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Radar Detector Hardwire

Full Throttle

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Hey guys,

Searched but didn't find anything on the forum so here is the question; which cable can I wire my V1 radar detector to so that it will only be on when the head light or ignition are on? I currently have it hooked up to a battery tender cigarette adapter but would like to clean it up a little. I figure putting in a semi-permanent cord would be best. I already have the cable. I know I can just lift up the tank and hook it right up to the battery and it would be on all the time but I don't want to do that since I would risk dumping gas through the overflow outlet (however would be the best semi-permanent connection that I could think of).

Should I hook up using the hard wire like above and how, or should I just go the easy way and buy a Y adapter battery tender cable and get another cigarette adapter so I can plug in my GPS. Or should I buy a Y cable cigarette adapter? I thought of going with the cigarette spliter since its the cheapest first but the green LED made me nervous that over time it would kill my battery so I would have to disconnect the cable every time I let the bike sit.
 
I'd browse this forum, or just join it and ask! Radardetector.net:

Motorcycle Protection

I'm a member of that forum, and have a V1 myself, but it's in the car, not the bike. So I don't have any personal experience there.

Amazing detector though! No tickets in the 3+ years I've had it (and I'm NOT a slow driver :spank:)
 
Thanks! I'm really thinking either the hard wire or the SAE Splitter for the trickle charger would be best.

I just worried when I lift the tank the fuel will escape from the overflow hole. Do you guys think that would be a problem?
 
your radar detector is a pretty low current device so you can easily use your running light circuit to run the detector and the running lights shut off with key off. Your running light circuit would be the wire that feeds the running light in your front directionals (not the directional signal wire) or the tail lamp. Blue with a red tracer....and of course ground.
 
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your radar detector is a pretty low current device so you can easily use your running light circuit to run the detector and the running lights shut off with key off. Your running light circuit would be the wire that feeds the running light in your front directionals (not the directional signal wire) or the tail lamp. Blue with a red tracer....and of course ground.

Thats pretty much exactly what I was gonna suggest....:) but if your still not sure wich wires to use break out ur meter and do some hunting to find hot wire that is easy to get too

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
What do you guys think about going right to the battery? If I life up the tank, do I have to worry about fuel spilling out?


Just make sure you have less than half a tank of fuel when you lift it up.

also i'd always put a inline fuse in rather going direct to battery just for backup if there ever was a spike
 
I personally dont like going to the battery for anything, theres nothing wrong with it but I would go for another route

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
Just make sure you have less than half a tank of fuel when you lift it up.

also i'd always put a inline fuse in rather going direct to battery just for backup if there ever was a spike

The harness has a tube fuse built into it.


I just don't want anything too permanent like cutting into a head light cable because I don't think I'll keep this bike for the rest of my life.
 
What you need is a Posi-Tap. They are easy to install, weather prrof and easy to remove.

On my Ford Expedition I ran a switched 12v supply and an earth cable under the dash and then used posi-taps to connect up my radar detector and iPod RF modulator.

I used them on the bike to connect up the turn signals on my Motodynamics tail light and the remote door opener (flash2pass). When I get round to it I intend adding pod light/turnsignals up front and again I'll be using posi-taps.
 
What you need is a Posi-Tap. They are easy to install, weather prrof and easy to remove.

On my Ford Expedition I ran a switched 12v supply and an earth cable under the dash and then used posi-taps to connect up my radar detector and iPod RF modulator.

I used them on the bike to connect up the turn signals on my Motodynamics tail light and the remote door opener (flash2pass). When I get round to it I intend adding pod light/turnsignals up front and again I'll be using posi-taps.

But won't that tab be permanent? I think it has one similar built in.
 
I'm a member of that forum, and have a V1 myself, but it's in the car, not the bike. So I don't have any personal experience there.

Amazing detector though! No tickets in the 3+ years I've had it (and I'm NOT a slow driver :spank:)

I too am a V1 fan. I bought one in 2000 and I haven't had a radar ticket since then. The ability to know where the radar unit is, in relation to your vehicle is priceless! I'd never buy another detector without directional arrows.

Of course, here in Pennsylvania, only state police can operate radar, and they must remain stationary, and that makes them easier to spot. (All local police use vascar and other similar timing methods.) But, when I cross over to NJ, the V1 is in its element, picking up all of the NJ officers and their rolling radar.
 
You want to make sure that thing is level man!

If not, it may not work to it's optimum sensitivity.

It might be level, but it doesn't look like it :thumbup:
 
No, its not level. Its sitting inside the windscreen. Less likely to fall that way. I thought about making it level but the only positive that I see from that will be that I can pick up laser but I don't think it would matter. If it was in a car, I may be able to pick up the signal through the window of the car in front of me but on a bike it wouldn't matter because of how low I am.

I also need to buy a screamer so I can hear it a little better at high speed.
 
You want to make sure that thing is level man!

If not, it may not work to it's optimum sensitivity.

It might be level, but it doesn't look like it :thumbup:

+1 it's important that most radar detectors are either mounted horizontally or vertically, as they use a gain horn which is made to a specific size (optimal for required frequency) to recieve either horizontally or vertically polarised signals.

Try to mount your GPS horizontally for a better reception :thumbup:

Is that a massive GPS I see there?

Size does matter :tard: when it comes to GPS screens anyway ;)

I used to use a small palmtop as a GPS, but I had to use an earpiece whilst riding as I could see little, nowadays I can navigate using my zumo 550, with or without sound :thumbup:
 
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