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08' FZ6 S2 The hardest riding rear monoshock ever..

grcamna7

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The shock was on 3 when I first got the bike;I put it down to 1 and it's still very hard. :(
Seems like too much compression damping?

I was speaking with a Yamaha guy from Partzilla the other day and he recommended an 05' R6 rear shock,the one with the red spring;he described how it has adjustable damping.

I want a rear shock that's fully adjustable and comfortable,and handles great.
 
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I swapped the OEM rear shock on my FZ6-S for a YSS one which is much nicer 👍
Graham,did you get the exact model YSS shock which they recommend for your FZ6;does it have the features that allow you to fine-tune the ride ?
I wonder if they have a YSS dealer who I can speak English(I imagine they are in Thailand)with here in the USA ?
I have heard good things about YSS.
 
Did they quote you a price?
Bryan said the standard is just a bit over $1000,but I want to have hydraulic preload.
He quoted me "between $1280-1350"

I would like to have it set-up like my 1st Gen. 1986' VFR750F(had it late 90's,sold now)w/ my Fox Twin-Clicker and the 'can' with adjustments I can get-to while seated, riding.

I also like the idea of length adjustable for an extra $75,that way if I change front forks,I can compensate if needed.
 
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This is where I got my YSS shock from:


It has preload and rebound adjustment, also you can make it +/- 5mm long.

Mine doesn't have compression adjustment, because I didn't need it.
 
This is where I got my YSS shock from:

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It has preload and rebound adjustment, also you can make it +/- 5mm long.

Mine doesn't have compression adjustment, because I didn't need it.
Graham,good looking emulsion-style shock and attractive price. 👍
How do you like the shock absorbing performance of that YSS shock,while traversing various and sundry road surfaces ?
How difficult is it to access the preload adjuster and rebound adjuster on it ?
Have you ridden on it for a few years ?
 
The best review I can give is that I don't notice it! It does its job effectively and efficiently and that's what I need. It absorbs the bumps without bouncing me out of my seat, but the rear stays planted when needed.

I haven't needed to change the preload or rebound since I got it set up for my weight a few years ago, although I would say that changing the preload would be a bit fiddly as it's on a threaded "nut" at the top of the spring, so you'd probably need to turn it a few times to get the same effect as one "step" on the OEM rear shock.
 
The best review I can give is that I don't notice it! It does its job effectively and efficiently and that's what I need. It absorbs the bumps without bouncing me out of my seat, but the rear stays planted when needed.

I haven't needed to change the preload or rebound since I got it set up for my weight a few years ago, although I would say that changing the preload would be a bit fiddly as it's on a threaded "nut" at the top of the spring, so you'd probably need to turn it a few times to get the same effect as one "step" on the OEM rear shock.
Graham, I'm glad to hear you've ridden it for a few years and it hasn't degraded in performance during that time. I'm most inclined to consider it for my rear shock absorber,at this point;sounds like a very good bargain for me. thanks,Bill 😉
 
I see the YSS #MZ456 as a very good option for me and it comes with a linear spring.
I am also getting the YSS fork springs:a 'rising-rate' spring.
I will order these from EPM Performance in Whiting,NJ;they have very good customer LIVE PHONE service. ;) 👍
 
FYI I swapped my OEM fork springs for Hyperpro progressives, although I needed to cut down the metal "spacer" in the top of the fork to get the preload right.

As I only weigh about 63kg, I found the oil they supply (15W I think) a bit to thick, giving a harsh ride, especially in cold weather, so I replaced it with 5W which works better for me.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143326499518
 
FYI I swapped my OEM fork springs for Hyperpro progressives, although I needed to cut down the metal "spacer" in the top of the fork to get the preload right.

As I only weigh about 63kg, I found the oil they supply (15W I think) a bit to thick, giving a harsh ride, especially in cold weather, so I replaced it with 5W which works better for me.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143326499518
Seems that those Hyperpro springs you purchased have a different length to them,compared to the standard springs?
 
The FZ6 has a linkless rear suspension, so a progressive rate (variable rate or rising rate..all the same thing) spring should be used on the shock.

Progressive rate springs in forks is the work of the devil 😀.
 
The FZ6 has a linkless rear suspension, so a progressive rate (variable rate or rising rate..all the same thing) spring should be used on the shock.

Progressive rate springs in forks is the work of the devil 😀.
Oh, please tell me more about why ? thanks
Gary,could it have something to do with the lack of rising rate monoshock linkage,so the spring needs to do that work ?
 
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Oh, please tell me more about why ? thanks
In a linked rear suspension, the dogbone provides increasing resistance/leverage as the swingarm moves through its arc. In this application we use a linear spring. In a linkless suspension there is a one-for-one relationship between the swingarm arc and the movement of the shock. Using a linear rate spring in this application results in a very stiff ride during small movements, and a shock that will blow through its travel during sharp edge transitions. A progressive rate spring provides a compliant ride for the small movements, yet a higher rate for the sharp edge transitions.

For the forks it’s just the opposite. A progressive spring in the fork produces significant brake dive. This, combined with a damping rod provides a fork that is too soft for the initial stroke, and too firm (usually hydrolocked) in the mid-to-late stroke. RaceTech provides a good write up on the limitations of a damping rod fork:

“Damping rods while inexpensive to manufacture have major limitations. To create compression damping, oil is shoved through a hole or holes. Shoving oil through holes creates very little resistance to flow at low vertical wheel velocities as when hitting a dip or gully or applying the front brakes. This allows the forks to shoot through the travel fairly easily, diving or bottoming in these situations. On the other hand when the wheel hits something square edge, especially at speed, it needs a lot of oil to pass through the damping holes very quickly. Unfortunately the nature of shoving oil through holes is that as the wheel velocity increases the damping force increases with the square of the velocity. In other words if you double the velocity you get four times the force. This means the hole basically "hydraulic locks" resulting in a harsh spike. Damping rods give the worst of both worlds; they are both too mushy and too harsh at the same time.
 
In a linked rear suspension, the dogbone provides increasing resistance/leverage as the swingarm moves through its arc. In this application we use a linear spring. In a linkless suspension there is a one-for-one relationship between the swingarm arc and the movement of the shock. Using a linear rate spring in this application results in a very stiff ride during small movements, and a shock that will blow through its travel during sharp edge transitions. A progressive rate spring provides a compliant ride for the small movements, yet a higher rate for the sharp edge transitions.

For the forks it’s just the opposite. A progressive spring in the fork produces significant brake dive. This, combined with a damping rod provides a fork that is too soft for the initial stroke, and too firm (usually hydrolocked) in the mid-to-late stroke. RaceTech provides a good write up on the limitations of a damping rod fork:

“Damping rods while inexpensive to manufacture have major limitations. To create compression damping, oil is shoved through a hole or holes. Shoving oil through holes creates very little resistance to flow at low vertical wheel velocities as when hitting a dip or gully or applying the front brakes. This allows the forks to shoot through the travel fairly easily, diving or bottoming in these situations. On the other hand when the wheel hits something square edge, especially at speed, it needs a lot of oil to pass through the damping holes very quickly. Unfortunately the nature of shoving oil through holes is that as the wheel velocity increases the damping force increases with the square of the velocity. In other words if you double the velocity you get four times the force. This means the hole basically "hydraulic locks" resulting in a harsh spike. Damping rods give the worst of both worlds; they are both too mushy and too harsh at the same time.
I'm starting to understand. thanks Gary
 
I'm still considering installing a pair of R6 front forks.. rather than upgraded(linear)fork springs on my original.
I have understood from the past,that Race Tech's gold valves,are cartridge fork 'emulators'.
The stock FZ6 forks are already cartridge forks,yes?
 
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