Oil Level Check Question

[jsalman93]

Hey, I'm wondering how exactly I check my oil level for my fz6, do i do it with the dipstick either screwed it, or just set on where it screws it. Also is it better to check it cold, or after a minute or two after it goes throughout the engine?

 

[Gelvatron]

You can run the engine give it 5-10 min to settle and it screwed in all the way

 

[oaks]

From the Owner's Manual:

 

[Gelvatron]

My bad must of read it wrong lol

 

[jsalman93]

Alright thanks, really helpful info. I guess ive been doing it wrong with the side stand on and checking it cold. What's ur opinion on oil changes. I use fully synthetic and don't really drive aggressively

 

[pookamatic]

Consensus is: Full synthetic is better than semi synthetic which is better than conventional. Brand name doesn't really matter just make sure it does not claim to improve mileage (the additives in these could damage the wet clutch), and that it carries the JASO-MA requirements (like the API label... will be on the bottle somewhere). There are a wide variety of weights you can use... just make sure the one you choose is listed in your manual, and works for the climate you ride in.

Bottom line: don't lose any sleep over oil. If you want to kill a LOT of time, there's plenty of conjecture on oil here!

 

[greg]

also if you check it on the side stand it will under-read by a dangerous amount.

i usually check with the bike on front and rear paddock stands so that it's level

 

[mave2911]

Centre stand, checked first thing in the morning (no running it first - I ride home and park it on the centre stand)

Unscrew it, wipe it, and just sit it back in the hole, without rescrewing. Pull it out and check it. (if you filled it to read 'full' on the side stand, it'll be too high to read correctly on the centre stand, so empty a little out.)

Full synthetic motorcycle oil (motorcycle engine oil is also the gearbox oil - so has a much harder life, and needs to be specifically formulated)

Also, check for NO friction modifiers, telflon and the like, as they cause the wet clutch to slip.

Change the oil and oil filter every 6000mi (10000kms) and you'll be golden.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have a center stand, Yamaha likes it checked while on the centerstand.

If no centerstand, hold the bike straight up and down (helps with a friend balancing the bike).

+1 on MC specific oil due to the transmission, NO ENERGY CONSERVING OILs

 

[vinmansbrew]

I find rotella t6 5-40 oil to work quite well. I have not put it in my fz but will be. I have used it in other bikes and it has worked very well.
I know some say to use motorcycle specific oil but since this stuff is used in fleet diesels which have engines that cost easily 4 times what a new motorcycle does and they want to protect them well, I feel it will perform perfectly fine.

 

[jsalman93]

Yeah i checked it today and everything is good. I know, my main concerns were underfilling it by it not being on the correct stand or by not letting it run on for a minute. The manual says to run it for a bit, but im guessing not so the engine is hot, just so the oil will circulate a bit

Full synthetic all the way, and +1 on the API label. did a bit of reading on that and am gonna switch over to that. A little bit of knowledge goes a long way

 

[mave2911]

If you run the bike before checking the oil, the bike MUST be at running temperature to ensure the oil drips down to be correctly checked.

Running it for a minute will NOT achieve this. (if you MUST run it before checking it, let it warm up until the thermofan kicks in, turn the bike off and wait a minute for the oil to settle)

That's why I recommended riding it and then parking it on the centre stand.

The oil will then be at the correct level - and it doesn't matter if you check it stone cold - as long as it was parked when hot. (actually, stone cold will be easier to see on the dipstick as the oil is thicker.)

Cheers,
Rick

 

[jsalman93]

Good to know. When do you usually change your oil, the manual and most people do around 3-4k miles, but im sure with fully synthetic I would probably stretch 7000 out of it. I'm just not sure how the engine would deal with it, from what it seems like these engines are pretty tough

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mobile 1, MC specific 4T, FULL SYNTHETIC, calls for 5,000 mile changes.

IMHO, I wouldn't exceed that mileage.. I also would NOT let the bike sit and idle until the fan comes on to check the oil. There's no reason for it, the manual doesn't call for it , the engine being that hot, its just extra wear and tear on the engine for no reason.

To each his own...

 

[mave2911]

I change my oil every 5000kms (3000mi) and use Motul 7100 10W40 full synthetic.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you run the bike before checking the oil, the bike MUST be at running temperature to ensure the oil drips down to be correctly checked.

Running it for a minute will NOT achieve this. (if you MUST run it before checking it, let it warm up until the thermofan kicks in, turn the bike off and wait a minute for the oil to settle)

That's why I recommended riding it and then parking it on the centre stand.

The oil will then be at the correct level - and it doesn't matter if you check it stone cold - as long as it was parked when hot. (actually, stone cold will be easier to see on the dipstick as the oil is thicker.)

Cheers,
Rick

I highlighted in bold, parts of your post that completly contradict each other and doesn't make sense what so ever...

Per my 2007 owners manual, page 6-11, Paraphrasing, with the bike straight up, Yamaha calls for warming the engine for several minutes, wait a few minutes for the oil to settle and then check it

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good to know. When do you usually change your oil, the manual and most people do around 3-4k miles, but im sure with fully synthetic I would probably stretch 7000 out of it. I'm just not sure how the engine would deal with it, from what it seems like these engines are pretty tough

IMHO, the engine oil is literally the lifeblood of your engine/bike. To save a couple of bucks at the expense of extra wear and tear on your engine is to me, not worth it.. Its a whole lot cheaper to change your oil than to replace an internal bearing or having moisture/contaminents floating around the crankcase.

And yes, the engine is damn near bullet proof however regular, preventive maintainance is a must, especially with an engine that can turn 14,000 RPM's.

 

[jsalman93]

Good point on that.

 

[jsalman93]

The manual calls for either Yamahalube 4 20w-40 or sae 20w-40 oil for where i live. I have yet to find that kind of oil, sometimes ill find 20w-50 or somewhere close.

What kind of oil would work well, looking at API rated full synthetic

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The manual calls for either Yamahalube 4 20w-40 or sae 20w-40 oil for where i live. I have yet to find that kind of oil, sometimes ill find 20w-50 or somewhere close.

What kind of oil would work well, looking at API rated full synthetic

There are many oil threads and more opinions as well.. IMHO, most ANY MC specific, synthetic oil, (within your weight range) would be fine.

Some use deisel oils however I'm not familiar with them and cannot comment on them.

Motul semi or full synthetic is very popular as is Mobil 1. Do a search, look up on their sites, call the producer and ask questions, then make a decision...