wdsoccer
Junior Member
I was looking into an engine swap but don't kno hat would fit. I can get a 07 r6 motor but not sure if it will work. Also what other engine would fit?
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Engine swap...?
- Thread starter wdsoccer
- Start date
Gosling1
Take it easy Charlie. I've got an angle.
If you are looking for simple, another engine just like the one you are pulling out will be the best bet.
If you are looking for more power, you will most likely need the CPU and harnass. If it is more power you are looking for, just might be easier to get a R6. Or you could change the sprockets.
What is the motivation behind the swap?
If you are looking for more power, you will most likely need the CPU and harnass. If it is more power you are looking for, just might be easier to get a R6. Or you could change the sprockets.
What is the motivation behind the swap?
Pimpson
Junior Member
I'm almost positive that the motor mounts different. Nothing will line up, etc. Much cheaper/easier to just buy an 07 r6.
wdsoccer
Junior Member
I was looking for some power with the exception of buying a r6. Wanted to make a sleeper. Has anyone considered turbo for the fz6. I'm going to buy the two bros fuel programmer soon as well. What size of sprocket would be good to go with?
Hollywood416
Junior Member
WDsoccer I kind of had the same though as you but the R6 engine is not a direct bolt in it would be a lot of work. Turbo's have been done but not my cup of tea personally. I have been looking toward the R6 head though as that is the biggest difference between the two bikes is the top end. Still not sure if the R6 complete topend will bolt straight on but even if not a little head work and some new cams which are available and your looking better than R6 power probably 115-120 for less than $1k.
I'm planning on making some major changes to mine at time for the 26k valve adjustment just figuring while I am in there might as well go all out. probably be next winter though so still have a lot of time to plan it out and still bunch of research to do.
I'm planning on making some major changes to mine at time for the 26k valve adjustment just figuring while I am in there might as well go all out. probably be next winter though so still have a lot of time to plan it out and still bunch of research to do.
Don't forget you'll need the fuel management system too, that is the key to the R6 power.
wdsoccer
Junior Member
top end replacement and cams would prolly set me above a r6? What about getting a computer from a r6 along with those upgrades? Would that make much of a difference?
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So you picked up a used FZ6 just over one month ago and now you want to swap out the motor for something with 'more power'?
Personally I would try the following first:
- do a sprocket conversion to give you more jump off the line.
- invest in a riding/racing school
Those two things combined should allow you to dust a lot of other riders out there.
The majority of the people wanting more horsepower usually don't posess the riding skils to use what's already there to its fullest potential. Anyone can grab a handful of throttle and make a bike go fast in a straight line.
Want to race like an R6, go get an R6 and save yourself a lot of time, money and grief.
Personally I would try the following first:
- do a sprocket conversion to give you more jump off the line.
- invest in a riding/racing school
Those two things combined should allow you to dust a lot of other riders out there.
The majority of the people wanting more horsepower usually don't posess the riding skils to use what's already there to its fullest potential. Anyone can grab a handful of throttle and make a bike go fast in a straight line.
Want to race like an R6, go get an R6 and save yourself a lot of time, money and grief.
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Hollywood416
Junior Member
As far as the fuel goes not sure if the R6 PCm would work...I really doubt it but it might. A Power commander and professional Dyno tune is the way I will go when the time comes.
Like boneman said though a sprocket conversion will go a long way toward giving you good low end grunt and making sure you posess the skills to make use of that power says loads. I for one have no problem out running most any other bike I've ridden with from 600SS to 1000's have all fallen to the back through the twisties and am confident in my abilities but 10 years will do that for you it's 90% rider and 10% bike. I will disagree on the R6 comment though I wouldn't trade the FZ for an R6 ever but that doesn't mean that I don't eventually want more power out of the FZ for my own "Smile Factor". I also enjoy building up my toys and it's nice to have something different than every other average Joe out there can buy with enough $$. You can still squeeze close to 130 reliable horses out of the FZ for less than an R6 would cost if you know where to spend your money.
Like boneman said though a sprocket conversion will go a long way toward giving you good low end grunt and making sure you posess the skills to make use of that power says loads. I for one have no problem out running most any other bike I've ridden with from 600SS to 1000's have all fallen to the back through the twisties and am confident in my abilities but 10 years will do that for you it's 90% rider and 10% bike. I will disagree on the R6 comment though I wouldn't trade the FZ for an R6 ever but that doesn't mean that I don't eventually want more power out of the FZ for my own "Smile Factor". I also enjoy building up my toys and it's nice to have something different than every other average Joe out there can buy with enough $$. You can still squeeze close to 130 reliable horses out of the FZ for less than an R6 would cost if you know where to spend your money.
Hollywood - I respectfully disagree. A good used '08 R6 can be had for $5,500 to $7,500. The most I've seen out of an NA FZ6 is right at about 96 to 100 hp on a inertia dyno, an eddie current dyno about 17% less. Getting another 30 out would be a stretch at best.
Specifically what would you do? Just curious.
Hollywood416
Junior Member
No probelm man everyone has their own $.02 you know. I was generally talking new for new though FZ6 at $7k R6 at 10k although I know atleast around here FZ6 can be had for less than 7 and good luck getting an R for less than 10,500. Either way though it's 3K to play with so we'll use that as a base line.
Filter, Airbox mod, Cat removal - $100 (2-3hp)
Slip on pipes- $300 (3-5hp)
Port&Polish, new valves, cams- $900-1200 going all out (10hp) this is kinda hard to judge as I have yet to see the inside of the head and really don't know how much room there is for improvement and am leaning more toward there being a lot of room to increase flow velocity of the head. Just going off general hp improvements I've seen from other bikes having the heads reworked.
Power Commander and Dyno tune- $450(5hp)
636 Big Bore kit w/ 13:1 pistons- $500 parts and about $250 for machine work. (5-10hp)
All the prices are taken into what I know I can do things for and saving everywhere possible buying pipes, PC used which saves bunches and doing everything I know I can do myself saving labor which is pretty much everything but machine work and dyno tune.
Total cost $2800
Total power gain 25-33hp based off corrected factory baseline of 98 puts you right at 130 give or take a few either way. Most of this is theoretical I very well know as there are no real baselines to go off of on the FZ6 but I feel my hp guestimates are pretty conservitive for the most part.
When I used to race and build MX quads this is basically the jobs most of them got and we usually went from stock around low-mid 30's hp to mid to upper 50's and they ran like champs seemingly forever. It's not any single thing but the sum of all parts that makes a good motor. :thumbup:
If you install the 636 I'd LOVE to see what it will do. I think that and the dyno tune will make the biggest difference.
oso2k
Member
Someone on SBN had turbo'd their FZ6. Another rider in the R6 forum also did this. The mods would be similar.
Hollywood416
Junior Member
That is something I want to do eventually but it will be way down the road when this motor starts to show it's age(40k-50k). I feel a good dyno tune is a must anytime you start to mess with internals. It does quite a bit for bolt on mods so start messing with the internals and it can really help. Wish I was still young again with no resposibilities and could throw whole paychecks at stuff like this....lol it would already be done. :thumbup:When I built my race quad I spent almost 10k in 6 months building it from ground up. Heck I'd just like to have half the money back I spent blindly on cars, trucks bikes and such I could build 2 or 3 awesome bikes. :rockon:
The dyno tune works wonders on the Fizzer, it really helps with the poor throttle response, much more mid-range and a bit more top-end.
I know what you mean, it I had all of my mod $$$ back I'd be millionaire!
Oh well.
not to rain on your parade.. but doing all those mods would not give you 25-33 hp... there is a huge misconception about adding mods and what they will produce.. there was a great writeup about this somewhere, but i forget where i had seen it .. anyways..
honestly with these mods, i would guess that the power you would get would be more along the lines of 10-15 hp peak... you cant just add up all the max's and arive at the number, it doesnt work liek that, due to all those mods work in conjunction together. either way though, your likly to dump a whole lot of money into a motor that would have been better spent on a new bike.. and besides, no one here really rides right on the peak of hp.. so really, the money would be better spent on a bike that makes more low end tourqe.. my 2 cents
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Hollywood416
Junior Member
Like I said before everyone is welcome to their $.02. By that train of thought Mod_street drag bikes would be making basically stock HP not nocking over 200HP. Go to your local drag strip and see what large portion of drag bikes are there, usually it's old Kawasaki litre bikes that came stock with 130hp at best and most of the ones I have seen are now upper 180's to over 200 NA granted most of them are now 1300-1500cc but it all works the same. You can get near 10 with just the bolt ons and a good Dynotune. You don't just add up all the Max but you can judge what each one will add working together once you've actually done it a few times. Your right though they do all work in conjunction with each other and in my real life experience building engines like these the sum of all is better than any single mod. It's not about riding on the peak of horsepower it will increase your power all through the RPM range and the torque you will gain can be amazing which mostly would come from the 636 the others wouldn't do a lot for it. Honestly there is very little good info on the net about real life engine building...there's a lot of people out there doing right ups and giving info based off theoretical ideas and in the real world it doesn't mean squat. :thumbup:
edited becasue my 1st came off sounding chitty and didn't want it to.
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use puncutation... yes, i have built up a few engines in my day and do know a bit about applying theory to practical aplications.. its nice to meet someone else who actually knows what they are talking about as well... sucks dealing with "kids" who know theory or wrong theory and no practical realworld applications...
as for not using just hte peak HP numbers.. i agree.. it would be better to work on the whole rpm range them just the top.. i would say that if someone wanted to really beef up and build a great motor, your going to do lots of dyno tunes.. i would do the head port and polish first.. (along with all the bolt on mods obviously).. then dyno tune and try to get a good even setup across the rpm.. before i would spend the money on a big bore kit, i would do this first and see what you get.. a good setup like that could net you 20hp without having to do the bigboar kit.. depends on how much power/ how reliable your looking to go to.. :thumbup:
Hollywood416
Junior Member
Since you read and replied prior to me editing I am glad you didn't take it wrong. I thought 1st message sounded to harsh it's still to early for me after being up with our newborn all night...lmao.
If you'll look back up the order I posted everything in was pretty much in order of being done unintentional but guess that just the way my brain functions on this stuff. My whole focus would be to get consistant power from about 7k up without losing any below that you should also gain some below that but when your actually twisting on it that's where it is needed most. The other stuff really should be 100% reliable and the BB might actually be a overkill once the other stuff is done but might end up being needed to help bring the low end back inline. If it was overkill then just a set of HC pistons and a mild maintenance bore would probably be best when they are needed. IMHO the biggest hurt to reliabilty is the bigger bores the bigger they get the thinner the walls, more heat they produce, quicker the rings wear out and under enough stress will eventually crack a cylinder.
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