Chain and sprocket??

[LeeFZ]

Hello fellow bikers,
I'm looking to buy chain and sprocket for my 09 FZ6 and i don't know where to get it. Where is the good place to get them? what are you guys opinions and experiences? Thanks in advance, Lee

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hello fellow bikers,
I'm looking to buy chain and sprocket for my 09 FZ6 and i don't know where to get it. Where is the good place to get them? what are you guys opinions and experiences? Thanks in advance, Lee

Partzilla.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki Polaris, Suzuki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP

You'll likely need a chain breaker/riveter if purchasing an aftermarket chain (DID X chain IMHO, is recommended). Genuine Yamaha, stock steel sprockets, again IMO.

The stock chain is continuous but you have to loosen the swing arm to install it. A bit more complicated but no rivet tool is needed...

 

[yamihoe]

I would go with the DID chain, I believe I got mine from the ebay.
A lot of people swear by sidewinder and JT sprockets.

for the FZ some people go with the 520 conversion but for commuting and some serious riding stay with a 530 as its a heavier chain and will last 20k+ miles.

what Scott said is great, as well as Chaparelle (chapmoto.com?) I often go to their website just because they have great parts explosions, and their website, their web designers earned their pay for sure.

 

[Carlos840]

Have a think about sprocket size before you order!

Stock is 16/46, a lot of people go -1 in front for more torque, or -1 front/+2 rear for even more.

Some people who do a lot of highway go +1 in front to a 17t.

Personally i have -1 in front, so 15/46. It basically means that at equal speed and gear you will be around 750 rpm higher than stock.
IMO it is the best mod you can do if you want more punch and don't mind high rpm.
It becomes a lot easier to keep the bike in the power band, and theoretically you won't lose any top speed. In my experience the loss in mileage was negligible.

Only problem is that it will screw up your speedo even more than it already is, but you can get a speedo healer and have it more accurate than stock.

Brand wise i think it's all personal, i went with a Renthal front sprocket, but people use JT or Vortex, chain wise i would stay with DID.

 

[yamihoe]

Have a think about sprocket size before you order!

Stock is 16/46, a lot of people go -1 in front for more torque, or -1 front/+2 rear for even more.

Some people who do a lot of highway go +1 in front to a 17t.

Personally i have -1 in front, so 15/46. It basically means that at equal speed and gear you will be around 750 rpm higher than stock.
IMO it is the best mod you can do if you want more punch and don't mind high rpm.
It becomes a lot easier to keep the bike in the power band, and theoretically you won't lose any top speed. In my experience the loss in mileage was negligible.

Only problem is that it will screw up your speedo even more than it already is, but you can get a speedo healer and have it more accurate than stock.

Brand wise i think it's all personal, i went with a Renthal front sprocket, but people use JT or Vortex, chain wise i would stay with DID.

exatcly. it all depends on the type of riding you do. since my bike sees almost exclusively highway it is more practical to go with the +1 (17t) front sprocket. if you do mostly city or lower speed riding the -1 (15t) is a very good idea.

I know this is apples to oranges but on my GT when I went with 4.10 gears in the rear end my city mpg went wayyyyyy up because with the stopping and starting it puts less load on the engine and makes it easier on the engine to go thru the gears.

as far as top speed you are correct, I run out of power right at the VERY top of 5th, if I grab 6th it will barely maintain 153mph (with the 17t front) with the 15t front you should be able to run thru 6th or at least pull a bit more.

 

[FB400]

[
The stock chain is continuous but you have to loosen the swing arm to install it. A bit more complicated but no rivet tool is needed...

Scott - I may hit you up with questions. I have been a little freaked out about changing the chain. having a continous chain with no link solves that problem.

weird though. I keep inspecting looking for defects but the original chain and rear sprocket both still look excellent at 32k miles. (front sprocket changed out already to 15t)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott - I may hit you up with questions. I have been a little freaked out about changing the chain. having a continous chain with no link solves that problem.

weird though. I keep inspecting looking for defects but the original chain and rear sprocket both still look excellent at 32k miles. (front sprocket changed out already to 15t)

When I replaced mine, I bought a $90 tool and went with the DID X chain.

With that said, the stock, continous, Yamaha chain IS A GREAT CHAIN, your mileage/maintainance proves it..

IMHO, as posted above, especially for commuting, I'd stick with the size sized chain/sprockets(530). Also, you probably know, the stock, front Yamaha sprocket has what appears to be a plastic ring which, I think, helps with noise from under the cover..

I would steer clear of ANY aluminum sprockets as they'll wear much faster than steel..


*Another poster swapped his with a new YAMAHA continuous chain.

The Yamaha shop manual has you pulling exhaust off and all kinds of parts including shocks, suspension parts, etc.

The poster (forgot who it was), pretty much just pulled the main, front swingarm bolt (left the exhaust alone), probably pulled the rear wheel for access (and less weight to deal with besides some room to work).

He was able to finagle the swing arm back just enough (on the left), remove the old chain out and sneak the new one in. It wasn't that big an issue.:thumbup:

 

[Carlos840]

Also, you probably know, the stock, front Yamaha sprocket has what appears to be a plastic ring which, I think, helps with noise from under the cover..

Hey scott, not trying to imply you are wrong, just my experience on the subject.

I currently have a Renthal sprocket without the rubber rings, after reading on this forum i was expecting an increase in noise from the sprocket but can honestly say that in my case it made no difference...

Maybe it's because i have Leo Vince pipes and ride with earplugs, but i don't notice any more noise compared to the stock sprocket with rubber.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hey scott, not trying to imply you are wrong, just my experience on the subject.

I currently have a Renthal sprocket without the rubber rings, after reading on this forum i was expecting an increase in noise from the sprocket but can honestly say that in my case it made no difference...

Maybe it's because i have Leo Vince pipes and ride with earplugs, but i don't notice any more noise compared to the stock sprocket with rubber.

No problem, I have open Scorps and can't hear it anyway.

As noted, I did type that "I think", I don't know what else it would do... :thumbup:

 

[regder]

Stock Yamaha chain is a DID, no magic there, but it is a very good chain. When my first wore out at about 55k km, I replaced it with a DID 530VX and Sunstar sprockets. That chain wore out at about the same mileage, which I replaced with another 530VX and cool looking Superlite steel sprockets. Will see how well this set wears.

Personally, I do way too much highway riding to consider going down a tooth on the front sprocket, the stock gearing works just fine for me.

Sprocket Center had the best pricing when I was shopping around last time, Sprocket & Chain Kits - FZ-6 2004-2009 - Yamaha - STREET Sprockets & Kits

BTW, I bought a cheap $20 Motion Pro knockoff chain tool from my local shop, works fine

 

[LeeFZ]

Thank you guys so much. I didn't check the forum for a couple days because I worked 12 hours shift 5 days straight. I'll look for them chain and sprocket. Much appreciated. I can't wait for Spring to come so i can get back on my babe FZ. I live in Minnesota. It's not fun here in the winter time. Ride safe for those who can in the winter time :cheer:

 

[LeeFZ]

Have a think about sprocket size before you order!

Personally i have -1 in front, so 15/46. It basically means that at equal speed and gear you will be around 750 rpm higher than stock.
IMO it is the best mod you can do if you want more punch and don't mind high rpm.
It becomes a lot easier to keep the bike in the power band, and theoretically you won't lose any top speed. In my experience the loss in mileage was negligible.
.

What mpg do you get with 15/46? I don't care about the speedo healer. I'll ride my FZ as long as I could. I get around 45-50mpg with stock 16/46. I'm quite amazed with the stock chain, I have 36000 miles with original chain.