from getting the idle down to the correct level.

 

[fazil]

you mean intake vacuum lines that are connected to carbtune, while throttle body synchronisation?
(hoses seen below)

 

[grahammarsden]

you mean intake vacuum lines that are connected to carbtune, while throttle body synchronisation?
(hoses seen below)

Yes, I believe so.

I think mine had worn through where they connect to the cylinders at the top of your picture.

 

[fazil]

Problem solved
I removed air box to see what was wrong.
Idle was not getting below 1500 rpm and while making throttle body synchonisation, 2nd screw was not working. I had to screw down to the end.
Just a little hole on the vacuum hose where it connects to intake cylinder. That makes all the trouble.
Cut out that part of the hose, now it feels like a new bike.





I've missed that calm 1000 rpm idling. It makes a huge difference while riding also at idle. Much more silent.



While working with intake i also checked chooke part (it may have an other name) if it moves freely.
That brass part doesn't move but the other part (seen on the left at the picture below) has a long spring inside and it moves freely.
I lubed them using WD40 first then used some silicone gress sprey.



This part is directly connected to radiator with two hoses. Adjusts pilot air intake with the water temperature while engine is cold. (i guess)
But how it moves i don't know. it has a little pin inside.



And now all the cylinders work in a hormony...
Adjustment was easy.




So nothing related with injector cleaner i guess, i don't know what caused the hole on that little hose.
Keep in mind, just a little hole can make a huge difference in life of a motorcycle.
Thanks for the help.

Bike is now 21 years old. May be i should change those hoses. They are 4mm inside diameter hoses. I need to find some...

 

[grahammarsden]

This part is directly connected to radiator with two hoses. Adjusts pilot air intake with the water temperature while engine is cold. (i guess)
But how it moves i don't know. it has a little pin inside.

I believe that there is wax inside. When it's cold, the wax is solid, but as the engine warms up, the wax melts so the pin can move.

Regarding the hole in the vacuum hose, they're not very thick and they're subject to vibration and bending when you ride, so they wear through at the point where there's most stress.

It's not really a big deal, mine were like that for ages and, apart from a slightly higher idle, it didn't make much difference.

 

[fazil]

For me, the difference is very noticable.
Now it works like a clock.
I think, engine had to work lean on idle and lower rpm because of the hole.
That makes the bike hot, furious and unstable.
And it was very difficult to find the right adjustment while making synchronisation.
I had to make the adjustments according to cylinder 2 (the one that has the hole)

I put some wd40 and silicone grease inside that pin hole, before putting back.
I hope it doesn't matter.