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staying on throttle when shifting?

red06

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another unsolved mistery lol:
the manual states (06 fazer)to hold throttle open slightly when shifting gears , now how good is this for the engine/clutch/transmission to have the throttle open while releasing the clutch after a shift?
:confused:
 
another unsolved mistery lol:
the manual states (06 fazer)to hold throttle open slightly when shifting gears , now how good is this for the engine/clutch/transmission to have the throttle open while releasing the clutch after a shift?
:confused:

Ummmm.... very? Unless you want your bike to dive into a engine brake, that is exactly what you want to do. You have to match the engine rpm to your speed as you are releasing the clutch after you shift. Any matching rpm to your speed while moving requires that you have the throttle open slightly.
 
What they're talking about is 'rev matching' as mentioned. That way you're not jerking the bike when you let the clutch out. Same in down shifting. you blip the throttle to get the engine RPM closer to where it would be if the clutch is engaged in the lower gear. This also aids in keeping the rear wheel from skidding when down shifting hard as when using the engine to "Compression Brake" in addition to your brakes during a hard stop. If you haven't grown up doing it it might be a little bit of a mystery but just ride with peeps that have been riding a while and it will become natural to you. Also they don't mean Wide Open Throttle as you shift.
 
Heck, skip the clutch all together on an up shift. Preload the shift lever with your toe, very briefly cut the throttle (a tiny bit) and at the same time knock it up a gear. :thumbup:
 
Heck, skip the clutch all together on an up shift. Preload the shift lever with your toe, very briefly cut the throttle (a tiny bit) and at the same time knock it up a gear. :thumbup:

Damn skippy! Glad someone mentioned this. :thumbup:

+1 to that , just keep snickin' em mate :thumbup: Much , much smoother :D
 
Damn skippy! Glad someone mentioned this. :thumbup:

Don't you guys think OP needs to master the shifting with the clutch before moving to clutchless shifts? Not done right, that "will" cause issues with your bike.
 
this is something that would have likely come to you in time anyway as
you work on smoothing out your riding, especially handy on a wet road
 
Don't you guys think OP needs to master the shifting with the clutch before moving to clutchless shifts? Not done right, that "will" cause issues with your bike.

Good point Goker.

Well, as we teach all our Novice students, shifting is a 3 step process:

1. Clutch in - roll off throttle (at same time) - this means you can still be on the throttle some (at higher speeds), you are just reducing the RPM.
2. Shift
3. Clutch out (smoothly) - roll on throttle (at same time)
 
just work with the first to second shift....its trickier than heck to get smooth....second to sixth(if you ever get to sixth :-D is cake...

and +1 on the preloading shifter while shifting and going clutchless....
 
Heck, skip the clutch all together on an up shift. Preload the shift lever with your toe, very briefly cut the throttle (a tiny bit) and at the same time knock it up a gear. :thumbup:

I do a lot of that by the end of the day out rompin in the playground.:rockon:
 
I often do clutchless up and downshifting. I agree it isn't for the newb, though.

On a side note, the Yamaha Raider has a built in quickshift feature.

1. Release the clutch and get rolling.

2. Wide open throttle.

3. Apply pressure on the shifter like you are attempting to shift.

4. Rev Limiter cuts ignition and immediately the bike shifts to second.

5. Repeat 3 more times. :BLAA:



Actually is is pretty funny how quickly the bike shifts with the first bounce of the limiter.

DISCLAIMER: the Yamaha FZ6 will bounce 5 times before shifting and is not fast shifting in this manner like the 1900cc Yamaha Raider.

Do not try this at home. Professional rider on closed course.
 
great stuff guys , i get the rev match idea here , but just how much of throttle do you give ? i have never rev matched i always rev it and make the shift fast so the rpm's dont drop , i know you can abuse alot of things and they wont break like clutchless shifts but it is not good for it ,
also i always thought that this statement is true correct me if im wrong : when you shift gears you want to unload the engine completely then shift , wouldn't rev matching interfere with the unload process and cause unnecessary load on the engine when you should in fact not touch any throttle until the shift is over completely?
i am very new to the sportbike scene and all this modern stuff i am not used to but i am learning fast and have alot to learn from some of my friends that have been riding for 30 years
 
you give it enough throttle to make the shift smooth, if you roll off too much, when you release the clutch and roll back on, you will buck bakwards as the weight shift now moves to the back as the drivetrain is re engaged

so, roll off the throttle a tad, so as when you shift and release the clutch, and roll back on the throttle, the bike does not transfer weight too violently forwards nor backwards

i think you are over-analzying it red06.. this is the new millenium, the bikes have become a little smarter, just get on, buck up and ride!
 
As long as with FZ6 gear shifting experiences...

I found that FZ6 clutch friction zone is very short.
And the gear shifting is very forgivable when the bike is in good speed.
However, at the lower speed with 1st or 2nd gears, shifting need some effort
when bike is not in good tune, out of chain adj., or some out of clutch/throttle cable adj.

I'm not sure what I'm doing is good or not for the gear shiftiting.
Here is what I'm doing and it alwalys works for me. ( hard to describe it ^^; )

* First, give throttle little bit more than current speed/rpm. (rolling up little bit)
* And, keep and stay the throttle position at while opening clutch very small distance; usually just before the regular friction zone starting point.
* My case, just slightly grabbing clutch with one/two fingers; kind of just a touch (similar with clutchless shifting method).
* But, it's not the clutchless, clutch is needed in slight movement for my bike setup.
* I don't close throttle at all during the shifting duration most of time except at the slower speed; my bike is very sensitive with throttle >> because of Fuel Injection ???
* And the last, when the clutch is touched slightly, shift the gear up lightly.
* Then, adjust throttle position as needed; speed up or stay...

I don't think that this kind of method would not work for the bikes with longer friction zone.
However, FZ6 works and FZ6 taught me this...:Flash:

Just thought about it, as today I found that my bike needs some chain adjustment.... some difficulties to shifting on lower gears ^^;
 
Please, somebody enlighten me here while the topic is up - what exactly would a practical use of a clutchless downshift be. I've only experienced it a handful of times and can't really imagine a use for it on the street.

The clutch-less up shift is a different story, but I'm curious about the downshift. Ever time I've done it, my RPM's jump and the back end gets squirrely - so in what situation would you actually want to use this technique.
 
Quick question here from a rookiea . If you do the clutchless shifting (what is the reason of having a clutch at all :spank:. Second question would that affect the bike at all over the long run? thanks riders in advance:thumbup:
 
it is a control thing. Having a clutch makes riding easier once mastered. Just take a look at a GP race when they show the clutch side camera, the riders are constantly modulating it.
 
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