Winter Storage Help

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd follow the KISS principal and fill the tank with fuel then add stabilizer. You might want to read a comprehensive article on winter storage as there's nothing Fazer specific to worry about.

Agreed 100% however his temps drop REALLY COLD.

I would fill the tank with a heavy dose of Seafoam, (get it in the entire fuel system and cylinders(its a light oil based stabilizer).

The only thing, due to your very cold climate, is remove the battery to bring it inside...:thumbup:

 

[andyfazer600]

I think I would fog it with WD 40. I wouldn't want the hassel later of sloshing fuel in the tank come spring to rid engine oil.

If you can keep the tank AWAY from moisture (IE in the house-once emptied and safe), there should be much less moisture inside vs the garage to get any rust started.

Getting rid of the oil was my worry, would I have similar issues with WD40 as well?

Don't think I'll get away with keeping the tank indoors :spank:

Agreed 100% however his temps drop REALLY COLD.

I would fill the tank with a heavy dose of Seafoam, (get it in the entire fuel system and cylinders(its a light oil based stabilizer).

The only thing, due to your very cold climate, is remove the battery to bring it inside...:thumbup:

Tank and battery are already off with cylinders have a teaspoon of oil injected then cranked over.

My battery is on a tender but is in the shed so I may bring that indoors

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The little bit of WD40, once mixed with 5+ gallons of fuel will be fine when you re-assemble...

Just as a side note, my parents hired a lawn company to do their yard. They had a Honda and a Toro mower both collecting dust.

After cleaning both carbs, getting them running, etc, I have them posted on Craigslist. While waiting for a sale, I drained the tanks, carbs (sprayed WD40 into the float bowls).

I have a front room inside the house(that I've never used). Instead of me tripping on these mowers in my man cave, their currently stored inside that room... No fumes what so ever...

I also have an FZ6 tank F/S (used) which is currently in the original replacement box in the computer room, again, no issues with fumes (emptied of course-taped off all openings):
http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/47070-2007-fz6-fuel-tank-f-s.html

 

[andyfazer600]

The little bit of WD40, once mixed with 5+ gallons of fuel will be fine when you re-assemble...

Just as a side note, my parents hired a lawn company to do their yard. They had a Honda and a Toro mower both collecting dust.

After cleaning both carbs, getting them running, etc, I have them posted on Craigslist. While waiting for a sale, I drained the tanks, carbs (sprayed WD40 into the float bowls).

I have a front room inside the house(that I've never used). Instead of me tripping on these mowers in my man cave, their currently stored inside that room... No fumes what so ever...

I also have an FZ6 tank F/S (used) which is currently in the original replacement box in the computer room, again, no issues with fumes (emptied of course-taped off all openings):
http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/47070-2007-fz6-fuel-tank-f-s.html

I'll give it a WD40 spraying next weekend. Took the pump out, fully drained it out and cleaned inside. Looks to be in good condition inside.

Also lubed the clutch and throttle cables using a little trick I was told - remove the bar end of the cable and mould a trumpet from Blutak around it, put some oil in the trumpet and work it into the cable by repeatedly pulling it. What I couldn't remember is if I should keep working oil down the cable until it appears at the other end. On top of that the throttle didn't snap shut so I suspect the closing cable is snagging.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'll give it a WD40 spraying next weekend. Took the pump out, fully drained it out and cleaned inside. Looks to be in good condition inside.

Also lubed the clutch and throttle cables using a little trick I was told - remove the bar end of the cable and mould a trumpet from Blutak around it, put some oil in the trumpet and work it into the cable by repeatedly pulling it. What I couldn't remember is if I should keep working oil down the cable until it appears at the other end. On top of that the throttle didn't snap shut so I suspect the closing cable is snagging.

Re the clutch cable. I've found that in the area just above the engine,(where the cable crosses over to the lower lever), oil tends to collect and leak down the engine at that low spot. I just fold up a paper towel and sneak it in underneath the low part of the cable to catch any extra oil (I actually leave it in there). If not, you'll likley find a small oil puddle under the bike (don't ask) and start hunting down an oil leak that doesn't exist...

Using your lubrication method (which is fine but takes awhile), I would try and get it to where it does come out the other end, hopefully washing out any old gunk as well.. :thumbup:

 

[andyfazer600]

Another addition whilst the bikes in bits

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Another addition whilst the bikes in bits

Looks good! Did you use PVC glue?

I glued mine vs bolt and nut it as in the instructions..



(Some tips installing a FE with glue only: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/47179-fenda-extenda.html )

 

[andyfazer600]

Looks good! Did you use PVC glue?

I glued mine vs bolt and nut it as in the instructions..



(Some tips installing a FE with glue only: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/47179-fenda-extenda.html )

I used Alraldite heavy duty stuff, it seems fairly solid (not the tidiest of jobs in a couple of tiny areas but that's me being a perfectionist again lol). Obviously the real test will come next year when the bikes back on the road. Your guide came in very handy :thumbup:

 

[LERecords]

i set it up on the kick stand with a full tank.. put about 1 1/2 x's the recommended fuel sabalizer.. let it run for like 5 mins to get some of it in the lines and injectors.. then lift the front tire up enough so both tires are in the air, and use 2 peices of 2x4 wedged under the forks to keep it up.. put it on a trickle charger set on a timer for 3-4 hours a day.. I have never had a problem with the bike.. 2005 w 26k miles and no issues!! they are really simple to take care of!!

 

[andyfazer600]

Got a new seal fitted to the fuel pump and refitted it back in the tank today. Took a quick picture of what looks like the worst bit inside for your consideration lol Also the bike in its current guise, chain cleaning in progress.

I got an early Christmas present in the shape of a set of front and rear paddock stands, no problem fitting the rear but not sure if the front stand is located correctly on the forks. Hopefully the forum wise men will give some assurance

 

[ped]

batteries are more stable in the cold, best thing to do is leave it in the bike.

 

[andyfazer600]

batteries are more stable in the cold, best thing to do is leave it in the bike.

With the temperatures I'm likely to see around here come January or February I reckon it would maybe freeze and burst

 

[Smittyboy]

I've had mine 7 years, shed stored in WISCONSIN. Not uncommon for -10 f or worse multiple times a year. If it's on a tender, and not getting snowed on, you should be fine leaving the battery in. Hope I helped...

edit: forgot to mention... still on original battery.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your paddock stands are fine as welll as the install..

IMHO, I would put a small sizzor jack with a small piece of plywood or 2x4 under the header instead of the ft lift. Its a bit more stable should someone bump into the bike by accident... Either way is fine...

Re your battery and cold temperatures, exactly how cold (in F if you could) can it get down to where's its stored???


From Yuasa's site, some interseting reading:

Battery storage tips:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/storage.php?action=article1

FAQ's
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php



Also, from their site:

Freezing: It shouldn’t bother you – unless a battery is
inadequately charged. Looking one more time at the
discharge process, remember that electrolyte acid becomes
water as discharge occurs. Now, it takes Arctic temperatures
to freeze acid. But water... as we all know, freezing starts
at 32°F. A sign of this is mossing – little red lines on the
plates. Freezing can also crack the case and buckle the
plates, which means the battery is permanently damaged.
A fully-charged battery can be stored at subfreezing
temperatures with no damage. As the
chart at right shows, it takes -75°F to freeze electrolyte in
a charged battery. But at just a couple degrees below
freezing – at +27°F – a discharged battery’s electrolyte
turns to ice. That’s a difference of more than 100°F
between the low temperatures a charged and discharged
battery can stand.
Electrolyte Freezing Points
Specific Gravity
of Electrolyte Freezing Point
1.265 -75°F
1.225 -35°F
1.200 -17°F
1.150 + 5°F
1.100 +18°F
1.050 +27°F
23
At temperatures such as these, incidentally, the self discharge
rate of a battery is so low that a recharge
usually isn’t needed for months. But to stay on the safe
side, test.
4
SECTION
Maintenance
and Storage

 

[andyfazer600]

Your paddock stands are fine as welll as the install..

IMHO, I would put a small sizzor jack with a small piece of plywood or 2x4 under the header instead of the ft lift. Its a bit more stable should someone bump into the bike by accident... Either way is fine...

Re your battery and cold temperatures, exactly how cold (in F if you could) can it get down to where's its stored???


From Yuasa's site, some interseting reading:

Battery storage tips:
Yuasa Batteries - Storage & Spring Startup

FAQ's
Yuasa Batteries - FAQ's



Also, from their site:

Freezing: It shouldn’t bother you – unless a battery is
inadequately charged. Looking one more time at the
discharge process, remember that electrolyte acid becomes
water as discharge occurs. Now, it takes Arctic temperatures
to freeze acid. But water... as we all know, freezing starts
at 32°F. A sign of this is mossing – little red lines on the
plates. Freezing can also crack the case and buckle the
plates, which means the battery is permanently damaged.
A fully-charged battery can be stored at subfreezing
temperatures with no damage. As the
chart at right shows, it takes -75°F to freeze electrolyte in
a charged battery. But at just a couple degrees below
freezing – at +27°F – a discharged battery’s electrolyte
turns to ice. That’s a difference of more than 100°F
between the low temperatures a charged and discharged
battery can stand.
Electrolyte Freezing Points
Specific Gravity
of Electrolyte Freezing Point
1.265 -75°F
1.225 -35°F
1.200 -17°F
1.150 + 5°F
1.100 +18°F
1.050 +27°F
23
At temperatures such as these, incidentally, the self discharge
rate of a battery is so low that a recharge
usually isn’t needed for months. But to stay on the safe
side, test.
4
SECTION
Maintenance
and Storage

Thanks for the reassurance on the paddock stands and battery advice. Top notch as ever :thumbup:

RE the battery, I'm likely to see around 14 degrees F or -10 degrees C but my biggest reason for not removing it from the bike is I don't have any electrical points in my garage.

 

[ped]

ahh but did you notice what it said in the last part? the colder you keep the less it self-discharges...... Maintenance free!

Your factory AGM battery is meant to be very stable for long periods of time anyway. Since they're also starved of electrolyte by design they gas easier and once they do they go bad because you cannot refill them. Probably the number one cause of premature (<6-8 years) failure for modern bike batteries.