engine rpm

[kennedyted]

ok so its not garage help, but cant decide where to post, 07 fz6 i love the sound of my m4 cf exhaust, which means i tend to ride at higher rpms instead of shifting normally, my question is, being such a high revving bike wheres the danger limit rpm wise at a steady pace? im not talking excessive 10k+ or anything, its my first bike maybe im just being worrisome

 

[outasight20]

the engineers put the redline where it is for a reason . you can safely drive around near redline all day without damaging the engine. you are just being worrisome. ride how you like and enjoy!

 

[SovietRobot]

Well, to an extent. The engine WILL wear out faster at 10k than 6k. How much though is a question that can't easily be answered.

Given proper preventative maintenance, riding around at 7,000RPM won't hurt this motor.
I've ridden for 200 miles straight at 9,000RPM before.

If you run it near redline ALL THE TIME, **** will break. Valves and crank bearings and piston rings and seals will all wear out much more quickly.
Why do you think they tear down, inspect, and rebuild race motors after every race?

 

[yamihoe]

yea dude, the revv limiter is there for a reason.
especially since the fz has the same valvetrain (just different cam profile) as the r6 and the r6 redlines at like 16k or some ridiculous number.
I know some guys that wring the necks out of their fz's and they keep commin for more.

:thumbup::thumbup::welcome:

 

[outasight20]

If you run it near redline ALL THE TIME, **** will break.

I beg to differ. It's essentially an R6 motor. R6's are street legal race bikes. That means they are designed to run all day long at high rpm's without any trouble.

Things will probably wear out faster near redline, but not enough to make any appreciable difference in the life of your engine if you take care of it properly. Think about what percent of the time you are actually spinning near redline compared to the time you are riding around at a sane and legal pace. And your statement, that **** will break, is based on what? Show me proof that an engine that is run near red line often and for long periods of time (that is maintained properly) will break. All I know is, I ride my bike hard on a daily basis, keep up with routine maintenance, and it keeps coming back for more.

 

[SovietRobot]

I beg to differ. It's essentially an R6 motor. R6's are street legal race bikes. That means they are designed to run all day long at high rpm's without any trouble.

Things will probably wear out faster near redline, but not enough to make any appreciable difference in the life of your engine if you take care of it properly. Think about what percent of the time you are actually spinning near redline compared to the time you are riding around at a sane and legal pace. And your statement, that **** will break, is based on what? Show me proof that an engine that is run near red line often and for long periods of time (that is maintained properly) will break. All I know is, I ride my bike hard on a daily basis, keep up with routine maintenance, and it keeps coming back for more.

It's very anecdotal, because every engine despite having the same parts and tolerances, is unique, and one engine can go 100,000 miles whereas one can have a catastrophic failure at 10,000 miles.

Like you said, one that is maintained and not beat on too bad, can run like hell for a long time.
My engine has been through a lot, I ride the piss out of it, but the tolerances are still good. They are solid motors.

Then again, how many videos on youtube are there of people with brand new street bikes who dropped a valve or have rod knock with barely any miles on it? My point is simply that you can't assume you can run an engine at near redline forever and not suffer any consequences.

 

[red06]

ok so its not garage help, but cant decide where to post, 07 fz6 i love the sound of my m4 cf exhaust, which means i tend to ride at higher rpms instead of shifting normally, my question is, being such a high revving bike wheres the danger limit rpm wise at a steady pace? im not talking excessive 10k+ or anything, its my first bike maybe im just being worrisome

nothing to worry about , the engine is very solid , i am not sure how well the gears and clutch stand up to abuse in the long run , anyone know ?
edit : i highly recommend full synthetic oil and KN oil filter if you ride hard, also you change it every 6000 miles instead of 3000 with regular oil

 

[gognome]

I find 8000 to 10000 a good range when ya want good response and having a bit of fun. Below 6000 IS ok around town.A Pretty solid engine

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suspect with the constant higher RPM's, you'll be adjusting your valves more often (and yes, its general maintainance).

And I have to agree, I'd be putting a full synthetic oil in if your going to run that hard.

Motul makes a full RACING synthetic oil (next step above the 7100)which I spoke to them about. It does provide more protection however, they DID NOT RECOMMEND it for street duty as the race bikes/and that oil used get the oil changed much more frequently and isn't designed to last 3,000 miles...

 

[kennedyted]

anybody know where i can pick up a maintenance manual, i know diddly about bikes i managed to chain my oil oil my kn filter get the rear tire off, but i know **** about general maintenance and at what intervals, **** i had bike 2 years before i knew u had to oil the chain

 

[yamihoe]

yamaha's website has the manual on pdf.
its somewhere around here too...just do a search for it!! :thumbup:

 

[Cameronhall]

correct me if im wrong but i have it stuck in my head that somewere in the manuel it says not to stay over 7000 rpms for and "extended period" of time.
But you'd be between 90 and 100 +- so that'd only be in short bursts powering through curves or gaining speed. I generaly stay between 70-75 on the highway which is 6000 rpms +-.

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

I think the manual is very conservative, especially in regard to shift points. If you were to stay below 7000 rpm you would be below the meat of the powerband! Not good for twisties.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cameronhall]

exaclty!!! its not a 18,000 dollar bike, drive it like you stole it and be safe.

 

[outasight20]

exaclty!!! its not a 18,000 dollar bike, drive it like you stole it and be safe.

Exactly! The worst thing that can happen is you blow your engine. You can get a used R6 motor on ebay for under a grand.

 

[Andz]

Exactly! The worst thing that can happen is you blow your engine.

Just what you need when cranked over in a corner. Pretty dumb statement IMHO.

 

[ChevyFazer]

correct me if im wrong but i have it stuck in my head that somewere in the manuel it says not to stay over 7000 rpms for and "extended period" of time.
But you'd be between 90 and 100 +- so that'd only be in short bursts powering through curves or gaining speed. I generaly stay between 70-75 on the highway which is 6000 rpms +-.

im pretty sure if it says that its most likely talking about the break in period

 

[Andz]

from the manual:

Engine break-in
There is never a more important period in the life of your engine than the period between 0 and 1600 km (1000 mi). For this reason, you should read the following material carefully.

Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive load on it for the first
1600 km (1000 mi). The various parts in the engine wear and polish hemselves
to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged full-throttle
operation or any condition that might result in engine overheating must be
avoided.

0–1000 km (0–600 mi)
Avoid prolonged operation above 7000 r/min.

1000–1600 km (600–1000 mi)
Avoid prolonged operation above 9000 r/min.

 

[FinalImpact]

Some things to consider:
The valve springs are likely the weakest link in this engine and as such one could fail at any time. Without a doubt they are more likely to fail at high RPM than mid-range but in rare occasions they do break under low RPM use. Oil keeps them coil so make damn certain you have a good filter and the oil is full because at high RPMs more oil is kept in the top end so less is near the pickup to be pushed back to the top. Don't run it LOW on OIL! BAD BAD BAD!


For the exception of utility engines on generators, pumps, and welders, most engines live a longer life if the RPM is varied often as it changes the OIL SLING pattern to ensure all reciprocating parts get lubed and cooled. Its why you don't hold a new engine at a steady RPM for extended periods of time.

Per the manual, avoid excessive loads - that includes lugging it about, putting in higher gears at lower speeds. Here the cooling is compromised, the oiling is compromised, and the piston cylinder loads are excessive. Its better to lightly rev it with less load than to lug it!

I'm all for keeping the R's UP on everything I own. Its like people - if you sit on your @ss 24/7 you drop dead sooner than jogging about daily using the full powerband. . . 7 to 11K is fine by me. . .

 

[SweaterDude]

Since nobody has said this yet, here goes. I have been told numerous times that you are running an engine efficiently when it is anywhere below 1/2 the RPMs that redline is located, 7k for the FZ6. this means that you are in the "economical" area. Anywhere <3/4 redline, or <10,500 RPM is not "abusive". so i'd say if you're under 10k you should be fine.