I believe that HIDs only draw 35W even if BOTH lights are on (versus 110W for both Halogens), so that shouldn't have caused the problem. What you have there should easily be handled by your bike.
I understood each HID to draw 35 watts once it's warmed up.... the draw being somewhat higher until that point. No change in wattage for high or low beam, when all you do is move a shutter to change the light pattern.
A 55/60 W incandescant is two individual filaments in a common envelope. If it is wired accoding to the design's intent, there will only be one element lit at a time.... some of the ways folk wire up that low beam element, it does not shut off witn the high comes on.
Rather than beat this up, OEM on Low draws ~55 watts. ON Hgh (OEM) the second bulb is lit, for ~60 additional watts. Now we've hit the max OEM condition. ~115 watts for the lighting.
Add in the second lo element from the H4, and you now have ~110 watts constant draw whenever the lights are on. This would be similar to the load an HID setup with two bulbs would produce, except they would require less total watts.... 35 X 2 = 70, rather than ~110.
OEM high @ 115 (two halogen), the HID set up will still pull 70.
Does anyone know what the draw for the HID in startup is? How long does that last, before they warm up to full brightness/lower current draw?
This falls right on top of the highest battery recharge requirement, when what the starter used up needs to be replaced..... it's easy to understand why low idle speed, higher intial draw, and using the starter for longer than usual is a good way to discover your batery is weak.
