Bolt dimension?

Hi.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the Hex bolt in the frame right above the cylinders? It is an FZ6S european 2008 model.

There is an engine guard mounted, and I need to remove it to mount Powerbronze lower fairings. Therefore I need to get hold of original bolts, since the ones that are there now is too long.

Also, what torque should they be tightened to? And do i need to support anything while removing them, or can I just pull one out and put in a shorter one?

Any responds are appreciated.


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Try looking the bike up on Bikebandit.com, I don't think they have the torque spec but they might have the bolt at least.

Thanks for the tip. I've ordered the original bolts. I'll figure out the torque when I get them.

If you post a pic and point to the bolt, we can look up the spec's. If its the engine to frame bolts, 40 FT Lbs, DRY THREADS... And no, you don't have to support anything, just do one bolt at a time...



If you PM with an e-mail address, I can e-mail a shop manual (PDF). PLEASE mention in the header 08 FZ manual

The one in the middle here is the one. This will be removed and replaced with the original bolt.

View attachment 43819

KydeX said:

The one in the middle here is the one. This will be removed and replaced with the original bolt.

View attachment 43819

Click to expand...

The Engine mounting bolt is the one holding the engine guard in place. It is a M10 bolt torqued at
55 Nm. The Haynes manual doe's not specify the bolt length.
Would you be interested in selling that engine guard?
I live in Ireland and can Paypal or do direct transfer to your account.

Neil

KydeX said:

The one in the middle here is the one. This will be removed and replaced with the original bolt.

View attachment 43819

Click to expand...

You have e-mail with a large attachment, enjoy!

I might sell it to you, but I gotta make sure I can take it off and see that the condition on it is ok. I'll get back to you on that. Thx for the info anyway. The length is not important anymore since I will be getting the original bolts now.

KydeX said:

I might sell it to you, but I gotta make sure I can take it off and see that the condition on it is ok. I'll get back to you on that. Thx for the info anyway. The length is not important anymore since I will be getting the original bolts now.

Click to expand...

That for that,
If your not able to sell it, can you tell me where you got it from?

Neil

Nelly said:

That for that,
If your not able to sell it, can you tell me where you got it from?

Neil

Click to expand...

It looks well designed and more protection than just a bobbin..

Can you post a full picture of the other side engine gaurd as well?

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

It looks well designed and more protection than just a bobbin..

Can you post a full picture of the other side engine gaurd as well?

Click to expand...

I've just purchased some from Poland for €114 inc postage bargain [Shh don't tell the missus].

They look good, I have been thinking about this type of protection for a while now. Especially as I will have to commute on the bike in the frozen months of winter.
The limitation of them is that you need to remove the bars to get to the oil filter. As that is only an annual event it's an acceptable trade off for me.

Neil

Bizarre? I can't find the FZ6 bars there anymore. Perhaps they only had one to sell. The transaction has gone through so it looks OK.
ENGINE GUARD HEED CRASH BARS YAMAHA FZ1 FAZER (2006-2012) FZ8 FAZER (2010 -2012) | eBay

Neil

Nelly said:

I've just purchased some from Poland for €114 inc postage bargain [Shh don't tell the missus].

They look good, I have been thinking about this type of protection for a while now. Especially as I will have to commute on the bike in the frozen months of winter.
The limitation of them is thank you need to remove the bars to get to the oil filter. As that is only an annual event it's an acceptable trade off for me.

Neil

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Damn, removing the filter isn't a problem however I have slightly larger K&P filter( Stainless Steel Cleanable and Reusable Oil Filters for your Motorcycle and ATV ), (NOT K&N) oil filter. The below pic is that on my old FJR, don't have a pic on the FZ. Its likely it won't fit. If you have any demensions how far away from the oil filter your running would be appreciated... I have the old filter (K&N and can compare the difference to the K&P)

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

Damn, removing the filter isn't a problem however I have slightly larger K&P filter( Stainless Steel Cleanable and Reusable Oil Filters for your Motorcycle and ATV ), (NOT K&N) oil filter. The below pic is that on my old FJR, don't have a pic on the FZ. Its likely it won'd fit. If you have any demensions how far away from the oil filter your running would be appreciated... I have the old filter (K&N and can compare the difference to the K&P)

Click to expand...

As soon as they arrive I will post up many pictures from my terrible phone.

Cheers
Neil

Aaahh, started to dismantle the engine guard today and on the first side this happened...

View attachment 44043

The bolt broke just outside the engine block. Gaaah. Authorized shop next, I guess. Probably means an expensive repair and weeks with no bike. I don't have the guts to remove the other side now.

I am so sad right now

KydeX said:

Aaahh, started to dismantle the engine guard today and on the first side this happened...

View attachment 44043

The bolt broke just outside the engine block. Gaaah. Authorized shop next, I guess. Probably means an expensive repair and weeks with no bike. I don't have the guts to remove the other side now.

I am so sad right now

Click to expand...

Better it broke off than stripped the aluminum engine block!! If you remove the rest of that side guard, you may have enough bolt sticking out to grab with a vise grip.

A drill, a good sized "easy out" and some luck or a good machinist should be able to get it out without too much fuss..

If you start removing other bolts, especially bolts into aluminum and they stick, DO NOT FORCE THEM. They chemically bond(seize) to each other.

Spray lots of penetrating oil on the parts and let them sit some. A small hand held impact driver, gently tapped initially loosening and then tightening (repeat if necessary) should be enough to loosen the grip without hurting anything... Sometimes just striking the bolt head will help break loose the corrosion.

If its still seized, try applying some heat to the area around the bolt with a heat gun. If the bolt is pretty small, the head of a very hot soldering gun should help...

Thx for the tips. Probably used too much force on it. I have removed the rest of the guard on that side. Unfortunately there is only a couple of millimeters sticking out of the engine block, and that is inside the bike fram which is probably a cm deep.

Also, I am afraid that it might have bonded like you suggest. I fear the only option is to try and drill it out, which I am a bit scared to try. Might end up having to replace the engine block...

One possibly stupid question: is it possible to ride the bike without this one bolt?

KydeX said:

Thx for the tips. Probably used too much force on it. I have removed the rest of the guard on that side. Unfortunately there is only a couple of millimeters sticking out of the engine block, and that is inside the bike fram which is probably a cm deep.

Also, I am afraid that it might have bonded like you suggest. I fear the only option is to try and drill it out, which I am a bit scared to try. Might end up having to replace the engine block...

One possibly stupid question: is it possible to ride the bike without this one bolt?

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This bolt has broken or stripped on others bikes, yes its a PIA to fix, but fixable.

New cases, labor, probably more than you paid for the bike and it isn't necessary.

If your not comfy using an "Easy out", or never used one, I wouldn't be learning on this one, especially with it "set into the frame".

Most any competant machine shop can remove it without a problem. (tops an hour labor). Very worst scenerio, drill the bolt to the edges and pull the actual thread (whats left of the bolt) out of the hole. Clean up the threads with a tap.. This takes a lot of patience, some tools and some luck as the hole needs to be absolutly DEAD CENTER.

They do make thread repair kits but so far, your threads are fine, you just have a bolt in the way.

As for riding it the way it is, NO, DO NOT RIDE it. The frame and engine are structurally designed, when bolted together to act TOGETHER as the frame... You'd be stressing the frame a bunch and you'll likely get a fair amount of NEW vibration thru the seat and bars...Will the engine fall out, no but you will be stressing the frame elsewhere as the other bolts have to now support more weight as this broken bolt holds no weight at this time..

Hope this helps... Scott

Thx again. I used to work as a mechanic fixing pumps, and I've seen a lot of stuck bolts in aluminum parts. That's the reason I am hesitant to try and fix this myself, because I know how wrong it can go...

I am Norwegian, so I am not sure what an "easy out" is. I'm guessing it's the kind of tool where you first drill a hole in the bolt and then screw the tool in counter clockwise to release the bolt?

Anyway, i'll probably leave it to the yamaha dealer workshop to avoid me doing more damage to it.

That's an easy out .. The bold it fairly big center a punch and make a smell indent so you can drill centered then start with a small drill bit work your way up to the size for the easy out or bolt extractor shouldn't be to hard. The only thing I'd be worried about is not centering the whole and soaking the bolt with Bp blaster or Wd 40 before tap it with something soft to hopefully break up the ( ugh can't think of the word) reason its stuck. I'd use a brass drift. Just take your time one thing at a time shouldn't take to long